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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am in the market for a stylish and classy stainless steel watch that works in a variety of settings (more towards the informal / weekend side) and have almost settled on the IWC Portugieser 7 Day Automatic (Ref 5001 or 5007). I say almost because a few years ago I owned a 5001 and the one aspect that I never fully accepted was how big the watch was (42.3m x 13.9mm). It was a thing of beauty to look at but the diameter meant that it was far from understated and the ~14mm height meant that it didn't slide under shirt cuffs.

I appreciate that the 5001, and the new (even thicker!) 5007, are very unique looking so there aren't a lot of direct comparables for for someone in my position what other brands and models would be worth considering? Price point is $10k or less but I don't mind buying used to get the right watch within this budget. Most of my WIS time is spent in the sport/tool watch segment so my knowledge is a bit limited in this semi-dressy segment.

Ideally:

-Beautiful, classy and distinctive like the IWC Portuguese 7 Day Automatic

-Stainless case with black or very dark dial (not white or silver)

-40 to 42mm case but slimmer than 14mm

-Date is almost a must have for me and an additional complication (see 7 Day reserve dial) is a big bonus

-Prefer to stay away from chronograph models

-More modern than old fashion

-Durable enough for daily office, home and family use, not a fragile evening watch


Please give me your $0.02
 

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Dornblüth & Sohn 99.3. 42mm diameter and 11.5mm thickness. Same as my 99.1, which fits me perfectly and that I wear frequently at the office.

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There are a variety of dial options, and the option for some customization if you order from them directly. That is what I did and it was a pleasure working with Dirk, but as production is approximately 10 watches per month, the wait time is usually north of 1 year. That said, there are a few ADs that have watches in stock. Watchbuys is one in the US.

Additionally, while the Senator Observer is 44mm, it is 12mm in thickness, so perhaps another option.

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+1 for the Senator Observer. I was considering something from the Portugieser line, went with the GO instead. Very happy.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I love this forum - thanks for the two suggestions!

This is the first time I have seen the Dornblüth & Sohn 99.3 and it is very appealing. The Glashutte is also stunning and certainly a good alternative, just wish it wasn't a full-fat 44mm ;). Time to research both of these a bit more but please keep the suggestions coming.
 

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OP, this is pretty much sums up my biggest gripe with IWC. Size. I own the Portuguese Chronograph Classic which is beautiful to look at, but too thick at 14.5mm. Still like it and wear it often, but IWC needs to put it on a diet. I'd look at the Portuguese hand wound 8 days. It's 43mm, but much thinner.
 

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I love this forum - thanks for the two suggestions!

This is the first time I have seen the Dornblüth & Sohn 99.3 and it is very appealing. The Glashutte is also stunning and certainly a good alternative, just wish it wasn't a full-fat 44mm ;). Time to research both of these a bit more but please keep the suggestions coming.
omeglycine nailed the recommendations. Those were the two I was going to suggest. I found myself in a similar situation, and ultimately chose the Dornbluth and Sohn 99.2, which would also be worth a look for you. It has the same dial configuration as the IWC 5001 and the GOSO, but no date window.

As for the Glashutte Original Senator Observer, it is 44mm, but it seems to wear a little smaller than that due to the bezel and the lug shape.
 

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Unlikely candidate,pam 141...

42mm diameter,11-12mm thickness,Zenith movt,lume,date with cyclops,only 500 produced back in 2002 which means it's quite rare,nowadays it cost around $5-7k in the market

Another alternative from the same brand will be the 42mm,12ish mm thick pam 98 or 355 as they have date,GMT and alarm with GP movt,current price around 6-7k

Another alternative will be pam 184 as well,42 mm and 11-12 mm thick with date and GMT,it uses JLC movt,current price around 6-6.5k


184 is the one with dual crown
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Lots of beautiful watches in this thread but still no Goldilocks for me!

The IWC 5001 / 5007 would still be my number one choice if it was a bit smaller overall. This got me thinking about the 3714 chrono version but it is missing the date and the overall design isn't as appealing, not to mention the difference in movement quality.

The Glashutte S.O. is extremely appealing but I am not crazy about the retro Arabic numerals and despite reviews saying it wears small for a 44mm that still makes it larger than I want. The Dornblüth & Sohn 99.3 is a nice watch that I hadn't seen before but it is a bit heavy on the Germanic tool look and light on the luxury. The applied numerals on the IWC dial really go a long way towards making the Portuguese (Portugieser ?) line look very special.

Maybe this bit of info might help to unearth more options - If the 5001 and GO S.O are the general styling reference but are just a bit too large, I would rather move towards a sportier look (think jeans) rather than being able to wear it to the opera with a suit. Whatever I buy it will have a black or very dark dial.

Lastly, is it just me or does almost ever watch in this segment, or at least in this thread, have an old fashion, retro look to it? Can't someone produce a stylish modern looking watch along the lines of an IWC Portuguese? McLaren didn't try to make the P1 look like a '70s F1 car and Ferrari seems to do well building 458 Specials and F12 TdFs, not retro mobiles that look like Daytona Spyders. Why do so many watch companies feel that stylish and classy means it needs to look like something from fifty years ago? <rant over>
 

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Oris 110? I have a IWC 5001 and I think the Oris actually offers a lot, depending on what the ultimate street price may be.

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or the Glauschutte Senator Pointer Date. There are a few less common variants of this watch I have seen also. All equally attractive to my eye.
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