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Jeesh, that was really stuck! Nice movement hiding in there ! I would never have been able to get the back off without destroying the case. I have an aluminum bumper watch with aluminium case-back, I cannot get it off the watch, I might try a Iron block and a sledge eventually :) just jokin..
 

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Thank you for sharing. I now realize many of my difficult to open casebacks are relative child's play. I admire your patience and perseverance in pursuing the correct restoration of the movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Fantasyvoyager,
I have an aluminum bumper watch with aluminium case-back, I cannot get it off the watch, I might try a Iron block and a sledge eventually :) just jokin..
Give it a try. If ever the lathe chuck can grip the back, it is a promising method.
If corrosion salts or even adhesive prevents opening, high torque will do nothing
but ruin the back. But a hard shock may crack the hard materials preventing
opening. As visible in the pic, the hammer was pretty small, and actually the
proceedure left no visible marks in on the back.

Regards, Roland Ranfft
 

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Great advice, worth repeating...Never buy a watch without a movement photo! Funny enough, I was last burned by not paying attention to the case photos. So many scrapped watch cases nowadays...I failed to discover a very nice Swiss movement was clad in a rolled-gold replacement case :-( Seller feigned ignorance but at least took the piece back, but I'm still out shipping.
 

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Good to see you saved this one - although it had a bumpy road.

I presume you accepted the non automatic winding as likely a minor fault when you left the feedback. It certainly presented well.

You can get some bargains if you buy without a movement shot - but as always it is a risk. I don't think the rule should be 100%, rather balanced against the risk and outlay. Indeed, sometimes I wish the vendor would not open the back, as I am sure some damage is often done.

Still, good general advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi DragonDan,
It does look like that was a worthwile endeavour.
Regarding the bare figures, actually no loss turned out, but only because my watchmaker
asks moderate prices for service jobs. Moreover I permanently look for movements to enter
them into my archive, and it is no great effort to include this movement under my radar.

Moreover I had a heap of luck: Usually these movements are dealt around 100 Euros
or more even as rusty and scratched cadavers, and only the (matching) statement of the
seller that his movement didn't run, kept the price that low. But it turned out that only
the train was blocked by some dirt, and after cleaning in ran (and looked) like a new one.

So only my special situation and some luck prevented substantial loss and useless efforts.

Regards, Roland Ranfft
 
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