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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is an evil, rabbit hole place that leads me into temptation. ;-)

Apparently, I've always been a watch fan, but I didn't know how dangerous that was until I found this place. I've been browsing and looking at pictures, and I think what I want is coalescing.

Begin stream of consciousness: I like dials that aren't too busy, so chronos are out. I like watches that only do what I'll use. I like the aesthetic of field, pilot, and military watches. I'm pretty sure I like black dials. I like hands with some weight and pointed on the end. I don't like sticks or the blocky, square ones on divers. I do like the bezels on divers because I actually use them. Don't hate me, but I have an Invicta that I bought years ago because I liked the look. It's been serviceable and reliable, but heavy. I like a date window. I like a day window, but I can live without it. I have a Bambino that's 40.5 mm. I think that's probably my upper limit, though I could try a larger one on in person to see how it wore. 7.25" wrist. I have quartz, and the Bambino. I find I like synchronizing watches, and I like every time telling device in site (clocks, computer, watch) to say the same thing. So, I may want quartz, but a fairly reliable mechanical is also an option. I think for now, I'd like to stay under $700, but $500 would be better. If a bezel doesn't operate, I'd rather not have it. I like seconds to be marked on the dial - ticks, railroad tracks, etc. - visible but not overwhelming.

What do I think I want?
- 38-40mm
- operable bezel with minutes, uni- or bi-directional, not as wide as a diver bezel
- black dial, though if it looked good enough, I might be persuaded otherwise
- Arabic numberals
- field/military/pilot aesthetic
- steel case, not polished
- 100 m water resistance, min
- quartz or ~+/- 30 seconds per day mechanical
- >= $700, >=$500 preferred

I have this Citizen (n.b. all photos scrounged from the internet):
CitizenEco.jpg
I bought it based on a review in the forum. I like it a lot, but it's not perfect.
What I like: the aesthetic, the hands, red second hand, accuracy, case
What I don't like: no bezel, minute hand doesn't touch second markers, just a tad small at 37mm

I saw this Damasko DA 36:
DA-36.jpg
What I like: Aesthetic, hands (better than Citizen), minute hand touches minutes, the "cross hairs" on the dial, case
What I don't like: no bezel, placement of day/date window, price

I saw this Victorinox AirBoss:
AirBoss24.jpg
What I like: Aesthetic, placement of date window, case, bezel, 24-hr markings
What I don't like: bezel doesn't operate, hands aren't as good as the Damasko, I think it's 42mm, but can't remember

So, does my perfect watch exist? Does anyone have suggestions that tick most of my boxes?

This is my first thread start, so you must tell me I sound like an idiot, at least make the insults funny. :-d

Edited to add: I like the Hamilton Khaki Field looks, too, but no bezel, and sometimes too large.
 

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Have you looked at the Seiko SARG005 or 007 for your requirements? I have the 005 (cream dial) and just sold the 007 (black dial) on eBay for $464. It didn’t have the original strap or paperwork and it had a few very minor imperfections. A full kit version will be more, but less than $700.

They’ve got the 6R15 movement (very serviceable and robust and mine is consistent at -7 seconds per day), a sapphire crystal and an internal compass bezel. Of course, it does make life a little harder when timing things (no numbers on bezel), but it is true to the field watch look. Pics:

SARG007 from interwebs:


My SARG007 on a black Leather strap:


Good luck!


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How about this:

39mm
Swiss Ronda 715 quartz movement
Black Dial with White Indices
Rotating 60-Minute bezel
Date window at 4 o'clock
316-L surgical stainless steel case with two-piece end pieces
Sapphire crystal
Signed screw-down crown and case-back
Signed stainless steel bracelet with solid links and pins
200 meters water resistance
Super Luminova on hands and indices
2 year warranty

For $169.00 bucks!

https://www.bernhardtwatch.com/collections/chronograph-and-field/products/field-diver-black
 

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Field watches by definition don't usually have timing bezels. Pilot watches *might* but then budget gets to be an issue.

If your size preferences are accurate, you don't want the Victorinox Airboss unless you can see one first. It's not the 42mm diameter, it's the 51mm lug to lug that might be an issue for you. It has a ton of upsides (lume is fantastic unlike many other VSA watches and the dial has a ton of depth) and it's one of my favorite watches, but it's going to be an outlier on the large side. I would say-- with all of these-- if you can see them in person or try them on first, all the better. Maybe something slightly smaller or larger might fit great and maybe something in your size range is just annoying in some other way.

Random suggestions: The Glycine Combat Sub splits the difference between a dive watch and field watch. A 42mm diver will wear small so it may be a good option. One inexpensive example - https://www.jomashop.com/glycine-watch-gl0090.html

If you move up the pricing ladder to brands like Sinn (104) and Fortis (Cosmonautis but also their regular pilot series) and you'll get pretty much exactly what you want:

https://www.jomashop.com/fortis-watch-647-10-11-l01.html

(for one example right inside your budget.)
 

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And true military watch is G-Shock!
At your budget you can get Marathon.
Despite simplicity it also "true" army watch.
I suggest to ask on military/pilot watches forum.
 

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Field:

Bertucci

Marathon (issued to some militaries, field and divers)

Smith & Bradley / DEFI

G-Shock, though good luck figuring all that crap out.

Pilot:

Trintec



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Nicely condensed list of requirements, I only respond since Im in the same boat, word for word except with the requirement of a screw down crown.

Even though it’s way out of your (and mine) budget, might I suggest the DA42? I put that out there since that’s the solution I’ve come down to..... I just can’t afford it. :p


 

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Have you considered the Seiko SARB017 Alpinist? Its one I’m struggling not to pull the trigger on myself, everyone on here who has one claims no photo can do it justice.

38mm
Sapphire Crystal
Inner rotating bezel
Very reliable movement, would destroy +/-30 a day
Sunburst green dial, gold hands
Discontinued, but still widely available new for around $400
Made for Japanese Alpinists, very robust






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Agreed. 17 years active duty here and this has been my best “military” watch (pic from the interwebs):



I keep trying to find a better watch, but this is exactly what works: cheap ($40), rugged, replaceable, and easy access to second time zone (this is my biggest complaint about my G-shock: too many button pushes to get to Zulu and back to local).

To keep it on topic though: the SARB017 is great, but I much prefer the SARG series (I do have both, and have never worn the Alpinist because it’s not as good as the SARG). Just my opinion, and probably not shared by most.

6 years a soldier in the U.S. Army and I can say that I saw 10 Timex Iron Man watches for every 1 G-Shock.

Just say'n.



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Nicely condensed list of requirements, I only respond since Im in the same boat, word for word except with the requirement of a screw down crown.

Even though it’s way out of your (and mine) budget, might I suggest the DA42? I put that out there since that’s the solution I’ve come down to..... I just can’t afford it. :p


Hi. Same for me, except it's the DA43 (the white dial & SS case). Came down to a choice between that and the Sinn 104 St Sa I W. Best price I could find on a new Damasko is approx 1200 Euro, so like you say, it's a way over budget. Will try and save up for one.

Damasko-DA43.jpg Sinn-104.jpg

Cheers
 

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Hi Weetabix, welcome to the forum!

Have you looked at Zeno? This diver in particular sounds like you might like it: https://www.zeno-watch.ch/product/navy-diver-retro/

- 40mm
- rotating bezel
- a diver, but with lovely, pointy hands (I hate the usual diver hands as well!)
- 50 ATM water resistance

Now that I think about it, I actually like it a lot myself...
(edited for too-large-picture)
 

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This is an evil, rabbit hole place that leads me into temptation. ;-)

Apparently, I've always been a watch fan, but I didn't know how dangerous that was until I found this place. I've been browsing and looking at pictures, and I think what I want is coalescing.

Begin stream of consciousness: I like dials that aren't too busy, so chronos are out. I like watches that only do what I'll use. I like the aesthetic of field, pilot, and military watches. I'm pretty sure I like black dials. I like hands with some weight and pointed on the end. I don't like sticks or the blocky, square ones on divers. I do like the bezels on divers because I actually use them. Don't hate me, but I have an Invicta that I bought years ago because I liked the look. It's been serviceable and reliable, but heavy. I like a date window. I like a day window, but I can live without it. I have a Bambino that's 40.5 mm. I think that's probably my upper limit, though I could try a larger one on in person to see how it wore. 7.25" wrist. I have quartz, and the Bambino. I find I like synchronizing watches, and I like every time telling device in site (clocks, computer, watch) to say the same thing. So, I may want quartz, but a fairly reliable mechanical is also an option. I think for now, I'd like to stay under $700, but $500 would be better. If a bezel doesn't operate, I'd rather not have it. I like seconds to be marked on the dial - ticks, railroad tracks, etc. - visible but not overwhelming.

What do I think I want?
- 38-40mm
- operable bezel with minutes, uni- or bi-directional, not as wide as a diver bezel
- black dial, though if it looked good enough, I might be persuaded otherwise
- Arabic numberals
- field/military/pilot aesthetic
- steel case, not polished
- 100 m water resistance, min
- quartz or ~+/- 30 seconds per day mechanical
- >= $700, >=$500 preferred

I have this Citizen (n.b. all photos scrounged from the internet):

I bought it based on a review in the forum. I like it a lot, but it's not perfect.
What I like: the aesthetic, the hands, red second hand, accuracy, case
What I don't like: no bezel, minute hand doesn't touch second markers, just a tad small at 37mm

I saw this Damasko DA 36:

What I like: Aesthetic, hands (better than Citizen), minute hand touches minutes, the "cross hairs" on the dial, case
What I don't like: no bezel, placement of day/date window, price

I saw this Victorinox AirBoss:

What I like: Aesthetic, placement of date window, case, bezel, 24-hr markings
What I don't like: bezel doesn't operate, hands aren't as good as the Damasko, I think it's 42mm, but can't remember

So, does my perfect watch exist? Does anyone have suggestions that tick most of my boxes?

This is my first thread start, so you must tell me I sound like an idiot, at least make the insults funny. :-d

Edited to add: I like the Hamilton Khaki Field looks, too, but no bezel, and sometimes too large.
Your perfect watch exists, it's called the Boldr Expedition. It's produced from a successful microbrand from Singapore and it ticks all the boxes you mentioned, it's just 1mm bigger:

- 38-40mm >> 41mm
- operable bezel with minutes, uni- or bi-directional, not as wide as a diver bezel >> bidirectional inner rotating bezel with minutes and compass
- black dial, though if it looked good enough, I might be persuaded otherwise >> available in black, grey, white or blue
- Arabic numberals >> check
- field/military/pilot aesthetic >> definitely a field / military watch
- steel case, not polished >> steel case, bead-blasted
- 100 m water resistance, min >> 200m WR
- quartz or ~+/- 30 seconds per day mechanical >> very accurate and reliable mechanical, swiss Sellita SW-200
- >= $700, >=$500 preferred >> costs exactly 499$

Also other stuff you mentioned: placement of date window is at 4:30, very subtle; hands with some weight and pointed at the end; 24hr markings; minute hand touches minute markings; seconds hand in a different colour, in this case orange.

Based on what you mentioned I don't think there could be a better watch for you. I have the blue version (Everest) and I love it, it has become my favorite weekend watch.

Here a few variations of the model:

Black dial, normal bead-blasted case
ef96c7f3e2194e9a91f04f34dc6c33c4.jpg
621e7120bf896e64d27adee74caaf48d.jpg
011daac63d2d6b333c546b9cd22aca3b.jpg
White and Blue dial, bead-blasted case
wp-boldr-expedition1.jpg
Grey Dial, bead-blasted case
img_6383.jpg
 
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