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Hi all!

I hope this post provides something of interest to you lovers of haute-horology! Something that has become my new obsession in watchmaking is watch hands, specifically in high-end watches - so I thought I'd collate some pictures and share some of the most impressive findings!

Lets start with Roger W. Smith styled hands. Known for being the successor to watchmaker George Daniels, R. W. Smith shares the same "handmade" ethos towards watchmaking as his master. Take a look!

Roger-Smith-GREAT-Britain-watch-131.jpg

Above, you can see the absolutely amazing level of detail on these hands. Keep in mind that these hands are handmade and finished without the aide of modern manufacturing methods. Each groove and chamfer is hand polished and then each hand is heat-blued uniformly as possible. Smith has a video series on his YouTube channel about finishing a set of hands, 1 hour and 6 minutes long in total, split into 10 videos, which I will link here. It's a good watch if you have the time and will definitely build upon your appreciation for handcrafting within horology!

Next up are the hands of the Laurent Ferrier Galet Microrotor. Laurent Ferrier (the man behind the brand) worked for Patek Philippe on the prototype of the Nautilus.

Laurent-Ferrier-Galet-Micro-Rotor-front-cover.jpg

The spear shaped style of the hour hand and the fluid curvature of the minute hand are impressively well executed here. Another point to note is the way that the hands blend with the design language of the rest of the watch so well; this can be seen in the hour markers shaped similarly to the spearhead of the hour hands.

And here we have the Urban Jurgensen 1140. Urban Jurgensen was an influential Danish watchmaker from the late 1700's to early 1800's, this modern brand is a revival of the Jurgensen name, aesthetic and expertise.

Urban-Jurgensen-1140RG-Brown-Dial-7.jpg

These hands are especially impressive due to the multi-material composition of each piece, with what appears to be gold and blued steel. Oh, and of course, the artfully formed hole in the hour hand. Each bevel and edge is finished to an immaculate degree!

Finally, we have the L.U.C. Chopard Flying T Twin. Louis Ulysse Chopard was a Swiss watchmaker back in the mid-1800's when Swiss watchmaking was widely considered to be second-grade watchmaking done by farmers in their downtime.

Chopard-L.U.C-Flying-T-Twin-Review-9.jpg

Loud? Perhaps. Garish? Maybe. Complex, pristine finishing? Absolutely! Whilst the aesthetics of the dial and hands may raise discussion and contention amongst enthusiasts, to exclaim that these hands were a technical masterclass in micro-crafts would raise no controversy. This seems to be a much more advanced iteration of the widely applied dauphine-style hands that you can find on many watches today.

Those are just some of the most interesting hands that I have found. Please feel free to enable my odd fixation of watch hands by posting nice images of some interesting and well crafted watch hands below!


Hope you enjoyed the read!

 

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We can always slide back to Breguet; KV and UJ are both doing a variant on Breguet hands.

Moser has a fairly unique take on the leaf shape.

Moritz Grossman does some stunning, slender, graceful hands:

Moritz_Grossmann_Benu_Benu37_Slide.jpg
 

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We can always slide back to Breguet; KV and UJ are both doing a variant on Breguet hands.

Moser has a fairly unique take on the leaf shape.

Moritz Grossman does some stunning, slender, graceful hands:

View attachment 14712269
Moritz Grossmann does make wonderful hands, I had the opportunity to speak with the founder, Christine Hutter, and she has a wonderful passion for her craft.
 

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is lume just not a thing in high end hand watch making?
It seems to be true for many brands, including Grand Seiko. Maybe because lume paint is usually the first element to deteriorate on a watch.
 
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The depth on those RW Smith hands is flat out impressive. Always thought those Urban Jurgensen hands were striking. On a personal level, I’ve enjoyed the keystone hands on my RGM.
F4948BF4-38EB-4A7F-8BDA-D5846C551250.jpeg
I also have also liked the hands on Peter Speake Marin watches.
96B8614D-8415-40A5-9391-3BF013980A19.jpeg
 

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is lume just not a thing in high end hand watch making?
It's pretty fair to say that most high-end watches are dress watches. There's some exceptions, but mostly true, I think. By and large...no, you're not gonna see lume on a dress watch, particularly at the upper end as most of these are.

Also, the more composition is in a dial, the more likely lume is gonna look awful. Can you imagine omeglycine's pictured KV with lume? Ewwwwww....
 

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That Smith piece is fantastic!
Really love the fact that they're hand made...pun intended!


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