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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’m shopping for two watches to add to my collection (which currently consists of a Rolex Deep Sea 40 mm in steel with black dial and a GO Seventies Chronograph 40 mm in steel with silver dial). The first watch I'd like to buy is a formal dress watch with a white or silver dial and black alligator strap. The second is a slightly dressier than business casual watch with brown strap. Both must have deployant clasps.

I’m in my mid-40’s and don’t want to look like an old man but do want to appear professional and mature.

I have a 7 inch (17.78 cm) fairly flat wrist. The Rolex I own fits nicely. The GO is tall but doesn’t look too big on my wrist, but barely. I wouldn’t go any larger than 40 mm and no smaller than 38 mm. The watch needs to fit under a dress shirt sleeve. Two watches are necessary because I don't want to have to switch watch straps all the time to match my shoes (and I do want the strap to come close to the color of my shoes). I would like to keep the spend around $15k for both.

In my line of work a nice watch is good, but I shouldn’t wear anything too showy. I will have a three watch rotation daily (Rolex plus the two new watches; the GO I wear casually on the weekends given its size).

My thoughts thus far:

Brown strap options I’ve identified so far:
--GO Panoreserve (the old hand wind model with silver dial and black hands, standard black strap switched out to GO brown strap, 40 mm, ~$6,200); I love this watch and the asymmetry of the dial. This is my first choice but it wears tall and I am concerned it will catch on my dress shirt sleeve.
--Grand Seiko SBGJ217 (automatic, 39.5 mm, ~$5,850); I like this watch as well but is it too much of an old man/boring watch?
--IWC Portofino (automatic, ~$4,000, 40 mm, silver dial and hands, strap changed out to brown); while I used to really like IWC's after seeing some others I'm underwhelmed by the watch; price is really good, however, and it's not too showy; might be able to buy a Reverso if I got this one.
--JLC Master Grand Ultra Thin (~$5,700, automatic, 40 mm); my wife has a thin JLC alligator strap watch and it hasn’t held up well, so I’m a little hesitant to buy due to durability questions.
--JLC Master Ultra Thin Reserve de Marche (~$6,800, automatic, 39 mm); same question about this watch as above.
--JLC Reverso Large Small Seconds (~$5,000, manual wind); anyone know how the large fits flat 7 inch wrist?

White/silver dial with black strap options I’ve identified so far
--Blancpain Villeret Ultra Slim Automatic White Dial (40 mm, automatic, price on gray market ~$7,500)
--one question I have: are hand wind Blancpain models (which cost less and may open up the opportunity to add a third watch) less durable over the long run because of the mechanical strain of being wound every day or every couple days?
--I’m pretty committed to one form or another of the Villeret but would entertain other interesting suggestions.

Help me to stop perseverating on this! Let me know your thoughts!
 

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Well I wouldn't categorize any of those as "brown strap options", or black, simply because they'd also look great on a black strap. Pick two watches you like and then just leave the straps you want on them. I'd also think you could easily go a bit bigger than 40mm if you've got a 7" wrist, but bigger might also mean thicker, so maybe doesn't apply here.

Anyway, among the watches you noted, based on your comments, I'd suggest the Blancpain, and the MUT Reserve de Marche. I like the GS most, but it's a bit thick.

And no, manual wind watches don't have any durability issues from winding. Why would they be worse than autos? Autos are constantly getting wound. As long as you don't abuse them, they're fine.

Overall, personally, I think you're thinking too much about durability and whether any of these is good for your age. To 99.9999% of the people, all these watches are about the same. None scream 20 year old or 70 year old, and any would look fine with different straps and different clothing. (And I'm the same age you are.) Just buy the two you like best.
 

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MDnoobie, that you?
"Perseveration according to psychology, psychiatry, and speech-language pathology, is the repetition of a particular response (such as a word, phrase, or gesture) regardless of the absence or cessation of a stimulus. It is usually caused by a brain injury or other organic disorder. "
 

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Removed... misread
 

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Well, he/she/they said perceverating, not perseverating. Maybe it's the same, minus the brain injury.

Anyways, less than ten thousands bucks (apologies if I misread that), silver dial, black strap, not too thick, somewhat formal but not too much, has a Rolex diver and a Glashütte: how about an IWC Portugieser Chrono? I like mine a lot, hate (ok, hate is a strong word; dislike) the black strap though, but if that is what you want, I'd recommend the 371604 on its alligator strap. It is a really nice watch now that they put the home made movement inside.
 

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I would also look at the GO Panograph or a Nomos as an option. These are the three GO’s in my rotation.
15342980
 

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I’d look at the IWC Portugese Auto in 40mm. $7,500 at retail, but I suspect there’s some room in that number. Pics from Hodinkee.
513CCE6E-D55E-4998-AF54-A8CBDA91CABF.jpeg
 

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Well, he/she/they said perceverating, not perseverating. Maybe it's the same, minus the brain injury.
He used perceverating in the thread title, and perseverating in the post. From what I can tell, perceverating isn't a word, and perseverating doesn't make sense in the context that he used it.

So who knows?
 

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MDnoobie, that you?
"Perseveration according to psychology, psychiatry, and speech-language pathology, is the repetition of a particular response (such as a word, phrase, or gesture) regardless of the absence or cessation of a stimulus. It is usually caused by a brain injury or other organic disorder. "
15343317
 

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He used perceverating in the thread title, and perseverating in the post. From what I can tell, perceverating isn't a word, and perseverating doesn't make sense in the context that he used it.

So who knows?
More proof it might be Noob then...
 
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It's funny how many folks suspected MDnoobie right off that bat, it was my first thought too when I saw the thread title ;p
 

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Well, I’m just a good ol’ boy who ain’t payin’ much nevermind to them fancy words or who’s who at this here party....so I’m gonna toss my usual recommendation into the campfire and see how she burns....

If ya’ likes the IWC, have a peek at the UN Classico line. Personally, the white dial 40mm version Imma post some pics of is my all-time favorite in the dress-watch genre. In person, it has an undeniable flair/panache that I found somewhat lacking in the IWC....and the overal aesthetic is absolutely stunning.

Pics don’t do it justice, something about the cut of them indices catches the light just right. Kinda reminds me of Sarah Jean at the county fair last year, when she got all slicked up with baby oil to wrestle Pepe the Pig. Girl’s curves shined like the stars....and couldn’t no man there take his eyes off them twinklin’ lines. A true sight to behold, but not one you’d ever expect to see if ya’ just bumped in to her sligin’ pancakes at the Waffle House out there off I-75.

Anyway, maybe have a look-see at the UN just for kicks and giggles. Damn near perfect for them trips to the city, far as this ol’ country boy is concerned....


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Pick a watch you like rather than a strap. At the price level that you are considering the cost of a strap change is small beans.
 

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I got lost. Too many big words.....
 
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