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Here’s my latest.

9937OB with Swiss movement and solid end links bracelet, brushed. Sightly thinner. Still using the original case back.

Logo on the side removed, slightly profiled pointed Crown guards.
BSH decal relief dial
Insert replaced
Seiko flat top plexi

I think it looks pretty good.













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Looks amazing!

What decal relief process did you use?
 

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Looks great. Where did that BB style insert come from?
That is the Namoki Mods sloped ceramic BB58 style, sitting on top of a 38mm Murphy Bezel:


Anything labelled as "SLOPED" on Namoki site will fit the 38mm Murphys if you also use a beefy domed crystal to meet the higher inside edge. I had also considered, for this watch, this rootbeer insert:



 

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Well, I've embarked on my journey. I got fed up with the ugly, yellow-tinted indices and placed an order for a 5513 style dial with vintage lume, and some matching mercedes hands. It should be here in a month, which leaves me plenty of time to worry about disassembly. In particular, I'm curious about the dial. Is it held in by screws? If so, do I need a set of screwdrivers?
 

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Well, I've embarked on my journey. I got fed up with the ugly, yellow-tinted indices and placed an order for a 5513 style dial with vintage lume, and some matching mercedes hands. It should be here in a month, which leaves me plenty of time to worry about disassembly. In particular, I'm curious about the dial. Is it held in by screws? If so, do I need a set of screwdrivers?
No screws or screwdrivers needed. Everything is just pressed together by the back case and the under side of the rehaut. :)

While you wait, you can go to the nearest art supply store and pick up a Copic or Pro Marker alcohol based marker and pick a good color to transform your stock indices and hands, it's fun (I like Pro Marker's sandstone color).

15502748
 

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No screws or screwdrivers needed. Everything is just pressed together by the back case and the under side of the rehaut. :)
Well, that makes me feel better 😁 . As soon as my caseback tool, and the hand puller and press arrive I'll start playing with the copic markers as you recommend. I'm thinking about transplanting the Invicta wings onto my new dial;
15503481


I'm curious about the crystal as well, I'd like to change it to a domed acrylic. Is it fit with a gasket, or just glued in?
 

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Well, that makes me feel better 😁 . As soon as my caseback tool, and the hand puller and press arrive I'll start playing with the copic markers as you recommend. I'm thinking about transplanting the Invicta wings onto my new dial; View attachment 15503481

I'm curious about the crystal as well, I'd like to change it to a domed acrylic. Is it fit with a gasket, or just glued in?
The invicta wings, like the rest of the indices have small feet on the back, so you'll have to file those off and place it with adhesive.

The crystal on MOST OB style pro divers is 30mm x 2.5mm and is press fit using a gasket. There is a lot of good info on gasket installation hidden in the thread earlier somewhere.
 

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^this. I use Stella WR acrylic crystals at 30mm exactly, stock gasket, direct swap. Pop out the old, press in the new.

Some guys say to use bigger 30.1mm, but they always cracked for me. Never had a leak, even in testing, with my 30mm ones though. It's friction fit onto the stock rubbery gasket. No glue. I really like the ones with a tension ring because they come in both gold and silver, and when used cleverly can add a TON of depth to a mod. Here's my dad's watch with a gold/gilt tension ring Stella WR dome:

15505097
 

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Pop out the old, press in the new.
Sounds good! Do I need a crystal press, or can I improvise? I suppose I could always send it to someone who has the equipment, if necessary.

Also, I've been looking at the rehaut, and the depth is starting to bother me. If I wanted to take about a millimeter off with a lathe, and put a spacer ring in the back, would I run into any problems? Would I need a 30mm dial as opposed to 29.5?
 

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15505715

The first of my two most recent mods on an 8926OB base. For me there's something about modding a Pro Diver, because I'm anyways taking off the engraving and refinishing at least a side, that makes me want to experiment with case shaping. It also makes each mod more unique and special than say, an SKX type case where you just pick what you want from the choices available.

15505717

"Green and Gilty"
Speaking of acrylics with tension rings :D
 

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^this. I use Stella WR acrylic crystals at 30mm exactly, stock gasket, direct swap. Pop out the old, press in the new.

Some guys say to use bigger 30.1mm, but they always cracked for me. Never had a leak, even in testing, with my 30mm ones though. It's friction fit onto the stock rubbery gasket. No glue. I really like the ones with a tension ring because they come in both gold and silver, and when used cleverly can add a TON of depth to a mod. Here's my dad's watch with a gold/gilt tension ring Stella WR dome:

View attachment 15505097
100% agree. If you get a decent crystal with the tension ring, go for the actual size with the gasket. I like the GS a bit better, Ever Tite is more flush or Diver Tite if you like the thick bubble.
 

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First mod attempt.
Raffles-time dial and hands from eBay
Cyclops removed

 

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First mod attempt.
Raffles-time dial and hands from eBay
Cyclops removed
How's the lume? Looks nuclear in the pictures!

If that's your first mod attempt, you did better than I did. I bent the second hand that was supposed to go on this, then couldn't get the original one back on either, and being worried about leaving the movement out of the case too long I put it back together like this:

IMG_20201018_234637.jpg


It stayed that way for about a week before I got up the courage to try again. I was still proud enough to take pictures though hahaha
 
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