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There's so much chatter about this watch that I'm already sick of it, and it hasn't even shipped yet. :LOL:

I personally don't care if one part of the bezel is IP while the case is DLC. My IP squares have held up beautifully, and this watch is more of a collector's item than some cheap resin square you're taking to the construction site.
 

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You guys will probably get a good laugh at this, but I don't really know what the whole "mecha" thing even refers to! (& I am older than most of you) Guess I missed that entire period of American culture, somehow. ;) Is it the Transformer-thing? :unsure:
That's okay. :giggle:

"Mecha" is a genre of Japanese animation (also known as anime) that involves robots. They come in all sizes and shapes but are often humanoid. They can be larger than a building or as tall as the average human. They can also be partly human (the android Mokoto from Ghost in the Shell, for example) or full robots (Astroboy). Shows such as Gundam, Macross (Robotech in the States), Power Rangers, Neon Genesis Evangelion all fall under the mecha genre. I think Transformers also fall under the mecha genre given that it is also based around robots that transform.

Anime featuring mecha reached the States as early as the 80's -- maybe earlier -- and gained popularity in the States during the 90's. I was introduced to mecha in the early 90's with Robotech and Gundam in the 2000's. It's more of a niche fandom but I like to think that as anime grew in popularity in the States, so too has mecha.

(Sources: Myself [a nerd], Wikipedia, and NYPL web site on "mecha").

As far as this watch goes, I have been lazily hunting for it LOL. It would be nice to have, but as the weeks passed, the burning desire to get one has faded. That said, that may change when I see folks posting them in WRUW. :ROFLMAO:
 

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I called a couple stores in the Portland, OR area about pre-orders and availability. They either didn't know if they were getting any or didn't know what I was talking about :(. Fingers crossed they pop up on the official g-shock store for a bit.
 

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That's okay. :giggle:

"Mecha" is a genre of Japanese animation (also known as anime) that involves robots. They come in all sizes and shapes but are often humanoid. They can be larger than a building or as tall as the average human. They can also be partly human (the android Mokoto from Ghost in the Shell, for example) or full robots (Astroboy). Shows such as Gundam, Macross (Robotech in the States), Power Rangers, Neon Genesis Evangelion all fall under the mecha genre. I think Transformers also fall under the mecha genre given that it is also based around robots that transform.

Anime featuring mecha reached the States as early as the 80's -- maybe earlier -- and gained popularity in the States during the 90's. I was introduced to mecha in the early 90's with Robotech and Gundam in the 2000's. It's more of a niche fandom but I like to think that as anime grew in popularity in the States, so too has mecha.

(Sources: Myself [a nerd], Wikipedia, and NYPL web site on "mecha").

As far as this watch goes, I have been lazily hunting for it LOL. It would be nice to have, but as the weeks passed, the burning desire to get one has faded. That said, that may change when I see folks posting them in WRUW. :ROFLMAO:
Appreciate the explanation. Yep, I deeeeeeeefinitely missed all of that. 🤣 But, the '90s was a busy time of life for me. No time for Anime. 😁🤣🤣

Truthfully, and contrary to my first impression, I think the watch looks kinda cool. IF it were a good deal less expensive, I might even consider it. But I can't drop that kind of coin on that right now, so.... that's one more for you guys to fight over. ;)🤣
 

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There's so much chatter about this watch that I'm already sick of it, and it hasn't even shipped yet. :LOL:

I personally don't care if one part of the bezel is IP while the case is DLC. My IP squares have held up beautifully, and this watch is more of a collector's item than some cheap resin square you're taking to the construction site.
Black watch, red highlights... I though that was all it took for you to buy a watch. It will be a shame if the TVA is not a subject of your amazing photos.

I wouldn't mind if the whole watch was IP if it was cheaper. It would be cool to have it get beat up like some have mentioned on this thread. For the price I expected all DLC. Honestly my biggest issue is not knowing. I want to know every little detail about my watch and Casio is very bad about that. I'm still mad nowhere on the titanium squares does it say that it has a sapphire crystal. I'm still mad that Casio doesn't tell us the kind if titanium used except for the TranTixxi. Some people have gotten info from customer service but I rather it be clearly stated.

I don't take my watches to construction sites but in my very safe life they still get tiny little nicks and scratches. My DLC TB square takes every hit right on its polished bezel. It still holds up well but time will not be kind to it.

Collector's item or not the TVA would look fantastic with some scratches and I will use it just how I use my cheap G-Shocks. They could release a TVA2 with the vintage aged IP of the V model.
 

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Black watch, red highlights... I though that was all it took for you to buy a watch. It will be a shame if the TVA is not a subject of your amazing photos.

I wouldn't mind if the whole watch was IP if it was cheaper. It would be cool to have it get beat up like some have mentioned on this thread. For the price I expected all DLC. Honestly my biggest issue is not knowing. I want to know every little detail about my watch and Casio is very bad about that. I'm still mad nowhere on the titanium squares does it say that it has a sapphire crystal. I'm still mad that Casio doesn't tell us the kind if titanium used except for the TranTixxi. Some people have gotten info from customer service but I rather it be clearly stated.

I don't take my watches to construction sites but in my very safe life they still get tiny little nicks and scratches. My DLC TB square takes every hit right on its polished bezel. It still holds up well but time will not be kind to it.

Collector's item or not the TVA would look fantastic with some scratches and I will use it just how I use my cheap G-Shocks. They could release a TVA2 with the vintage aged IP of the V model.
Gee whiz, A.G., thanks for the backhanded compliment! :LOL:

A few years back someone on here was obsessed with finding out what grade of titanium Casio used on the MRG-G1000s. They finally got a response from Casio Japan confirming that they pretty much all use the basic Grade 2 Ti except for the G1000DC "Akagane" copper version, which has a Grade 5 bezel only because it was the only watch in that line that did not have a DLC coated bezel. I get that people want their money's worth and obsess over the details -- that passion is what makes this forum so fun. I'm just poking fun at the fact that this thread has gone on and on about the same issue for weeks on end when nobody's the wiser because Casio loves stringing us along with little nuggets of info. They are masters of the hype machine.
 

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Yes I think I saw Casio tends to use Grade 2 Ti because it has better corrosion resistance then Grade 5 Ti. It's not as durable however. I'm sure the real reason is its a little cheaper and easier to machine.
 

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I wouldn't mind if the whole watch was IP if it was cheaper.
Absolutely agree. 99% of the people buying it aren't going to be bear wrestling with theirs anyway, but delicately gliding through door frames and fearfully eyeballing doorknobs. I'll take IP and even steel if it chops the price in half haha
 

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The paragraph is from G-Central. Sometimes I refer to what you say should be the "bezel" as the "case" or "outer case," and when talking about the inner case, I usually say "inner case," because I try to write for a general audience and not just G-Shock experts. I thought I made this distinction clear in that paragraph, but apparently not. I know G-Shock fans and experts often take the bezel to mean the whole outer case, but not everyone might know that and others may think the bezel is just the part immediately surrounding the display, as that is the traditional terminology for non-G-Shock watches. The suggestion as to why the IP might have been applied on top of the DLC, was to create the contrasting look that the bezel has from the rest of the outer case. I think I mentioned this too. ("It is possible that the whole outer case has DLC and that the black IP is applied on top of it on the bezel area, in order to create that contrasting look, but we cannot confirm this.)

Casio also often says "case" to refer to the outer case.
"Size of case : 49.3×43.2×13mm" refers to outer case and not the inner case that you think "case" should refer to. This is an English-language site.
its a matter of context, if you dumb it down and try to use the one term for everything its just going to confuse ppl more, even if youre not an "expert" you should at least know the right terminology and when to use it.
when referring to size on a spec sheet, saying case obviously means "not including the band" but when youre talking about individual components its easier and clearer to define each component. inner and outer case sounds like its all part of the one object.
 

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its a matter of context, if you dumb it down and try to use the one term for everything its just going to confuse ppl more, even if youre not an "expert" you should at least know the right terminology and when to use it.
when referring to size on a spec sheet, saying case obviously means "not including the band" but when youre talking about individual components its easier and clearer to define each component. inner and outer case sounds like its all part of the one object.
Thanks for your concern. I've used "outer case" in 3 articles, so not a huge deal, and there was always context to avoid the kind of confusion you're talking about. In the original paragraph, I was not talking about the inner case at all. I was just explaining later that I would usually say "inner case" if that's what I was talking about. I'm not saying it should always be this or that or not this or not that, or that it's not important for non-experts to learn the proper terminology. Like you said, it's a matter of context.

The whole thing was just about distinguishing the immediate bezel area around the display from the rest of the bezel or bezel case or outer case or whatever you want to call it, in relation to the where the DLC and IP might be and the contrasting look of those areas. It doesn't need to be a bigger issue than that, at least not for me.
 

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Can someone link to a good tool kit on Amazon US that can be used to adjust the links on this watch? Or is it recommended to take to a watch shop?
 

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Can someone link to a good tool kit on Amazon US that can be used to adjust the links on this watch? Or is it recommended to take to a watch shop?
That depends on the type of link connection used in the band. The above video is for a band using spring bars, which is what most of the GMW-B5000 squares use. But some of them, like my TCM titanium model, use pins and collars in the links.

Spring bar bands are very easy to adjust yourself. You can use a spring bar tool to remove each one. The only thing I'd recommend - and it may sound weird - but size it within a bag of some sort (I use a grocery plastic bag), so that if the spring bar flies off, it will hit the top of the bag and not be lost in your room somewhere. (ask me why I recommend that...) ;)

Pins and collars are more difficult to work with. Can be done at home, but if you've never done it before you may want to take it to a jeweler. For this, you normally will want a pin pusher to push the link pin out, tweezers for the collar, and then typically a hammer and block to reassemble the link pin in the band. There are actually good youtube videos that show the procedure and can help tremendously. (I recommend a video by Long Island Watch, for a Seiko using pins and collars. The principle is the same.) The tools needed don't have to be expensive.

p.s. here's the Long Island Watch video - very good. Pay attention to 11:35. That happens A LOT. Easy to lose the collar if you aren't expecting that. Also, Casios will be slightly different in terms of where the collar fits in the link usually. When you take it apart, pay attention to where the collar was, if you can. It will usually be fairly obvious where it goes back in - and unlike the Seiko, that probably will not be at the end of the link. (it normally inserts into the middle part of the link on one side)

 
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Hi guys, awesome watch and very interesting thread!

I just have one question: is the coating IP or DLC?

Thanks for your answers!

(I'm already out >>>>> 😆 )
 

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Pins and collars are more difficult to work with. Can be done at home, but if you've never done it before you may want to take it to a jeweler. For this, you normally will want a pin pusher to push the link pin out, tweezers for the collar, and then typically a hammer and block to reassemble the link pin in the band. There are actually good youtube videos that show the procedure and can help tremendously. (I recommend a video by Long Island Watch, for a Seiko using pins and collars. The principle is the same.) The tools needed don't have to be expensive.
I did my first pin and collar resizing with pliers and the pointed end of a spring bar removal tool while resting on the wooden end of a hammer... I only bent one pin!... So I would recommend getting better tools. Mainly the block that holds the bracelet while you work on it. Another word of caution is that the collars are super tiny and easy to lose so have a good working area where things can't roll away.
 

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I did my first pin and collar resizing with pliers and the pointed end of a spring bar removal tool while resting on the wooden end of a hammer... I only bent one pin!... So I would recommend getting better tools. Mainly the block that holds the bracelet while you work on it. Another word of caution is that the collars are super tiny and easy to lose so have a good working area where things can't roll away.
😲 😲 Wow!

I normally prefer quality tools - even watch tools. But, I've done many pin and collar bracelets. Some using a cheap pin pusher (which worked fine), and many others just using a watch hammer and punch, and block to hold the band. The punch is a thinner diameter that will go thru the collar to punch the pin out, and it works very well. (would not recommend that for newbies tho - use a pin pusher) None of those tools were expensive but I've never had a problem.
 
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Thanks for your concern. I've used "outer case" in 3 articles, so not a huge deal, and there was always context to avoid the kind of confusion you're talking about. In the original paragraph, I was not talking about the inner case at all. I was just explaining later that I would usually say "inner case" if that's what I was talking about. I'm not saying it should always be this or that or not this or not that, or that it's not important for non-experts to learn the proper terminology. Like you said, it's a matter of context.

The whole thing was just about distinguishing the immediate bezel area around the display from the rest of the bezel or bezel case or outer case or whatever you want to call it, in relation to the where the DLC and IP might be and the contrasting look of those areas. It doesn't need to be a bigger issue than that, at least not for me.
no concern or issue here, its your site, you can call it whatever you like, im just saying call it what it is. if you think your readers are having problems understanding the basics maybe thats a topic for a future article?
 

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Can someone link to a good tool kit on Amazon US that can be used to adjust the links on this watch? Or is it recommended to take to a watch shop?
i used to just use the pointy end of a $2 springbar tool, the forked end was rubbish but the point was fine. then i splurged a whole $3 on a pinpusher tool, plastic base to hold the band and a metal bar pin that you screw in. works a treat 👍
 

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I contacted Casio America asking which parts are DLC or IP treated, here's their answer:


That's more information than on Casio Japan's website, but it's also contradictory. Casio.jp states the bezel is IP treated, whereas Casio America tells me the bezel is DLC and the case is IP. That would however fit the official pictures where the top metal cover that includes the bezel literally says DLC.
The case is completely covered by the bezel. The only part that's even the least bit exposed is where the band connects to the case underneath, the three little prongs (2 being the underneath portion of the lugs, and one is the middle prong due to the bands proprietary design). And between the back cover and the bezel there's a microscopic edge running around on the sides.

In other words, it's not something that would ever be exposed to getting damaged, so need not worry, in all practicality the watch is full DLC ....at least where it counts.
 

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But they're both positive, which was my point, all the details they added and then they use a positive display like every basic square.
They make very basic squares with negative displays, I hope you know that.

Being a negative or positive display does not increase or decrease the quality and/or value of the watch.

This uses the premium STN display that all the gmwb squares have. It's the best display you can get on a G-Shock.

You can arguably make the point that it's not MIP, which is a fantastic negative display, but these squares do not incorporate that tech. They've only just begun using MIP, and it's mostly for the fitness type G-Shocks, not anything resembling a traditional Square.
 
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