Unless you have a super camera the best accuracy you can get with the video method is 1/25=0.04s. Having said that it's good that you're not seeing any drift. When it's that close I generally run a couple of tests to see where the "tick" falls, it could be anywhere in that 0.04s range.
Actually more like 1/30s if the camera and the LCD are not that great, but if the LCD is bright and you have a very strong light on the watch itself you can go to the limit from the LCD, which is 1/60 - the camera still stays at 30 fps but since the exposure time is (much) shorter than 1/30 you tend to get only one LCD frame (or something like 80% of it and 20% of the next/previous).
The other thing is that you can also look after a number of frames and do some average, and with a very careful analysis and some care on internet sync you can sometimes get to around 0.005s accuracy (which I believe can be seen in the first 2-months results on my 8F33 (not my 8F56), where the standard deviation was suggesting an error in that range or better).