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Horofix Spring Bar Tweezers - Did Not Disappoint!

16K views 36 replies 24 participants last post by  gangrel  
#1 · (Edited)
If you've been on the fence about the Horofix tweezers, hop on down! I, too, was on the fence for a long time, having told myself the $10 plier I bought from AliExpress was basically the same thing. They are night and day different. I have not tried the considerably more pricey Bergeon 7825 that these were modeled after, but for my need and given the positive experience I've had, I no longer feel the need to. The Horofix also comes with an extra set of tips, which also has two ends - so in essence 4 sets - and a tool to swap them. To secure a similar package with the Bergeon you're looking at ~$390 (handle + 3 backup sets of tips; vs. ~$90 with the Horofix). Removing the bracelet on the Pelagos proved to be a manageable affair, though still requiring some finessing on my part/technique, which otherwise would've been a total mess with a normal spring bar tool. It already paid for itself in my book.
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#7 ·
They're polyimide tape; specifically this, 8mm 100FT Kapton Polyimide Tape Adhesive High Temperature Heat Resistant USA 33M | eBay. I was a tad lazy to, but best practice would be to first separate the bracelet (however you want, e.g. unscrew a link, detach link from clasp if possible, etc.), so that they lay flat and out to each side. I'm right-handed and I find it's easiest for me, using my right-hand, to compress the spring bar that's on my right and hold it still, then use my left hand to pull the watch away to the left. I then rotate the watch 180 degrees and repeat with the other spring bar. If that makes sense. Depending on how you hold the tool you may find it's easier with a curved tip so you can approach it from an angle, rather than having to be straight on top of it, Replacement Curved Ergonomic Forks for Horofix Spring Bar Tweezers. Reinstalling is a bit different, and I find it easiest to "drop in" the endlinks, so this is where precise taping really comes into play. I drop it in vertically, such that a part of the endlink is in and the spring bar is resting on the tape, I then compress the bar and guide it down. For reinstallation I find it easier to do the opposite side, i.e. the side that's to my left, then rotate the watch 180 degrees and repeat. Again, if that makes any sense.

Thanks for the tip. I've been agonizing over this exact decision for the last month. The Amazon special I have doesn't cut it most of the time and I have a hard time convincing myself the Bergeon is worth the price for my use case. I think I'll use a little of my Christmas money to grab a pair.
Sounds like the same dilemma I was in. The Horofix is a terrific compromise.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the tip. I've been agonizing over this exact decision for the last month. The Amazon special I have doesn't cut it most of the time and I have a hard time convincing myself the Bergeon is worth the price for my use case. I think I'll use a little of my Christmas money to grab a pair.
 
#5 ·
I used a set on my BB58 bracelet. The watch came away from the swap without a scratch. Wasn't an easy job, but it was much easier with the Horofix tool.
 
#9 · (Edited)
This is good to know. I've thought about getting these after having to take a bracelet off for the first time in a while. I about lost it trying to get it off. I'm normally on leather or perlon straps all the time so I'm not used to the extra heartache.

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#10 ·
This is good to know. I've thought about getting these after having to take a bracelet off for the first time in a while. I about lost it trying to get off. I'm normally on leather or perlon straps all the time so I'm not used to the extra heartache.

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This will save you from so much headache. On certain watches where the endlink fits very tightly, e.g. Rolex and Tudor, there's very little room to wiggle and pry out the spring bars one side at a time, and these come in very handy. But there are guys who say they can remove any bracelet perfectly using a pocket knife, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
 
#12 ·
I second the opinion that they are a great tool. I have somehow managed to misplace mine. I easily spent an hour looking for them the other day and came up blank. I generally store all my watch tools in the same place, so it's bothering me that I can't find them.
 
#13 ·
I must have steady hands and good eyes as I have zero problems removing or replacing spring bars. For installing, I don't use a tool at all.

With that said, the stock spring bar on an SKX is near impossible to remove. If a tool is needed, it's for that mofo.
 
#22 ·
Can't say for certain re: Speedmaster bracelets, but I can say it did not work with my SMP (current gen) bracelet, or at least anywhere near well enough for me to go through with it. Had to resort to the simple Bergeon 6767. Something with the OEM spring bars I reckon.
 
#24 ·
FWIW, I picked these up at a great price from Esslinger over the holiday and have used them precisely zero times. They definitely take practice. Every time I have an opportunity to use them I just end up with the trusty 6767.
 
#37 ·
There was a long period where I shied away from bracelets; they tended to slip, kinda hard to fit, etc. Then I got my Spring Drives...at that level, if I replace the bracelet with a strap, I don't mind too much. But hey...tweak em, get them at the right spot...and things are fine. No notable slippage issue any more. Might be due to other factors, but that's off-point.

So I've gotten several integrated-bracelet sports pieces recently, like the Tissot PRX. Several are Miyota 9xxx based, affordable but quite decent. That means I've had to adjust numerous bracelets. I started with just a junky ol' plastic pin pusher. You know the type...couple bucks, if not even a throw-in in a general "watch repair kit." Serviceable but awkward.

So I took a look for a better one...and found a full metal body pusher, with a height adjustment to align things vertically better. Not expensive at all. Probably Otto Frei as well. It's been a nice addition.

I also bought a spring bar assortment...the spring bars are flimsy. Bars from Esslinger or Otto Frei simply feel more solid.

My point, in relation to this thread: the cheapo stuff you see on eBay very commonly IS cheap. Not always but definitely often enough to simply move away from it. I don't buy lots of stuff from Frei or Esslinger...10 each of a few different spring bar sizes (length and diameter) lasts me quite a while. But I'd rather deal with a company that has a reputation, then some eBay drop-shipper.