Very nice Roland, I always wondered how the keyless system worked.
How to reset / repair a Vostok 24xx keyless.
Sometimes, after a watch repair / service or modification, when inserting the winding-stem back into the movements keyless, things can go wrong. When it does, the symptoms are that either the stem doesn't want to go back in, there is a problem with winding the watch or with the setting of the time.
Sadly, if this occurs there is no short-cut or easy-way around to fix the problem.
In this article I try to describe what goes wrong and what needs to be done to correct the situation.
There is no point in trying to describe the problem if all the parts involved are not known and it is not known how they play together.
So, first and introduction to all the parts of the keyless;
![15930384]()
1) Hour-wheel ( part number #255)
2) Cannon pinion (#245)
3) Minute wheel (#260)
4) Setting wheel (#450)
5) Clutch wheel or sliding-clutch (#407)
6) Winding pinion (#410)
7) Setting lever (#443)
8) Winding stem (#401)
9) Clutch-lever spring (#440)
10) Clutch-lever (#435)
11) Setting lever spring (+keyless cover-plate) (#445)
Here is the same picture, but with all the parts in their silhouette;
![15930395]()
To start we take first a few parts under the loupe and than we slowly start to build the keyless system up;
Here are the first parts; the setting wheel (on top), the sliding clutch (in the middle), the winding-pinion (on the bottom) and to the right the clutch-lever;
![15930398]()
The sliding-clutch plays an important role within the keyless system. It only knows two positions and is always in the one or in the other. Either it slides to the bottom and engages with the winding-pinion or it slides to the top and engages with the setting-wheel. The lever which slides the sliding-clutch into the one or into the other position is called the clutch-lever.
As can be seen in the following picture, the sliding-clutch has a groove cut-out in the middle in which the clutch-lever sits, like this;
![15930420]()
Through the middle of the winding-pinion and the sliding-clutch runs the winding stem. Here a picture where these two parts are situated over the winding-stem;
![15930427]()
The winding pinion sits to the left side, against a bevel and on a cylindrical part of the winding stem. The sliding-clutch sits and slides over the square-part of the winding-stem.
It is important to know that the winding pinion has a round-hole in it, whereas the sliding-clutch has a square-hole in it, best to be seen on the next picture;
![15930429]()
This means that the winding-pinion with its round hole and situated over a cylindrical-part of the winding-stem is free to rotate. The sliding-clutch however, with its square hole, positioned over the square part of the winding-stem is not free to rotate, but it is allowed slide. This means that in whichever direction the winding stem is turned, the sliding-clutch will turn with it and when engaged in either the winding-pinion on the bottom or in the setting-wheel on top, it will also transfer any torque which is put onto the winding-stem.
The picture below show how the components are positioned in the movements main-plate;
![15930445]()
On this picture above the sliding clutch sits in the lower position and is engaged into the winding-pinion.
The picture below shows the sliding-clutch in the upper position, engaged into the setting-wheel. (What also (just) can be seen is the permanent engagement of the setting-wheel into the minute-wheel. When the setting-wheel is turned, it turns the minute-wheel which turn turns the cannon-pinion and that's how both hands, the minute- and hour-hand do move when setting the time)
![15930446]()
When we introduce the clutch-lever, it looks like this in the down-position, or more correctly in the winding-position;
![15930449]()
And here in the up-position, or more correctly in the time-setting position;
![15930451]()
We now introduce the clutch-lever spring, which pushes the clutch-lever down and keeps the sliding-clutch engaged into the winding-pinion.
![15930470]()
Next we introduce the setting-lever. It has two studs, 1) on top and number 2) sits below, not visible.
![15930472]()
The number two 2) stud sits on the backside of the setting-lever and engages in a winding-stem groove. The groove is best shown in this repeated picture;
![15930474]()
The way this all works together is that when the winding-stem is pulled (blue arrow), the setting-lever will turn as shown with the yellow arrow. It pushes against the slanted-edge of the clutch-lever and forces the lever upwards. When the clutch-lever moves upward it drags the sliding-clutch with it from the winding-position into the time-setting position.
![15930475]()
With the above setup, when the winding-stem is released, the clutch-lever spring would push the clutch-lever downwards against the setting-lever. The setting-lever would than turn back, the clutch-lever slides down and drags the sliding-clutch slides back onto the winding-pinion, into the winding-position.
To prevent this, we introduce our final part; the setting-lever spring;
![15930484]()
The setting-lever spring has two notches for the setting-lever stud 1), once pulled into one of the two positions, to rest in.
Below is the keyless fully assembled. The picture below is when the winding-stem is pushed in and the keyless is in the winding-position;
![15930486]()
The following picture is when the winding stem is pulled-out and the keyless sits in the time-setting position;
![15930488]()
The next picture to show with arrows how these keyless parts move from the winding position into the time-setting position. The winding-stem is pulled (blue arrow), the setting-lever stud turns to the next notch of the setting-lever spring and pushes the clutch-lever upwards. The clutch-lever moves the sliding clutch from the winding-position into the time-setting position. With the setting-lever stud 1) in the 2nd position, it's spring-tension "locked" and the keyless stays "fixed" in position. When reversing, the setting-lever stud has to overcome the setting-lever spring tension to move back to the fist notch.
![15930500]()
Now we finally get to the part where things can go wrong.
For a better view we strip the setting-lever spring again;
![15930501]()
Above everything is in rest position, this is in the winding position.
The winding stem keeps the winding-pinion and the sliding-clutch in place.
But as soon as the winding-stem is pulled the winding-pinion and the sliding clutch do become slightly "free-floating" or less supported. The winding pinion is pretty much locked up in the movements main-plate and a wheel below it (crown-wheel), but the sliding clutch, even though the clutch-lever sits in its groove, has a bit less support => more movement.
When inserting the winding-stem, the square part of the winding-stem has to find and engage into the square hole of the sliding clutch. This may involve some "wiggling" of the winding-stem and this "wiggling" may be just enough for the clutch-lever to jump out of the sliding-clutch groove. It will look than like this;
![15930515]()
or with the setting-lever spring mounted, it will look like this;
![15930517]()
When this happens we are in deep doodoo !
There is no-way to get the clutch-lever back into the sliding-clutch groove, apart from partially stripping the movement ? ?
The movement has to be taken out of its case, the hands and dial are to be removed and (if it has) the calendar-works partially stripped.
For removal of the hands and dial I like to refer to one of my earlier tutorials: "How to change hands & dial on a Vostok"; How to change hands & dial on a Vostok 24xx
For detailed instructions of how to remove (partially) the calendar works, I like to refer to another earlier tutorial: "How to change a date-wheel on a Vostok 24xx": How to change a date-wheel on a Vostok 24xx
Below the procedure once the dial and hands are removed, in this case the movement has a calendar-work;
![15930574]()
Remove date-indicator guard;
![15930575]()
Remove date-wheel, date-jumper, date-jumper spring, hour-wheel and calendar-wheel;
![15930579]()
Undo the keyless 3x cover-plate / setting lever spring screws. (some movements this plate / spring has only 2x screws)
![15930590]()
Lift plate / setting-lever spring;
![15930594]()
And what you should see is as below; the clutch-lever disengaged from the sliding clutch;
![15930597]()
For support and stability it's time insert the winding-stem;
![15930602]()
While taking pictures, going farwards and backwards, here is were I went wrong with showing how to reset the clutch-lever. I don't have the winding-stem inserted but from now on imagine that the winding-stem have been inserted !
Hold the clutch-lever spring down, just in case it likes to jump while manipulating the clutch-lever back into the sliding-clutch groove.
![15930616]()
Install setting-lever spring / cover-plate. You may have to leave the setting-lever spring resting on top of the setting-lever stud to insert the screws.
![15930620]()
Once the screws are back in, pull or push the setting-lever spring behind the setting-lever stud.
![15930625]()
Test the proper working of the keyless in both positions before reassembling the calendar-works, dial and hands.
With the movement back in it's housing, carefully re-insert the winding stem ?
If it goes wrong again, at least now you know the procedure .......
Suc6 !
EndeavourDK.
P.S.; please let me know if things have to be added / corrected or modified .......
Sadly, if this occurs there is no short-cut or easy-way around to fix the problem.
In this article I try to describe what goes wrong and what needs to be done to correct the situation.
There is no point in trying to describe the problem if all the parts involved are not known and it is not known how they play together.
So, first and introduction to all the parts of the keyless;
1) Hour-wheel ( part number #255)
2) Cannon pinion (#245)
3) Minute wheel (#260)
4) Setting wheel (#450)
5) Clutch wheel or sliding-clutch (#407)
6) Winding pinion (#410)
7) Setting lever (#443)
8) Winding stem (#401)
9) Clutch-lever spring (#440)
10) Clutch-lever (#435)
11) Setting lever spring (+keyless cover-plate) (#445)
Here is the same picture, but with all the parts in their silhouette;
To start we take first a few parts under the loupe and than we slowly start to build the keyless system up;
Here are the first parts; the setting wheel (on top), the sliding clutch (in the middle), the winding-pinion (on the bottom) and to the right the clutch-lever;
The sliding-clutch plays an important role within the keyless system. It only knows two positions and is always in the one or in the other. Either it slides to the bottom and engages with the winding-pinion or it slides to the top and engages with the setting-wheel. The lever which slides the sliding-clutch into the one or into the other position is called the clutch-lever.
As can be seen in the following picture, the sliding-clutch has a groove cut-out in the middle in which the clutch-lever sits, like this;
Through the middle of the winding-pinion and the sliding-clutch runs the winding stem. Here a picture where these two parts are situated over the winding-stem;
The winding pinion sits to the left side, against a bevel and on a cylindrical part of the winding stem. The sliding-clutch sits and slides over the square-part of the winding-stem.
It is important to know that the winding pinion has a round-hole in it, whereas the sliding-clutch has a square-hole in it, best to be seen on the next picture;
This means that the winding-pinion with its round hole and situated over a cylindrical-part of the winding-stem is free to rotate. The sliding-clutch however, with its square hole, positioned over the square part of the winding-stem is not free to rotate, but it is allowed slide. This means that in whichever direction the winding stem is turned, the sliding-clutch will turn with it and when engaged in either the winding-pinion on the bottom or in the setting-wheel on top, it will also transfer any torque which is put onto the winding-stem.
The picture below show how the components are positioned in the movements main-plate;
On this picture above the sliding clutch sits in the lower position and is engaged into the winding-pinion.
The picture below shows the sliding-clutch in the upper position, engaged into the setting-wheel. (What also (just) can be seen is the permanent engagement of the setting-wheel into the minute-wheel. When the setting-wheel is turned, it turns the minute-wheel which turn turns the cannon-pinion and that's how both hands, the minute- and hour-hand do move when setting the time)
When we introduce the clutch-lever, it looks like this in the down-position, or more correctly in the winding-position;
And here in the up-position, or more correctly in the time-setting position;
We now introduce the clutch-lever spring, which pushes the clutch-lever down and keeps the sliding-clutch engaged into the winding-pinion.
Next we introduce the setting-lever. It has two studs, 1) on top and number 2) sits below, not visible.
The number two 2) stud sits on the backside of the setting-lever and engages in a winding-stem groove. The groove is best shown in this repeated picture;
The way this all works together is that when the winding-stem is pulled (blue arrow), the setting-lever will turn as shown with the yellow arrow. It pushes against the slanted-edge of the clutch-lever and forces the lever upwards. When the clutch-lever moves upward it drags the sliding-clutch with it from the winding-position into the time-setting position.
With the above setup, when the winding-stem is released, the clutch-lever spring would push the clutch-lever downwards against the setting-lever. The setting-lever would than turn back, the clutch-lever slides down and drags the sliding-clutch slides back onto the winding-pinion, into the winding-position.
To prevent this, we introduce our final part; the setting-lever spring;
The setting-lever spring has two notches for the setting-lever stud 1), once pulled into one of the two positions, to rest in.
Below is the keyless fully assembled. The picture below is when the winding-stem is pushed in and the keyless is in the winding-position;
The following picture is when the winding stem is pulled-out and the keyless sits in the time-setting position;
The next picture to show with arrows how these keyless parts move from the winding position into the time-setting position. The winding-stem is pulled (blue arrow), the setting-lever stud turns to the next notch of the setting-lever spring and pushes the clutch-lever upwards. The clutch-lever moves the sliding clutch from the winding-position into the time-setting position. With the setting-lever stud 1) in the 2nd position, it's spring-tension "locked" and the keyless stays "fixed" in position. When reversing, the setting-lever stud has to overcome the setting-lever spring tension to move back to the fist notch.
Now we finally get to the part where things can go wrong.
For a better view we strip the setting-lever spring again;
Above everything is in rest position, this is in the winding position.
The winding stem keeps the winding-pinion and the sliding-clutch in place.
But as soon as the winding-stem is pulled the winding-pinion and the sliding clutch do become slightly "free-floating" or less supported. The winding pinion is pretty much locked up in the movements main-plate and a wheel below it (crown-wheel), but the sliding clutch, even though the clutch-lever sits in its groove, has a bit less support => more movement.
When inserting the winding-stem, the square part of the winding-stem has to find and engage into the square hole of the sliding clutch. This may involve some "wiggling" of the winding-stem and this "wiggling" may be just enough for the clutch-lever to jump out of the sliding-clutch groove. It will look than like this;
or with the setting-lever spring mounted, it will look like this;
When this happens we are in deep doodoo !
There is no-way to get the clutch-lever back into the sliding-clutch groove, apart from partially stripping the movement ? ?
The movement has to be taken out of its case, the hands and dial are to be removed and (if it has) the calendar-works partially stripped.
For removal of the hands and dial I like to refer to one of my earlier tutorials: "How to change hands & dial on a Vostok"; How to change hands & dial on a Vostok 24xx
For detailed instructions of how to remove (partially) the calendar works, I like to refer to another earlier tutorial: "How to change a date-wheel on a Vostok 24xx": How to change a date-wheel on a Vostok 24xx
Below the procedure once the dial and hands are removed, in this case the movement has a calendar-work;
Remove date-indicator guard;
Remove date-wheel, date-jumper, date-jumper spring, hour-wheel and calendar-wheel;
Undo the keyless 3x cover-plate / setting lever spring screws. (some movements this plate / spring has only 2x screws)
Lift plate / setting-lever spring;
And what you should see is as below; the clutch-lever disengaged from the sliding clutch;
For support and stability it's time insert the winding-stem;
While taking pictures, going farwards and backwards, here is were I went wrong with showing how to reset the clutch-lever. I don't have the winding-stem inserted but from now on imagine that the winding-stem have been inserted !
Hold the clutch-lever spring down, just in case it likes to jump while manipulating the clutch-lever back into the sliding-clutch groove.
Install setting-lever spring / cover-plate. You may have to leave the setting-lever spring resting on top of the setting-lever stud to insert the screws.
Once the screws are back in, pull or push the setting-lever spring behind the setting-lever stud.
Test the proper working of the keyless in both positions before reassembling the calendar-works, dial and hands.
With the movement back in it's housing, carefully re-insert the winding stem ?
If it goes wrong again, at least now you know the procedure .......
Suc6 !
EndeavourDK.
P.S.; please let me know if things have to be added / corrected or modified .......
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Very nice Roland, I always wondered how the keyless system worked.
Thanks for excelent work and pictures. I thought I had quite a good idea about how the keyless is working, but I now understand I had quite a lot more to learn. I hadn't even reflected aout the two nothes on the setting-lever spring...Sometimes, after a watch repair / service or modification, when inserting the winding-stem back into the movements keyless, things can go wrong. When it does, the symptoms are that either the stem doesn't want to go back in, there is a problem with winding the watch or with the setting of the time.
Sadly, if this occurs there is no short-cut or easy-way around to fix the problem.
In this article I try to describe what goes wrong and what needs to be done to correct the situation.
There is no point in trying to describe the problem if all the parts involved are not known and it is not known how they play together.
So, first and introduction to all the parts of the keyless;
View attachment 15930384
1) Hour-wheel ( part number #255)
2) Cannon pinion (#245)
3) Minute wheel (#260)
4) Setting wheel (#450)
5) Clutch wheel or sliding-clutch (#407)
6) Winding pinion (#410)
7) Setting lever (#443)
8) Winding stem (#401)
9) Clutch-lever spring (#440)
10) Clutch-lever (#435)
11) Setting lever spring (+keyless cover-plate) (#445)
Here is the same picture, but with all the parts in their silhouette;
View attachment 15930395
To start we take first a few parts under the loupe and than we slowly start to build the keyless system up;
Here are the first parts; the setting wheel (on top), the sliding clutch (in the middle), the winding-pinion (on the bottom) and to the right the clutch-lever;
View attachment 15930398
The sliding-clutch plays an important role within the keyless system. It only knows two positions and is always in the one or in the other. Either it slides to the bottom and engages with the winding-pinion or it slides to the top and engages with the setting-wheel. The lever which slides the sliding-clutch into the one or into the other position is called the clutch-lever.
As can be seen in the following picture, the sliding-clutch has a groove cut-out in the middle in which the clutch-lever sits, like this;
View attachment 15930420
Through the middle of the winding-pinion and the sliding-clutch runs the winding stem. Here a picture where these two parts are situated over the winding-stem;
View attachment 15930427
The winding pinion sits to the left side, against a bevel and on a cylindrical part of the winding stem. The sliding-clutch sits and slides over the square-part of the winding-stem.
It is important to know that the winding pinion has a round-hole in it, whereas the sliding-clutch has a square-hole in it, best to be seen on the next picture;
View attachment 15930429
This means that the winding-pinion with its round hole and situated over a cylindrical-part of the winding-stem is free to rotate. The sliding-clutch however, with its square hole, positioned over the square part of the winding-stem is not free to rotate, but it is allowed slide. This means that in whichever direction the winding stem is turned, the sliding-clutch will turn with it and when engaged in either the winding-pinion on the bottom or in the setting-wheel on top, it will also transfer any torque which is put onto the winding-stem.
The picture below show how the components are positioned in the movements main-plate;
View attachment 15930445
On this picture above the sliding clutch sits in the lower position and is engaged into the winding-pinion.
The picture below shows the sliding-clutch in the upper position, engaged into the setting-wheel. (What also (just) can be seen is the permanent engagement of the setting-wheel into the minute-wheel. When the setting-wheel is turned, it turns the minute-wheel which turn turns the cannon-pinion and that's how both hands, the minute- and hour-hand do move when setting the time)
View attachment 15930446
When we introduce the clutch-lever, it looks like this in the down-position, or more correctly in the winding-position;
View attachment 15930449
And here in the up-position, or more correctly in the time-setting position;
View attachment 15930451
We now introduce the clutch-lever spring, which pushes the clutch-lever down and keeps the sliding-clutch engaged into the winding-pinion.
View attachment 15930470
Next we introduce the setting-lever. It has two studs, 1) on top and number 2) sits below, not visible.
View attachment 15930472
The number two 2) stud sits on the backside of the setting-lever and engages in a winding-stem groove. The groove is best shown in this repeated picture;
View attachment 15930474
The way this all works together is that when the winding-stem is pulled (blue arrow), the setting-lever will turn as shown with the yellow arrow. It pushes against the slanted-edge of the clutch-lever and forces the lever upwards. When the clutch-lever moves upward it drags the sliding-clutch with it from the winding-position into the time-setting position.
View attachment 15930475
With the above setup, when the winding-stem is released, the clutch-lever spring would push the clutch-lever downwards against the setting-lever. The setting-lever would than turn back, the clutch-lever slides down and drags the sliding-clutch slides back onto the winding-pinion, into the winding-position.
To prevent this, we introduce our final part; the setting-lever spring;
View attachment 15930484
The setting-lever spring has two notches for the setting-lever stud 1), once pulled into one of the two positions, to rest in.
Below is the keyless fully assembled. The picture below is when the winding-stem is pushed in and the keyless is in the winding-position;
View attachment 15930486
The following picture is when the winding stem is pulled-out and the keyless sits in the time-setting position;
View attachment 15930488
The next picture to show with arrows how these keyless parts move from the winding position into the time-setting position. The winding-stem is pulled (blue arrow), the setting-lever stud turns to the next notch of the setting-lever spring and pushes the clutch-lever upwards. The clutch-lever moves the sliding clutch from the winding-position into the time-setting position. With the setting-lever stud 1) in the 2nd position, it's spring-tension "locked" and the keyless stays "fixed" in position. When reversing, the setting-lever stud has to overcome the setting-lever spring tension to move back to the fist notch.
View attachment 15930500
Now we finally get to the part where things can go wrong.
For a better view we strip the setting-lever spring again;
View attachment 15930501
Above everything is in rest position, this is in the winding position.
The winding stem keeps the winding-pinion and the sliding-clutch in place.
But as soon as the winding-stem is pulled the winding-pinion and the sliding clutch do become slightly "free-floating" or less supported. The winding pinion is pretty much locked up in the movements main-plate and a wheel below it (crown-wheel), but the sliding clutch, even though the clutch-lever sits in its groove, has a bit less support => more movement.
When inserting the winding-stem, the square part of the winding-stem has to find and engage into the square hole of the sliding clutch. This may involve some "wiggling" of the winding-stem and this "wiggling" may be just enough for the clutch-lever to jump out of the sliding-clutch groove. It will look than like this;
View attachment 15930515
or with the setting-lever spring mounted, it will look like this;
View attachment 15930517
When this happens we are in deep doodoo !
There is no-way to get the clutch-lever back into the sliding-clutch groove, apart from partially stripping the movement ? ?
The movement has to be taken out of its case, the hands and dial are to be removed and (if it has) the calendar-works partially stripped.
For removal of the hands and dial I like to refer to one of my earlier tutorials: "How to change hands & dial on a Vostok"; How to change hands & dial on a Vostok 24xx
For detailed instructions of how to remove (partially) the calendar works, I like to refer to another earlier tutorial: "How to change a date-wheel on a Vostok 24xx": How to change a date-wheel on a Vostok 24xx
Below the procedure once the dial and hands are removed, in this case the movement has a calendar-work;
View attachment 15930574
Remove date-indicator guard;
View attachment 15930575
Remove date-wheel, date-jumper, date-jumper spring, hour-wheel and calendar-wheel;
View attachment 15930579
Undo the keyless 3x cover-plate / setting lever spring screws. (some movements this plate / spring has only 2x screws)
View attachment 15930590
Lift plate / setting-lever spring;
View attachment 15930594
And what you should see is as below; the clutch-lever disengaged from the sliding clutch;
View attachment 15930597
For support and stability it's time insert the winding-stem;
View attachment 15930602
While taking pictures, going farwards and backwards, here is were I went wrong with showing how to reset the clutch-lever. I don't have the winding-stem inserted but from now on imagine that the winding-stem have been inserted !
Hold the clutch-lever spring down, just in case it likes to jump while manipulating the clutch-lever back into the sliding-clutch groove.
View attachment 15930616
Install setting-lever spring / cover-plate. You may have to leave the setting-lever spring resting on top of the setting-lever stud to insert the screws.
View attachment 15930620
Once the screws are back in, pull or push the setting-lever spring behind the setting-lever stud.
View attachment 15930625
Test the proper working of the keyless in both positions before reassembling the calendar-works, dial and hands.
With the movement back in it's housing, carefully re-insert the winding stem ?
If it goes wrong again, at least now you know the procedure .......
Suc6 !
EndeavourDK.
P.S.; please let me know if things have to be added / corrected or modified .......
Your posts have been a huge help. As a thank you I have made a vector of your avatar to use inplace of the pixelated mess you currently use. Use is freely as you wish, if you want a scalable vector message me.
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