While precious metals are absolutely nothing new in the watch world, some are a little more precious than others. With gold being a retirement cliché and silver seeming a touch common, it almost takes platinum to really make a material impact. When NOMOS Glashütte announced a Tangente Neomatik with platinum-class metal elements and a surprisingly reasonable price tag, I was relatively surprised. Did they knock it out of the park? Let’s find out.

NOMOS Glashütte is a fairly young company by watchmaking standards. Founded in Saxony just two months after the fall of the Berlin Wall by Roland Schwertner, its first Susanne Gunther-designed Bauhaus-inspired pieces came to market in 1992. Over the past 30 years, they’ve forged ahead with cutting-edge in-house calibers, timeless design and material innovation. As the second non-Swiss brand to ever win the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, it’s safe to say that NOMOS Glashütte is at the forefront of craftsmanship and innovation. It should be no surprise, then, that their latest Tangente Neomatik variant really pushes material boundaries.

Called the Platinum Gray edition and available in 39mm and 35mm sizing, it’s perhaps the pinnacle of luxury in the Tangente line. While the feeling of craftsmanship arises as soon as you open the box and see the flat, stitched case embossed with the Nomos Glashütte nameplate, unzipping the case really unlocks a whole new world.

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In fact, maybe Platinum Gray is a bit of a misnomer. The hands and dial aren’t plated in platinum but instead plated in rhodium, a metal in the platinum group. Thankfully, this is the perfect use case for rhodium as it’s unlikely to tarnish inside a case. For a satin finish, the dial is also galvanized, providing a nice contrast to the dazzling hands. Think of it as subdued bling, Big Tymers materials put to use in an age of minimalist aesthetics.

Speaking of minimalist aesthetics, all the touches that make a Tangente distinctive are on display here. Delicate hands, slim fonts, dainty markers. Careful design employed to make such a low-contrast dial perfectly legible and absolutely timeless. Enhancing this legibility is an anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal glass, one that’s rather effective in harsh light. This is a piece that will still look fantastic in 10, 20, 50 years. It should hold up for half a century too, judging by the sturdy lugs, solid clasp, thick Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap, and durable, slim polished stainless steel case.

Keeping this Tangente ticking is NOMOS’ DUW 3001 automatic movement. At 3.2mm thin and featuring a proprietary escapement, this 27-jewel marvel achieves 94.2% efficiency and 43 hours of power reserve. It’s also absolutely stunning to look at through the Tangente’s sapphire glass back, thanks to ribbed rhodium-plated surfaces that glimmer with surreal clarity. Indeed, accuracy is top-notch, although curiously not chronometer rated. Still, it’s a lovely movement that ticks at 21,600bph in a hushed, refined manner. Even if you hold your wrist right up to your ear, you’ll barely hear the movement oscillating.

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Indeed, strapping the Tangente Neomatik Platinum Gray edition on will imbue your wrist with a certain loveliness. The 39mm variant certainly stands out on my fairly small wrist, as you can see in the lead photo. The angled lugs help the strap fit beautifully, movements are marvelously fluid, the stainless case displays a mirror sheen and the rhodium-plated hands and movement are so reflective that they let you stare into your soul. With every day you notice beautiful little touches like impossibly small engraving on the crown, engraving in the rhodium-plated movement that reveals the brass beneath and intricate texturing on the sub second dial.

If we are nitpicking, there are some annoyances worth noting. The clasp on the 39mm model chafes the edges of the strap, somewhat disheveling them after just a few days of wearing the timepiece. The 35mm model features a more rounded clasp design that mitigates this issue, but it does look a touch small on those with larger wrists. In addition, the lack of lume on both models is moderately annoying at night, although the gleam of the hands somewhat mitigates this.

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Pricing for the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Neomatik Platinum Gray starts at $3,070 USD for the 35mm stainless-back model, rising to $3,390 for the 39mm stainless-back model, reference numbers 188 and 143 respectively. We strongly recommend popping for the sapphire back option, which bumps pricing to $3,460 USD for the 35mm model, rising to $3,780 USD for the 39mm model, reference numbers 189 and 144 respectively. That seems quite fair for a beautiful rhodium-accented piece with an esteemed in-house automatic movement and truly timeless design.

If you’re thinking of upgrading from something around the $1,000 mark, you’ll really feel like you’re getting your money’s worth with these pieces. With distinct materials, fine craftsmanship and gorgeous design, there’s lots to love. Platinum-class metals are back and just as hot as ever.

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