Good diagnostics work so far, gentlemen. I hope it works out. (If it does, I'll add this thread to the sticky that discusses this adjustment.)
I'm back again :...
9. Wait 5 seconds.
10. Push crown into position 0.
11. Release crown and let it settle into position 1.
12. The date ring turns. The second arm ticks.
13. Pull crown to position 3.
14. Remove needles.
15. Insert battery.
16. Close watch...
You're welcome, Hans.Agreed!
Thank you for your tenacity about this.
To make sure that these needles are providing the external power correctly, I will measure some voltages on the watch.
Can't wait to try again!
But first I'll have to wait a few more days to make sure I still have the same rate.
I admire you for your patience with your watch George. It must have taken ages before you knew the corrections worked.
Hans, that is dangerous! You could have killed the electronics of your watch. Lucky you didn't.I am an utter moron. It's official.
The correction needle was connected to the minus of the battery. It should have been the plus.
With all my attention focussed on these power providing needles the obvious escaped me.
My apologies for waisting everybody's time.
The good news is that my next effort will likely have a lot more chances of succeeding. Phew!
I have corrected the rate again, and I look forward to the results.
Sorry about that George!
You are right, Jim, it's a "three-handed" business.It was not a waste of time! I got explicit instructions which did not exist before :-! ... every cloud has a silver lining :-d
Actually, it prompted me to get my Perpetual VHP opened up for adjusting... unfortunately I really need 3 hands and have only 2... I'll have to wait until I can get someone to help...
6-steps instruction guide for calibration of the non-perpetual VHP:I think the step-by-step instructions listed here are fantastic. Would it be possible for someone knowledgeable to do the same for the non-perpetual VHP conquest. I would find this invaluable, and I am sure there are others who would benefit as well. Thanks in advance!
The only change I would make is to wait 5 seconds between step 4 and 5. The wait of 5 seconds may not be needed as it is not mentioned in some of the other manuals.7-steps instruction guide for calibration of the non-perpetual VHP:
1. Open your watch.
2. Pull the crown to position 3.
3. Connect a wire (or needle on the wire) to the '+' of the battery; tap the 'C-' or 'C+' terminal X times.
4. Disconnect wire/needle.
5. Push the crown into position 1.
6. Close the watch.
7. Set the time as you would normally do.
You have just answered your own question, David.The only change I would make is to wait 5 seconds between step 4 and 5. The wait of 5 seconds may not be needed as it is not mentioned in some of the other manuals.
The wait period is probably not needed since the battery is installed and the update will not be affected by the removal of adjustment wires (needles).
What do you think, George?
Indeed, it is a bit premature to draw conclusion.Maybe we're not there as yet.
My watch was 0.03 second slow after I adjusted the rate.
I was a bit slow pushing in the crown! :-d
And after 17 hours of operation, it is 0.06 second fast.
That would equate to 1 second gain every 6 days. Which means no change in the rate.
Measured by video with a NTP calibrated computer clock as reference.
It's a bit premature, to draw conclusions on that so I'll make some more measurements the next few days.
OK, I believe these are the right steps according to the manual and common sense. By common sense I meant to indicate that I compared the service manual's guide for calibration of the similar but 1.55V powered ETA 252.511 movement (it does not need external power supply for the calibration) to the service manual's guide for our ETA 252.611 and did not find anything that would contradict the 11-steps guide. On the other hand the comparison actually confirmed for me that the 11-steps guide is the right one.These were the steps I used last:
1. Remove the battery (leave the crown at position 1 - neutral).
2. Connect needles to the '+' and '-' terminals. As in diagram on page 19.
3. Connect the 3V external power supply to the wires that are soldered to these needles.
4. Pull crown to position 3.
5. With one more needle connected to the '+' of the external power supply; tap the 'C-' patch 14 times.
6. Push the crown into position 1.
7. Wait 5 seconds.
8. Disconnect power (remove needles).
9. Insert battery and close the watch.
10. Push crown to position 0 to let the seconds hand run.
11. Set time as you would normally do.
Excellent example of clear thinking, George. The forced calibration, while painful, would be a clear confirmation if necessary. Do David's positive results support the validity of your procedure?OK, I believe these are the right steps according to the manual and common sense. By common sense I meant to indicate that I compared the service manual's guide for calibration of the similar but 1.55V powered ETA 252.511 movement (it does not need external power supply for the calibration) to the service manual's guide for our ETA 252.611 and did not find anything that would contradict the 11-steps guide. On the other hand the comparison actually confirmed for me that the 11-steps guide is the right one.
Well, that is the theory which should be supported by experimental evidence and that is where we have problem.
In the case of my watch I only needed just one impulse given to the "C+" terminal. I have reported that it was a success. I came to this conclusion by checking the watch (3-4 weeks after the rate adjustment) against the atomic-time reference on the net (as I usually do). That time I did not take much note of the fact that in Central Europe we experienced extremely high (close to 40°C) temperature for weeks. I hardly wear the watch so it's been subjected to temperature changes without "body-thermocompensation" or air-conditioning. Its built-in thermocompensation should take care of most but the really extreme temprature changes. Having said that, now I wish I had to correct more than just that one impulse because it would have been easier to measure any rate change with greater adjutment. If nobody else can repeat my success(?) (calibrating the ETA 252.611 movement) in the next couple of weeks then I will make a new attempt to adjust the rate on my Longines: this time I would go for + or - 10 impulses (equals to around + or - 40 seconds per year) just to see that it really works. In the meantime, I pray that someone will save me from the "forced" calibration procedure.
David is yet to calibrate a watch that needs external power supply during the procedure. He had great results with his other watches. We know that the external power supply makes the procedure much more complicated (for us laypersons). So I look forward to David's attempt to calibrate his Longines (ETA 252.611).Excellent example of clear thinking, George. The forced calibration, while painful, would be a clear confirmation if necessary. Do David's positive results support the validity of your procedure?
Hans, your theory about step 3B makes sense. It might be the missing link. Yes, it can happen that the watch has an "on switch" (crown position 0) for safety reason and for avoiding draining of the battery in the shop (as you mentioned).... There is one more step that I would like to slip in somewhere. And I believe it makes a lot of sense.
It is step 3B as outlined on page 16. "Press the crown briefly; the watch will begin to work ..."
I suspect that connecting an external power supply, and for that matter inserting a new battery will not get this watch going. It needs this quick push on the crown for the watch to get to work.
So the corrections I made in my last effort were made to a watch that is asleep. Or at least not switched on.
And another guess: The quick push on the crown to get the watch going, was meant so that the watch could be stored without draining the battery. To store it until it was time to be sold.
In my last effort I made sure that the watch was connected to the external power supply by measuring the voltage as in Fig 1. on page 15. I would have liked to just switch it on, by pressing the crown briefly and then pulling the crown to position 3, and start the corrections.
What do you think? Do you remember anything about quickly pressing the crown to get the watch going while on external power?