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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I, for whatever reason, have never noticed this public forum and was hoping I'd find better luck with a post in this forum.

I am looking for a gold watch (18k), roman numerals, leather band, manual movement, exhibition back. Yes that is basically a Patek Philippe Calatrava, but I can't afford that.

My budget is between 1k and 3k (if it is over $3,000 then I need to be able to negotiate below $3,000).

As I said, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is sorta my inspiration for what I am looking for, but I'm open to other things if it meets most of my criteria.

I also read that buying a watch in the 1k-3k budget isn't exactly the best use of money towards a watch and that it is better to either look below 1k or well above 3k. In the end I'd say it really just comes down to what I like and what I'm comfortable spending my money on. I can't afford anything near a real Patek, but would like to add a piece to keep and pass down that may cost between 1k and 3k.

I am currently most involved with this watch - Longines | L4.787.8.11.0 | Moyer Fine Jewelers

I currently own a Tissot Le Locle (SS bracelet) for my every day wear watch.

Thank you for the help!
 

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Nomos used to make the Ludwig in gold. Not sure if they do anymore. But you might find one pre-owned for your price range. (just checked - the yellow gold version is advertised for WAY over $3000 on Chrono24) If you can forego the 18k requirement, the Stainless version every other feature you want. For around $2000, brand new.

NomosLudwig2.gif


For less than $3000, I'm not sure you'll be able to find a solid gold watch (that isn't vintage). Likely they'll be plated. Not sure if that matters too much to you. But, if this is supposed to be a piece you'll pass down, I might steer clear. gold plating has a tendency to rub off. Stainless steel always looks good.
 
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If you get that Longines Longines La Grande Classique in 18K within your price range, I would say go for it. Another option is the Longines Flagship Heritage, but the time only version in 18K appears to have been discontinued. Also have a look at the Tissot T-Gold collection.

If I may be honest, given your budget, I would get a watch in stainless steel instead. The price of gold being what it is, your budget doesn't leave much room in the price for a nice mechanical movement. The Zenith Heritage Port Royal in 18K with the Elite movement was briefly on sale during the Christmas season last year for $4K on Ashford, but that was like 64% off the MSRP, and is a price that I haven't seen repeated in recent months.
 

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At this time, I don't think you will find a nice watch in solid 18K gold for $3k or less. Gold plated, sure, solid, no.
And if you do happen to find one, grab it right away. I would start looking at used pieces if having a solid gold case is the primary consideration.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for all of the replies!

I take it the Nomos watches only come with blue hands? At first I didn't realize why I ruled it out and then I saw another picture. I think I'll still consider it and try to see it in person, but blue hands on a dress watch don't really scream dress watch to me. I do like it though and it has that exhibition back, etc.

Thank you for the opinions on the gold. As I know I do like the look stainless steel, what type of watches in SS are available in my price range?

Thank you!!!
 

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Thank you for all of the replies!

I take it the Nomos watches only come with blue hands? At first I didn't realize why I ruled it out and then I saw another picture. I think I'll still consider it and try to see it in person, but blue hands on a dress watch don't really scream dress watch to me. I do like it though and it has that exhibition back, etc.

Thank you for the opinions on the gold. As I know I do like the look stainless steel, what type of watches in SS are available in my price range?

Thank you!!!
It sounds like you should have a look at the Nomos Orion.



But, there are plenty of dress watches with blued hands, the most iconic being those from Breguet.

 

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If you are ok with SS, I've seen the Zenith Ultra Thin manual wind go as low as 1879 on a reputable grey market site. So either that or the Nomos Orion would be my top choices
 

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I looked at the Frederique Constant Slim Moonsphase and thought it was pretty nice. I'm probably going to try to look at it in person. I'm also not quite in love with it though. How is the Frederique Constant brand? It sorta reminds me of fashion watches like Raymond Weil.

I'm not too into the Zenith, but I am starting to really like the Nomos more and more. How is that brands reputation? From what I've read, it seems pretty great. I definitely need to check one out in person.
 

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One of my favs - The Cellini!

(Not my pics - this one is about 2500 but they can be had for under 3 k and different dials are around. Now exibition back though but Rolex movements aren't all that pretty anyway and they are gold - not plated)


Coupla hundred more..
 

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I looked at the Frederique Constant Slim Moonsphase and thought it was pretty nice. I'm probably going to try to look at it in person. I'm also not quite in love with it though. How is the Frederique Constant brand? It sorta reminds me of fashion watches like Raymond Weil.

I'm not too into the Zenith, but I am starting to really like the Nomos more and more. How is that brands reputation? From what I've read, it seems pretty great. I definitely need to check one out in person.
If you can see one in person, definitely take that opportunity. But, even if you can't, I wouldn't hesitate to buy. I purchased a Tetra (their smallest, and most feminine) watch for my wife. I was a bit nervous about the prospect of buying a watch in this price range, sight unseen. I shouldn't have been. As nice as they look online - they look far more stunning in person. The dial isn't as flat. It shines - yet subtly so. The case and hands are impeccably finished. The whole watch exudes quite, simple, but flawless quality. And the straps they come with are great, too! I have trouble putting it into words, really. But the feeling is one of the highest quality in the simplest form. They aren't loud, or complex, or detailed. But you can tell that a great deal of care has been put into every element of their design and construction.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for all of the help! I think I'm really between the Nomos Orion and the Nomos Ludwig. Tough decision. Definitely need to see them in person.
 

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Hey! So I went to Wempe on 5th Avenue today and looked at some Nomos watches!

Looking for some opinions here. First, I ruled out the Orion. I prefer the Ludwig.

Next, I am 6'5" with decent sized wrists. He didn't have a 38mm manual Ludwig, but he had a 35mm manual and a 40mm Automatic. The 35mm was WAY too small so I easily ruled that out. The 40mm was perfect, except it was a automatic and I really wanted a manual. I tried on a 38mm Tangent and I thought it worked well size wise, but next to the 40mm automatic it just was too small.

I really didn't want an automatic because this watch isn't a watch I'd wear every day. I'd wear it probably once a week, maybe twice a week if there was another occasion to wear it. The whole point of an automatic is kinda lost if I'm just letting the spring unwind each time.

I know there are watch winding boxes or whatever they are called but I'm not really interested in purchasing one unless I really need to.

However, the automatic, besides being big enough, had an amazing back exhibiton case. You could see many more gears turning and the rotor allowed you to see a lot. I really did like the way it looked compared to the sparseness of the manual backs.

That being said, the price of the automatic (around 800 dollars more), the fact that I wouldn't really use the automatic enough to warrant it being an automatic, and the slightly thicker case, makes me really wish he had the 38mm manual!

In the end, I'm not sure 40mm vs. 38mm is worth the extra money (which I know the extra cost is more about the movement, but I'm treating the automatic as a manual as I'll end up winding it anyway). I like the idea of the manual and winding it when I go to wear it. I guess having to fix the time every time I go to wear it could be mildly annoying but not sure it is that big of a deal.

What do you guys think? The automatic did have an amazing back, but in the end I'm only one who would really see it. The 38mm would probably look fine on my wrist. It probably didn't look "right" at Wempe as I had the 40mm right next to it to compare. Thanks for the thoughts!
 
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