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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Everyone,

I’ve been thinking long and hard about my next purchase and the high end SS sports watch is calling to me. Currently I have a rose gold Lange 1815 and a rose gold Yacht Master on oysterflex, but I’d like a nice SS piece that isn’t quite as attention grabbing as rose gold and still versatile.

I’ve always been attracted to the allure of royal oaks. Tried on the 41mm 15500 and it just felt too large on me. I can pull it off, but it just felt like it wore larger than it should on my 7 inch wrist. All a matter of preference of course, but that was my takeaway, which is a little bit of a bummer because the new movement is really beautiful.

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I tried on a gold version of the 38mm chrono, and while the aesthetic of the gold wasn’t to my taste (or wallet), the size felt great on my wrist. Wish it was just a hair thinner, but not a dealbreaker for me. Convention wisdom is that the ROs wear 1-2mm bigger than they are sized, and feel like that’s true, largely because the ends of the bracelet are quite wide so as to match the width of the lugs of the case.


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I’ve been looking through the photos of the steel version, and the grey one looks beautiful. To be honest, I have a slightly stronger pull to the silver/blue panda, but on such a visually attention grabbing watch like the RO, I think realistically it’s a little too over the top for me. They grey seems less flashy, but still retains a lot of visual interest of different patterns and still plays with the light. I Also think the grey will stand the test of time a little better. Some photos by way of Hodinkee:

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Now the downsides of the 38mm RO....Probably most annoying is that I actually don’t really care much for the chronograph complication. It’s a bit of a shame to to have to pay a premium ($4.6k, mind you) for a complication whose functionality I’m not particularly yearning for. It does ad some nice visual flourish to the dial, but you could also make the case for the simplicity of the time-only variant. The second thing that is a bit irksome is the off-center date window: it’s not centered between 4 and 5 o’clock, being closer to 5, which is a minor design irritant. Luckily with the grey dial, it uses a grey date wheel so it minimizes the visual impact of the date window. The chrono not an in-house movement, despite using trusty the F. Piguet 1185, without a display case back. Not the end of the world, but the movement can be had in much less expensive watches. It’s only a matter of time before AP moves its in house movement form the 11:59 to its royal oak chronograph, though I would not expect it to make its way to the 38mm version as the movement itself is quite large. But this means that the 38mm version will eventually be relegated to second class citizen in the AP lineup, and affect potential resale value. But the size and the bracelet make it stunner.

So, now on to the Vacheron Overseas time and date....

One thing to note is that I’ve been yearning for a Journe Chronometre Bleu for a few years now. At this point, I’ve basically given up as I just don’t want to pay secondary market prices for access...$35k+ just stings too hard....and the Journe boutique with their allocation mechanism (i.e. conditional selling) renders it pretty much impossible for me to access a new one unless I buy another one of their watches first, which currently isn’t in the cards.

So the blue dial Overseas piqued my interest with its deep blue dial. I had the chance to try on the 42.5mm chronograph and liked the dial, but didn’t love the chrono complication and the size was a little to big (and a little too thick) for my liking.

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So I’ve concluded that the 41mm time and date version may be a good way to go: less expensive, smaller size and thinner (though still about the same thickness as the 38mm RO chrono), and an uncluttered dial to allow that blue to shine. It’s also just so practical. The strap release system is magical, it comes with rubber and leather straps, it has 150M water resistance, longer power reserve than the RO, display case back, anti magnetic. Being more adaptable, it may end up getting more wrist time than the RO. Vacheron also seems to be on the upswing, so that’s a nice little plus. It feels a little less special than the RO, but also more practical with more utility. At this price, that may be a good thing.

But I still haven’t tried it on so I’m not sure. Of course, there’s a question of access, but within a few months I should be able to acquire either at retail I think. I’d love to hear what the community thinks, and if anyone has had experience with one or both of these pieces.
 

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What about the 37 mm ROs (date only)? You think they are too small for your wrist? I agree on the de-centered date on the 38 mm chrono. It would drive me nuts


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If you are looking at the case and bracelet finishing - definitely go with the ROC.

Go with VC if you are looking for a much better dial finishing (better by a lot) especially for the non-white dials.

Fyi, VC does wear big, it feels like I'm wearing a 41mm ROC, while the 38mm ROC sits better on the wrist
 

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I was in the same camp, had a 15400 (also 7" wrist) and it was too big. Have a 15300 now and its perfect. Have you considered tracking one of those down? Easier and less expensive than a 202, and in my opinion, better with the quickset date, screw down crown and second hand. Food for thought!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I sort of always assumed that this would be a little too small...but I've actually never tried it on. Thinking this is a good idea, at the very least for information purposes, if I'm going to be spending this amount on a new piece. Just need to get my hands on one to try it on.

I have tried on an older 90s 36mm and felt it was too small so that's how I arrived at the assumption but should probably reconsider - it's the lowest cost option and solves the date window issue.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
This is a great idea....just gotta track one down in person first and try it on! But I'll add that to the list of things to look into, in addition to the current 37mm variant. I do think 39mm is the perfect sweet spot. Pre owned has its own set of challenges - finding a trustworthy source, bracelet stretch, etc. But I'll add that to the research list

The 15202 is impossible :)
 

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This is a great idea....just gotta track one down in person first and try it on! But I'll add that to the list of things to look into, in addition to the current 37mm variant. I do think 39mm is the perfect sweet spot

The 15202 is impossible :)
Find a 15300. Blue will be hard but white or black shouldn't be too difficult.


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I actually think the 15500 looks great on you; however, if you think it's too big, then it is. The blue VCO is absolutely beautiful, but I can't get past the fact that it doesn't hack. My current favorite steel sports watch is the GO Seventies Panorama Date. I suspect, though, that at 41 mm square, it will wear large on you.
 

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TBH I find the finer finishing on both of these watches not really up to the price point...but that's a complaint toward big name Swiss brands in general.

CB is impossible, I talked to a few AD's out of curiosity and they won't even offer a spot on the list. That said, in the interest of putting stuff out there...Laurent Ferrier has a couple readily available steel pieces. Or a used chronometre souverain if you're not set on steel.
 

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I had been down that road before.

Quick takeaways (wrist is 6.7"):
- Tried 15450: looks a bit small on me
- Tried 15300: the white dial is very flat compared to silver 15400
- Tried APRO chrono (new version): too big and thick
- Tried VC Chrono: too big and thick
- Tried VC time-only and dual time: very nice fit and features, especially blue dial
- Finally got my hands on silver 15400 and chose this one, with blue VCO as a close second
 

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I had batted between a APRO 15300 (prior 39mm) and VCOS 4500v (OS Gen 3). VCOS ended up being an easy decision after first 5 considerations were assessed:

- Relatively didn't care about resale, wanted one with a design that stood out to my tastes (+1 VC)
- Micro adjust bracelet nearly a must, and the Gen3 has a great double micro adjust (+1 VC)
- Instant strap change without tools or having to spend more on the strap (+1 VC)
- Newer current model that's available (+1 VC)
- Great finishing without reputation of scratching because you looked at it (+1 VC)
 

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I have a smaller wrist and went with the VC Overseas with blue dial. The strap option is quite nice and I like the versatility. At 11 mm thick, it's more wearable under a shirt cuff or with a coat and gloves than many sporty watches.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I
- Great finishing without reputation of scratching because you looked at it (+1 VC)
Hah! I do wonder how the ROs stand up, I have seen rumblings about their relative fragility but may seem overblown.....the time and date variants have a double balance bridge....but yeah scratching has got to be hard, at least the first one
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had a chance to try on the 37mm RO variant, the 15450. Tried it on in a two tone, which I actually liked more than I expected, but in reality would never go for. But size wise....it actually felt good, as if I was wearing the watch vs the other way around. When I looked in the mirror it looked like a “normal watch” even though for an AP, seems small since we’ve been trained by pop culture to think that larger watches are the norm. Still need to try on the VCOS time/date though before making any decisions one way or another. But at MSRP of $16.5k, I think this just became the new APRO contender....just too much of a savings over the chrono to ignore

Thank you for the thoughts everyone and for coming along on this journey with me.

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Discussion Starter #17
TBH I find the finer finishing on both of these watches not really up to the price point...but that's a complaint toward big name Swiss brands in general.

CB is impossible, I talked to a few AD's out of curiosity and they won't even offer a spot on the list. That said, in the interest of putting stuff out there...Laurent Ferrier has a couple readily available steel pieces. Or a used chronometre souverain if you're not set on steel.
I’ve heard very good things about Laurent Ferrier but candidly don’t know enough about the brand, worth looking into. The Chronometre Souvrain is beautiful, but I think would overlap too much with my Lange 1815 up/down
 

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I’ve heard very good things about Laurent Ferrier but candidly don’t know enough about the brand, worth looking into. The Chronometre Souvrain is beautiful, but I think would overlap too much with my Lange 1815 up/down
Definitely worth checking out. Cellini has a few of them. The Galet Microrotor is arguably one of the best no-frills three-handers on the market. It's on my shortlist for a dressy watch, probably second in line to the CS.

Re: the CS, in person I find it much easier to dress down than the 1815. In theory it's similar to the 1815 series, but the styling is much more relaxed. I find myself still really liking it even though the platinum is probably a net negative to me.
 
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