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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All-

Have a SS aquanaut as my day to day watch. Have been looking around/doing some rsch on a dress watch.

Would like it to be:

1) manual wind
2) three hander
3) 40mm or less
4) < 10mm thick
5) up to $25K MSRP (hopefully below $20K after negotiation)
6) I'm not much of a complications guy so most i would want is sub-seconds or moonphase.
7) Batons or arabic numerals fine; not a fan of roman numerals

Models I like so far are:

1) ALS 1815 (i prefer the 2014 model at 38.5mm; would consider up/down also but a little too busy for me)
2) Saxonia manual (at 37mm, would still NOT be too small on my wrist. The 40mm Saxonia thin is not for me given it's only two hands)
3) FPJ Chronometre Bleu (have looked at it a few times at boutique in nyc - indeed a beauty; and of course abukalb has sold all of us on its merits!)
4) none of the Calatravas (with possible exception of 5296g-001) or Patrimonys sing to me
5) even though it's an automatic, i like the parmagiani tonda 1950 in white gold with graphite dial...but am troubled by the big beating it takes in retaining value once you walk out the door so would only buy it at huge discount from AD.
6) I had SS JLC Mut Moon - while i loved how the dial was laid out, i was bothered by the silver hands on a silver sunburst dial (it makes it hard to see the time easily [at least to me] when there is no contrast between hands, dial, and baton...but a MUT Moon in gold is a serious option -- the eggshell dial and blue moonphase is sublime...i know, it's not an auto...but every super moon i miss not having a moonphase!

hopefully i've painted a good portrait with enough detail of what types of watches i go for...so would appreciate any feedback on the above or any candidates that i am missing.

thanks
 

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Hi All-

Have a SS aquanaut as my day to day watch. Have been looking around/doing some rsch on a dress watch.

Would like it to be:

1) manual wind
2) three hander
3) 40mm or less
4) < 10mm thick
5) up to $25K MSRP (hopefully below $20K after negotiation)
6) I'm not much of a complications guy so most i would want is sub-seconds or moonphase.
7) Batons or arabic numerals fine; not a fan of roman numerals

Models I like so far are:

1) ALS 1815 (i prefer the 2014 model at 38.5mm; would consider up/down also but a little too busy for me)
2) Saxonia manual (at 37mm, would still NOT be too small on my wrist. The 40mm Saxonia thin is not for me given it's only two hands)
3) FPJ Chronometre Bleu (have looked at it a few times at boutique in nyc - indeed a beauty; and of course abukalb has sold all of us on its merits!)
4) none of the Calatravas (with possible exception of 5296g-001) or Patrimonys sing to me
5) even though it's an automatic, i like the parmagiani tonda 1950 in white gold with graphite dial...but am troubled by the big beating it takes in retaining value once you walk out the door so would only buy it at huge discount from AD.
6) I had SS JLC Mut Moon - while i loved how the dial was laid out, i was bothered by the silver hands on a silver sunburst dial (it makes it hard to see the time easily [at least to me] when there is no contrast between hands, dial, and baton...but a MUT Moon in gold is a serious option -- the eggshell dial and blue moonphase is sublime...i know, it's not an auto...but every super moon i miss not having a moonphase!

hopefully i've painted a good portrait with enough detail of what types of watches i go for...so would appreciate any feedback on the above or any candidates that i am missing.

thanks
I had a Saxonia thin before and I can tell you it wears large. It will wear similar to the MUT moon. Classy watch, love it and missed it (it's on my brother's wrist right now so I wont complain too much)...
Have you look at a PP 5196 manual wind? The platinum 5196 is absolutely sizzingly sexy (and IMO the best in class for a simple dress watch in the world right now) if you can save up for that one.
Another piece I would look at if you are into ultra-thin models is Piaget Altiplano. It's very modern and not for everyone, but it's very bold and beautiful. I just find that watch actually too thin, if that is actually possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks. I've looked at the 5196p - a little out of my desire price range, but beyond that, it doesn't have enough color contrast for me...briefly looked at Piagets at the boutique in Vegas at the Wynn - not my cup of tea either.

I had a Saxonia thin before and I can tell you it wears large. It will wear similar to the MUT moon. Classy watch, love it and missed it (it's on my brother's wrist right now so I wont complain too much)...
Have you look at a PP 5196 manual wind? The platinum 5196 is absolutely sizzingly sexy (and IMO the best in class for a simple dress watch in the world right now) if you can save up for that one.
Another piece I would look at if you are into ultra-thin models is Piaget Altiplano. It's very modern and not for everyone, but it's very bold and beautiful. I just find that watch actually too thin, if that is actually possible.
 

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I had a Saxonia thin before and I can tell you it wears large. It will wear similar to the MUT moon. Classy watch, love it and missed it (it's on my brother's wrist right now so I wont complain too much)...
Have you look at a PP 5196 manual wind? The platinum 5196 is absolutely sizzingly sexy (and IMO the best in class for a simple dress watch in the world right now) if you can save up for that one.
Another piece I would look at if you are into ultra-thin models is Piaget Altiplano. It's very modern and not for everyone, but it's very bold and beautiful. I just find that watch actually too thin, if that is actually possible.
Totally in agreement, the epitome of class imo . . .
 

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Well, you have a PP so it's not a matter of needing to find something impressive, so to speak. Since you don't care for any of the Calatravas, that leaves the PP Eclipse or Gondolo from them. AP ton of options in their Jules Audemar collection, so you'll just have to look through it to see if something strikes you.

With that in mind, I'm going to suggest some watches/brands that are every bit PP's equal in terms of finish and engineering, although they are by makers who are less well known. I tend to think of these, like the FPJ you mentioned, as "insiders" watches because one won't find anyone wearing them that isn't pretty savvy about watches. You won't find them 9except for the last one) at every high end mall you go to. So here they are:
  • Piaget: Altiplano or Emperador. It doesn't get thinner and if thin is your thing, they should be top of your list; it's what they do and have done for years and years.

    The Altiplano (Altiplano Ultra-Thin Watch Collection - Piaget Luxury Watches Online) is contemporary in its design and feeling, similar to the Saxonia, but far thinner. There are several dial designs and sizes from which to choose. It has surprising heft considering that you'll easily encounter drinking glasses that are thicker, but heavy it is not.

    The Emperador, which is part of the Black Tie collection (Black Tie Watch Collection - Piaget Luxury Watches Online), has several variations, but all of them are fairly traditional and they are rectangular, which is nice in a dress watch. If the history/pedigree thing matters to you, dig into Piaget. You'll find that they've been doing their thing since the 1800s and that they've been a manufacture since day one. Indeed, they began their existence making fine movements for others and after than began to produce completed watches.
  • Arnold & Son: I know you said you aren't a "complications guy," but the Perpetual Moon in black (well within your targeted price range) is stunning, and even more so in rose gold and blue (lists for ~$30K, but you should have no trouble getting a very nice discount to keep it well below $25K). Their uncompllicated HMS watches are also incredible. Be aware that the movement finishing varies by the dial color. The dark grey one has an additional aesthetic aspect to the finish of the movement. (Note: I am guessing something happened to A&S's website and they they haven't gone out of business. I tried to access it to provide the link to them, but could not get to it.)
  • Rolex Cellini: The brand is certainly not an "insider's" brand, but the Cellini collection watches probably are. It's where you'll find the sort of high end finishing that is not found in the Oyster line. Three models to choose from, and it's worth noting that the details of aesthetic design changes pretty often, far more so than with an Oyster, although the general shape and design ethos of each model is consistent. As with Oysters, the rock solid reliability and ease of ownership and everything else that there is to appreciate about Rolex is there.
Edit: (forgot to mention this)
Each of the watches you mentioned in your OP is fine too. I wouldn't, right now, buy a Saxonia or FPJ because they don't allow me option of sending them to local watchmakers for service. Were I not constantly on the road and away from home, I wouldn't mind. Both, however, are on my list to get once I retire, that is if I still care then about maintaining my hobby.


All the best.

If you always make the right decision, the safe decision, the one most people make, you will be the same as everyone else.
― Paul Arden
 
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I had the Saxonia thin and the FP Journe Cronometre Bleu. I end up selling both, in my case no complication dress watches have little wrist time. But if I was force to buy a strict dress watch, would be the Chronometre Bleu , it has more going on that would make me come back to it. The only dress watch I recommend (probably because is not 100% strict watch, lol)





Cheers !
 

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Beautiful Mark! This thing is calling still, thought I got it out of my system but . . .
 

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I had the Saxonia thin and the FP Journe Cronometre Bleu. I end up selling both, in my case no complication dress watches have little wrist time. But if I was force to buy a strict dress watch, would be the Chronometre Bleu , it has more going on that would make me come back to it. The only dress watch I recommend (probably because is not 100% strict watch, lol)





Cheers !
OMG, never thought the Bleu feel this good before!
 

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I just saw this thread lol

I must say the new collection of FPJ with gold dials are as dressy as a Journe gets in my opinion. With your price range however, id say the RG is the way to go. Next to that a 38mm CS with the classic dial and then last but not least the Chronometre Bleu. Personally, i dont find the CB to be a dress watch. As Jorge mentioned its a little bit more and to me dress seems to be plain white dial.

Shoot me a PM if you are looking for a Journe AD.
 
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