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The Kurono website claims 7mm including crystal, which would be very impressive - technically walking into the ultra-thin territory. 10.5mm sounds more believable.
Exactly.. maybe they meant without crystal? Case doesn’t look like an ultra thin at all. How is it that none of the watch blogs asked them?
 

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Exactly.. maybe they meant without crystal? Case doesn’t look like an ultra thin at all. How is it that none of the watch blogs asked them?
I don’t know, but website says 7mm incl crystal


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There is an article by ‘wornandwound’ which states that the thickness is 11mm including the crystal. Not posting a link as unsure if it violates forum rules. But should be pretty easy to search for it. Posted below is a snipping of the section where they mention it.
15890269
 

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There is an article by ‘wornandwound’ which states that the thickness is 11mm including the crystal. Not posting a link as unsure if it violates forum rules. But should be pretty easy to search for it. Posted below is a snipping of the section where they mention it.
View attachment 15890269
Ah, thanks. Wonder if they updated it, thought it said 7 when I read it earlier. Maybe not . 11 I believe.
 

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Ah, thanks. Wonder if they updated it, thought it said 7 when I read it earlier. Maybe not . 11 I believe.
The Kurono Tokyo website still says 7mm inclusive of crystal. So I guess it’s a typo on their end. At least the other publications have started posting the correct specs.
 

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The Kurono website claims 7mm including crystal, which would be very impressive - technically walking into the ultra-thin territory. 10.5mm sounds more believable.
Interesting. I just looked at my own review for the Bullseye and found 10.5mm in my notes. I do measure them myself, and I am entirely capable of being wrong, so this could be a mistake on my end. I will say that I'm currently wearing a Ming 27.01 that is about 7mm, and the Kurono was definitely thicker than this.
 

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Interesting. I just looked at my own review for the Bullseye and found 10.5mm in my notes. I do measure them myself, and I am entirely capable of being wrong, so this could be a mistake on my end. I will say that I'm currently wearing a Ming 27.01 that is about 7mm, and the Kurono was definitely thicker than this.
oh that's kinda disappointing, i saw that 7mm and I was like, oh yeah great, I can add a super thin watch....
 

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Ebel Senior automatic is 8.4mm and is one of the thinest watches I own, its auto movement is a hair under 3mm and the crystal is not that domed, so I suppose Kurono is almost the same, but with a 2mm sapphire.
 

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A Sellita/ETA at the top or COSC grade level are reasonably impressive, both to look at, and from a performance perspective. The Miyota 90S5 operates within a larger range of performance values (-10 to +30 sec per day) versus -5 to +15spd on a top grade and -4 to +6 on COSC grade ETA2824-2. From experience, my Miyota 9 series watches typically run at between +10 and +20 spd, whereas my ETA/Sellita watches remain under +10spd, standard grade included. Both movements are easy to service and regulate across the globe, with the 90S5 being cheaper than a top or COSC grade ETA2824-2, both at wholesale and retail. The 90S5 is touted as being in Miyota's premium movement lineup, but there's nothing really premium about it's appearance:

Wonder if anyone has a Mori or other and has had it on a timegrapher? search online but couldnt find
 

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All this movement talk....don't the Toki, Mori et al, all come with closed casebacks?
Seems redundant to worry about how boring the Miyota might look vs the Sellita?
 

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All this movement talk....don't the Toki, Mori et al, all come with closed casebacks?
Seems redundant to worry about how boring the Miyota might look vs the Sellita?
I absolutely agree, Kurono watches are not about the movements ... at all. Kinda like a Supra with a Yaris engine :) I am also not excited about Miyota, but am excited about the watch.
 

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Interesting. I just looked at my own review for the Bullseye and found 10.5mm in my notes. I do measure them myself, and I am entirely capable of being wrong, so this could be a mistake on my end. I will say that I'm currently wearing a Ming 27.01 that is about 7mm, and the Kurono was definitely thicker than this.
I got very very excited when I saw 7mm (incl crystal) on their website, because that would make it even thinner than my SUF. But I don't see the reason how it would be that much thinner than the Bullseye you measured.
 

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HELP! I think this is a great looking watch, but I have two questions I'd like your advice on:

1) Is the pricing justified based on the credentials of the designer and the fact that his higher end stuff sells for tens of thousands of dollars? Normally I would not pay this price for a watch with this movement.....
2) I already own a lovely salmon dial watch --- this Baltic collaboration with Worn and Wound (photo below). Isn't the Toki too similar for me to buy it?

Thanks for your advice!!
15891694

(not my photo)
 

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HELP! I think this is a great looking watch, but I have two questions I'd like your advice on:

1) Is the pricing justified based on the credentials of the designer and the fact that his higher end stuff sells for tens of thousands of dollars? Normally I would not pay this price for a watch with this movement.....
2) I already own a lovely salmon dial watch --- this Baltic collaboration with Worn and Wound (photo below). Isn't the Toki too similar for me to buy it?

Thanks for your advice!!
View attachment 15891694
(not my photo)
For point 1) I would say if you like the design - go for it. I heard the same argument against the SUF 180 and it's my favorite watch in the collection right now (even against my beloved El Primero).
2) Similar to your situation, I have the SUF 180 Frosted Salmon. I am still going for the Toki due to:
  • I trust Asaoka that the color will be different from "Western Salmon"
  • My planned collection is large enough to fit 2 similar-but-not-identical watches, this point might be different for you
 

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HELP! I think this is a great looking watch, but I have two questions I'd like your advice on:

1) Is the pricing justified based on the credentials of the designer and the fact that his higher end stuff sells for tens of thousands of dollars? Normally I would not pay this price for a watch with this movement.....
2) I already own a lovely salmon dial watch --- this Baltic collaboration with Worn and Wound (photo below). Isn't the Toki too similar for me to buy it?

Thanks for your advice!!

(not my photo)
I have the same Baltic but with the "normal" color sector dial. While its nice, I'm expecting the kurono to have a more refined case and dial finishing. Also I don't like the ghost position on the crown on the baltic, and overall I found the baltic nice and well done, but a little generic on the case, and expect this to be a step up.

For you, you're in an even better position since you have the salmon one, you could easily just get the kurono and if you find that it can cover off the role of the baltic for you, the salmon baltic also can be sold quite easily 2nd hand for a nice profit
 

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All this movement talk....don't the Toki, Mori et al, all come with closed casebacks?
Seems redundant to worry about how boring the Miyota might look vs the Sellita?
You’re definitely right about the looks of the movement being unimportant. Likewise I agree with an above poster, that Kuronos are not bought for the movement.
Talking about the movement is not redundant though. If this watch is going to be one to wear daily, maybe in an office environment etc., from a practical standpoint, it matters if you can hear the movement spin, simply by turning the wrist. For feeling when you’re wearing it, it’s important to know whether you feel it “shake” on your wrist when you do so.
Likewise, it’s relevant if it’s running at +15-20 seconds, when watches in the same price range can be found with much better timekeeping.
In my opinion this is all very relevant when you plan to have this watch as part of a 2 maybe 3 watch collection for quite a while.
Unfortunately, it seems to have become fairely clear that this watch is for the collector with multiple watches, who can afford to have a watch only for the design and who doesn’t plan to wear it daily.
While the watch is not bought for the movement, with a price tag like that, the movement shouldn’t be as bad as it is. Just my 0.02.

I hope everyone has a smoothe buying experience tomorrow!
 

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You’re definitely right about the looks of the movement being unimportant. Likewise I agree with an above poster, that Kuronos are not bought for the movement.
Talking about the movement is not redundant though. If this watch is going to be one to wear daily, maybe in an office environment etc., from a practical standpoint, it matters if you can hear the movement spin, simply by turning the wrist. For feeling when you’re wearing it, it’s important to know whether you feel it “shake” on your wrist when you do so.
Likewise, it’s relevant if it’s running at +15-20 seconds, when watches in the same price range can be found with much better timekeeping.
In my opinion this is all very relevant when you plan to have this watch as part of a 2 maybe 3 watch collection for quite a while.
Unfortunately, it seems to have become fairely clear that this watch is for the collector with multiple watches, who can afford to have a watch only for the design and who doesn’t plan to wear it daily.
While the watch is not bought for the movement, with a price tag like that, the movement shouldn’t be as bad as it is. Just my 0.02.

I hope everyone has a smoothe buying experience tomorrow!
Redundant to talk about movement finishing or beauty due to it being hidden.
I totally agree about the technical aspects you stated. Never owned a Miyota though, so what do I know?!
 

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I have a REC Mustang watch with Miyota 9015 and many Citizen vintage watches. Never had a problem and they are all very reliable movements. I must point out again. If a watch is 30 seconds fast a day, but it is exactly 30 seconds every day it means it is very very accurate. It can be regulated to be 0 seconds daily :) Most of the movements are mass produces and when a acceptable daily deviation is stated it is a tolerance that every single movement must fall into. Thus -20/+30 does not mean one single watch will vary in that span. One will be -20/-10 other 0/+10, third +15/+30 and so on. The actual precision is those 10 or 15 seconds between the particular watch daily variation.
 
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