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Hi,

I am considering venturing into my first manual wind watch to diversify my collection. I am looking for a nicely finished manual watch that is:

- Ideally between 37-42 mm if round, but can be another shape
- Ideally less than 12 mm thick
- Hours, minutes, seconds (power reserve nice-to-have but not required)
- No numbers or Arabic numbers with raised numbers a nice to have
- A simple, but elegant design that is both casual and dressy
- Face can be light or dark
- Guilloche decoration of the face would be a nice addition
- Stainless steel case with a sapphire display case back
- Nicely finished top grade movement (decoration is nice to have but not a must)
- Excellent timekeeper
- On a leather or alligator band
- Ideally, between $2-7k (broad range, but will pay for quality)

I would like your recommendations for makers and models to look at. I know very little about manual movements beyond a 6498-2 or 6497-2 are higher grade movements than 6498-1 or 6497-1.

Thanks,

Bob
 

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Dornblueth 99.2 ...



(borrowed images)

Check out the Dornblueth & Sohn website, customization is also possible to fit your requirements (including engravings).
 

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Kobold Spirit of America Manual Wind

soa_man.png
 

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Hi Bob. You lost me on this requirement:

- No numbers or Arabic numbers with raised numbers a nice to have
Do you mean you'd like applied numbers instead of painted on ones? Anyway, clarification might be necessary.


You should definitely look into RGM watches. Roland can make you a custom dial with hand made engine turned guilloché patterns. I've been to their shop in Pennsylvania and it's a real throwback. The 151 series is a 38 mm case, and their in-house 801 series comes in 42 mm cases. Any metal you want too. I think you'll find them in your price range also.
 

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I just realized you already have a similar Glashutte Original, so I will retract my previous suggestion.

My second suggestion would be a Manual Wind Grand Seiko (I know they have models with a power reverse, but I do not know if they are manual wind). Also some have solid casebacks, while others are transparent.

home_image.868691.jpg
 

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Edox Les Bémonts Ultra slim Hand Winding. It features the ETA 7001 which in my opinion is better than the ones you mention in your post but you will not get a full back display.

Here some stock pics and some of mine :)

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IMG_5180.JPG
IMG_5195.JPG
IMG_5192.JPG
IMG_5189.JPG
 

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The majority of manual wound watches these days utilize a UNITAS 6497/6498 movement in some sort of Pilot style or similar configuration. You're out of luck if you want a watch under 44mm, due to the larger cases needed to house the UNITAS movement. Unless of course, you decide to go with a vintage manual wound watch.
 

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Omega Speedmaster Professional is handwound, isn't it?
 

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WUS might be sick of seeing my watch, but... Baume and Mercier Classima Executives series might suit the bill.
The model I have, 8735, meets pretty much all of the criteria you listed. It's discontinued but there are still a few around.
There are some other manual wind models in the series that might suit your needs.

 

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The majority of manual wound watches these days utilize a UNITAS 6497/6498 movement in some sort of Pilot style or similar configuration. You're out of luck if you want a watch under 44mm, due to the larger cases needed to house the UNITAS movement. Unless of course, you decide to go with a vintage manual wound watch.
The Peseux/ETA 7001 is used in a number of watches, and it's hand wind.
 

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It's a tad small, but has great wrist presence the Nomos Tangente Sport Index :


Also, I'm not sure, but at the high end of your price range, you may be able to get RGM to make a watch to your specs based on an existing case + movement with custom hands and dial. Ha ha, after I wrote the last paragraph, I noticed your other post about the custom RGM 202 :).
 

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Scrap my suggestion above... I missed your criterion regarding "dress or casual". My new ML is definitely "dress".
 
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