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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m looking to build my next daily, but having trouble finding a case that fits my needs. Specifically, something thin.

Some of the 4-digit GMT homages come close, and the NTH’s are lovely but more than I’d like to spend. Same story with the combat subs

Finding a case and building it myself seems like the most cost effective way to go, but maybe there’s something out there I can use as a base.

If this is a non-starter, I’d be open to a flieger style case as well.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I’m also interested to see what the brain trust here comes up with. Are you set on a GMT movement? That might limit your options.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So far I’ve found this goofy thing...

Quartz and non-screw down crown. But I assume the case is the same as the auto version, so maybe a movement and crown tube swap is possible.

I don’t need to dive in it, but swimming without worry is essential.
 

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I’m looking to build my next daily, but having trouble finding a case that fits my needs. Specifically, something thin.
If this is a non-starter, I’d be open to a flieger style case as well.
Not a flieger but a field watch case by Namoki.
Diameter: 38mm
Lug to Lug: 46.5mm
Thickness: 9.9mm

 

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I’m looking to build my next daily, but having trouble finding a case that fits my needs. Specifically, something thin.

Some of the 4-digit GMT homages come close, and the NTH’s are lovely but more than I’d like to spend. Same story with the combat subs

Finding a case and building it myself seems like the most cost effective way to go, but maybe there’s something out there I can use as a base.

If this is a non-starter, I’d be open to a flieger style case as well.

Thanks in advance.
I own an Obris Morgan, which is very slim, well made, and 40mm. It cost about $369, has a Miyota 9015 in it, and is very well made.
15870668
15870669
 

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I’m looking to build my next daily, but having trouble finding a case that fits my needs. Specifically, something thin.

Some of the 4-digit GMT homages come close, and the NTH’s are lovely but more than I’d like to spend. Same story with the combat subs

Finding a case and building it myself seems like the most cost effective way to go, but maybe there’s something out there I can use as a base.

If this is a non-starter, I’d be open to a flieger style case as well.

Thanks in advance.
Curious what your total budget is, whether buying or building.

The issues you'll encounter in a build are several, starting with the basic fact that there aren't very many empty cases you can buy that are very thin.

On top of that, all cases are typically designed for a specific movement, such that it may be prohibitively difficult to retro-fit a different movement. Aside from whether or not the crown stem will line up with the case-tube and crown, you may not have enough clearance above or below the movement, within the case.

I see Glycine Combat Subs advertised for $320-$380. Hard to think you could put together a much better watch for much less, and impossible for me to believe your build would be thinner, or even as thin, yet remotely close in WR.

Have you looked at Tisell? Their diver is $245 and 12.5mm thick. Their flieger is $224, and only 9.5mm thick. They claim the diver has 20ATM WR, and the flieger has 5ATM WR.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Curious what your total budget is, whether buying or building.

The issues you'll encounter in a build are several, starting with the basic fact that there aren't very many empty cases you can buy that are very thin.

On top of that, all cases are typically designed for a specific movement, such that it may be prohibitively difficult to retro-fit a different movement. Aside from whether or not the crown stem will line up with the case-tube and crown, you may not have enough clearance above or below the movement, within the case.

I see Glycine Combat Subs advertised for $320-$380. Hard to think you could put together a much better watch for much less, and impossible for me to believe your build would be thinner, or even as thin, yet remotely close in WR.

Have you looked at Tisell? Their diver is $245 and 12.5mm thick. Their flieger is $224, and only 9.5mm thick. They claim the diver has 20ATM WR, and the flieger has 5ATM WR.
Thanks for the recommendations! Budget is ideally <$500 all-in, but I'd probably be as happy with on the lower range and kinda sketchy as the upper end and perfect. Agreed that there's no way I'm going to make something better than a combat sub for the $, if only they made one in 40mm!

I ordered a couple of those silly mathey quartzes to play with- it looks like the ronda 505 has the same stem height as an ST1812 (ETA2892 clone), so with a custom movement holder this may be possible? I've never done anything more complex than a simple drop-in, so this is as much about learning/experimenting for me as "getting it right".
 

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Thanks for the recommendations! Budget is ideally <$500 all-in, but I'd probably be as happy with on the lower range and kinda sketchy as the upper end and perfect. Agreed that there's no way I'm going to make something better than a combat sub for the $, if only they made one in 40mm!

I ordered a couple of those silly mathey quartzes to play with- it looks like the ronda 505 has the same stem height as an ST1812 (ETA2892 clone), so with a custom movement holder this may be possible? I've never done anything more complex than a simple drop-in, so this is as much about learning/experimenting for me as "getting it right".
Crown stem height being the same is good. You'll also want to know the hands post height for each, thickness of each movement, and movement diameter. You'll need to be sure that you've got enough clearance under the crystal for the hands post, enough clearance between the movement and case back, and enough clearance around the perimeter of the movement.

You're planning on having a custom, one-off movement spacer made, to mate the movement to the case? I mean, unless you own the lathe, drill, and whatever else you'll need for that, I'd think it would be stupid expensive. You might get lucky buying a variety pack of plastic aftermarket movement spacers, but that'll be hit or miss.

Have you considered getting something used? You can find NTH Subs around the $500 mark, and sometimes less.

Here's two for sale now, here on WUS (not my listings) -



I also just found 6 on eBay, for $500 or less.






 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Crown stem height being the same is good. You'll also want to know the hands post height for each, thickness of each movement, and movement diameter. You'll need to be sure that you've got enough clearance under the crystal for the hands post, enough clearance between the movement and case back, and enough clearance around the perimeter of the movement.
Thanks for the recos- I have a friend with a lathe who's always looking for excuses to use it, but I'm sure I'll have plenty of bridges to cross when I get to them :)

Thinking through this has made me realize I'm more interested in tinkering than "having a good watch" haha. Otherwise, I'd have to admit that NTH is pretty much tailor-made for this ask.

Long as I've got the maestro's attention... Would something with a nipple-dial read as too retro for NTH? I've always thought it was such a fantastic design element.
 

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Thanks for the recos- I have a friend with a lathe who's always looking for excuses to use it, but I'm sure I'll have plenty of bridges to cross when I get to them :)

Thinking through this has made me realize I'm more interested in tinkering than "having a good watch" haha. Otherwise, I'd have to admit that NTH is pretty much tailor-made for this ask.

Long as I've got the maestro's attention... Would something with a nipple-dial read as too retro for NTH? I've always thought it was such a fantastic design element.
By "nipple-dial", I'm going to go out on a limb and assume you mean nipple markers, not a dial made to look like a nipple, or a dial with a nip pic on it.

We actually meant to do nipple-markers on the NTH Dolphin, but somewhere between approving the dials for production and getting the watches assembled that detail was lost.

We might look at doing something else with that style of marker, but it's not currently on my mind.
 

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Ha, yes I should have clarified. Good to know.
Good luck with the build.

Making a request, on behalf of the entire forum - take pics of the tear-down of the watch you start with, as well pics of all the parts - the parts you're NOT using, as well as the parts you are using. Take pics of any parts you get or make, and make sure to keep track of where the parts come from. If you make them, take pics showing what that process looks like.

Once your build is done, start a new thread about it, with pics and text to document the build from start to finish. The guys around here eat that $hlt up.
 
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