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I love this post, I always come here to check...

Some have modern 7S26 crown and stems, be careful. Original is the spring one...
 

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I took it to a shop in Dallas and they said $200. I passed and took it to a mom and pop shop in my girlfriends home town. They cleaned it and found it to be working just fine after they cleaned it. I've been wearing it everyday since. Great watch!
I know this thread is old, but do you dive? If so, did they pressure test it? I contacted a place that pressure tests for free.
 

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I posted this in another thread on here but this one seems to have the most information i have included a bit better photo but it is still a camera phone.
Analog watch Watch Watch accessory Strap Fashion accessory

I have had this watch for a long time now. I received it from a family member who has since past. I had no idea these watches had a " following" and only discovers this page while looking up the serial number because I was courios as to haw old the watch was. I received it in the mid to late 1980's I think 1986 to be precise.


I have read some info on serial numbers and dating. It is a 6039 - 7049 and the serial number starts with 111XXX. so would it be a 1981 ? I have only found two other pics on the web with a strap similar to mine

any info would be of help
 

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There seems to be a recent upsurge in interest in the 6309 (guilty). This guide was invaluable to me and so I think it deserves a recent bump. At the same time I would suggest reading this and this. Digesting these articles a few times will be immensely helpful should you decide to buy a 6309.

A few things to be aware of: on after market (AM) dials, often times the printing is pretty crappy, letters or numbers wrong and/or wrong size; on the earliest 6309s (large case '76-'84-ish) the suwa is centered below and between the 5 and 0 of 150m (the indice, or pointer on the 6 o'clock marker and suwa above it should be exactly centered between the 5 and 0), on the AM dials the suwa is shifted off center slightly to the right; the larger case 6309 dials have a strongly beveled day/date window, none of the AM dials have that. Later 6309s (I believe when the suwa was dropped off the dial and production was shifted to Singapore) the day/date window bevel was lessened but not done away with, so the bevel is another good tell as to authenticity.

I've notice that the words Water and Resist on AM dials appear green, the hands confuse me but, when taken along with the rest of the watch it's often easy to tell original from AM.
For some unknown reason the watches will have an AM bezel insert, unless it was found without one I can't see any reason to change it. The only reason i can see is because the seller is replacing dial, hands and crystal and so changing the bezel makes it at least all look harmonious.

There are watches out there that have a case back that shows a year of manufacture but the dial will be for an earlier or later watch. Those generally I consider to be fraud and avoid, UNLESS the seller clearly states such in the description. There is nothing wrong with buying a watch that has been turned over with AM parts so long as the sell indicates so. My 6309 has a new dial, hand set and bezel (and I think crystal). I knew that going in, the seller listed it as such (a WUS member by the way and I recommend if possible to buy from a wUS member who's been around for a while). I thoroughly enjoy my watch as is but I do have in transit an original (beveled) dial and hands, so when I get around to dropping it off for a thorough service I will have as good and original watch as possible that I *could* take diving (it will have to live its life with me around hydrants, hose streams and my pool, crappy life, huh).

While 6309s are not all that rare (apparently they are common as rocks in Aus and the P.I. because a ****eload come from there) whoever is selling it is still looking to make some money from it. If they've done nothing to it but flip it, a high price tag could be a red flag. So an untouched watch, all original will almost certainly need to be serviced (if it has never been, and it seems most of the original ones haven't) factor in that cost. If you get it done, get it done right, all gaskets, thorough cleaning and oil by a proper watchmaker., you end up with essentially a brand new 6309. So a $500 watch that has never been serviced...consider long and hard because pretty sure getting the work done may add at least 2/3s of that purchase price. So you may have maybe $800 into it. That *might* explain those $800+ 6309s that are out there.

Finally, examine closely the photos. If the photos are crappy email the seller and ask for clear ones. If not included or not good, ask for photos of the movement. Ask, ask, ask. I asked one seller a particular question and never heard back, Red Flag. Emailed a seller for more photos than just the one shown and he promptly emailed me 5 or 6 great photos, awesome. I have emailed 2 different sellers regarding a NUMBER of inconsistencies in the watch each was selling...crickets. No response is to me an automatic FRAUD. And READ thoroughly the descriptions, just because it says 'authentic dial with patina' does NOT mean it's original to the watch you're looking at. If they say original dial, hands, bezel etc then one can (more) safely assume the watch is indeed authentic. Leastwise upon receiving said watch, if it's not as described and all original then you at least have cause to return for refund.

I've set a personal upper limit to buy, if I can't buy for that or less I pass because down the road I will be paying out more for servicing. And be advised that for a lot of sellers, 'service' and or 'cleaning' may not mean what we think it means, or it should mean.

So these are points I've picked up that have helped me make informed decisions. I have also learned to listen to that little voice that says, 'are you sure you want this one' or 'I dunno, something about this one is a bit off' My little voice is pretty observant and way less emotional about these things, so I've learned to listen. Of course, YRMV
 

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Mine was flush or slightly below the surface.
 

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Thanks for the help TicTocTach! I own a few 6309 divers, and some inserts are flush (flat) and some have a raised dimple. Frankly, I like the look of the raised dimple, but I had no idea is this meant it's an original or AM. It sounds like you believe the flat dimples to be original, and I think you must likely be correct. Any other opinions??
 

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Good health to all forum participants and editors of this guide! Recently I became the owner of Seiko 6309-7049 of 1980 of release. In this connection, I am interested in the question for which I can not find a concrete answer. - Which luminescent paint was used to paint markers and hands on the Seiko dials of 1970-1980? From history, I learned that in the period from 1975 to 1990 in the watchmaking industry for marking the dial of a diver's watch radioactive light-mass was used-Tritium. And on such a watch there should be a marking "T", at least at the Swiss watch. Which fluorescent paint was used to mark the dial and hands on the Seiko watch 6309-7049 of 1980?
Sincerely, Andrey L.
 

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Hi,

Thanks for this post, I was looking to buy my first vintage Seiko and I stumbled upon a weird one.
It looks original but it's marked as 6309 - 7290 but with a green dial, the dial actually looks exactly like the 729B (the orange one).
Can anyone help me with this one? It's either a false/franken or I stumbled upon an undocumented one?

Thanks for any help, here are the images: imgur.com/a/h9eKC
 

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Hi,

Thanks for this post, I was looking to buy my first vintage Seiko and I stumbled upon a weird one.
It looks original but it's marked as 6309 - 7290 but with a green dial, the dial actually looks exactly like the 729B (the orange one).
Can anyone help me with this one? It's either a false/franken or I stumbled upon an undocumented one?




Thanks for any help, here are the images: imgur.com/a/h9eKC
Probably an aftermarket dial.
 
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