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Dear Forum: I have a new Omega Seamaster Aquaterra quartz which has a 1538 calibre. Is this the same movement as my '95 Seamaster? It seems to have the identical features. Thanks, Roger. P.S. why does the second hand never line up with the indices? I assume 'low qualtiy control' is the answer!
 

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Dear Forum: I have a new Omega Seamaster Aquaterra quartz which has a 1538 calibre. Is this the same movement as my '95 Seamaster? It seems to have the identical features. Thanks, Roger. P.S. why does the second hand never line up with the indices? I assume 'low quality control' is the answer!
The current Omega Cal.1538 is an ETA 255.461. It is a fairly old movement so it could be the same movement as in your 1995 Seamaster. It looks like that Omega changed the caliber ID of the Cal.1438 to Cal.1538 a couple of years ago for unknown reason as both these movements are in fact ETA 255.461.
About your observation of the seconds-hand and the indices: I think, you're right it must be a quality control issue affecting almost all quartz watches.
 

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About your observation of the seconds-hand and the indices: I think, you're right it must be a quality control issue affecting almost all quartz watches.
Not meaning to bash, here, but I'm thinking that this is much more prevelant among Swiss watches, as opposed to Japanese ones. That's my experience at least, but am interested in hearing other observations. My GP quartz from 1972, otoh, is dead on all the way around. My impression? When quartz was a special, exotic new technology, they really cared.
 

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Not meaning to bash, here, but I'm thinking that this is much more prevelant among Swiss watches, as opposed to Japanese ones. That's my experience at least, but am interested in hearing other observations. My GP quartz from 1972, otoh, is dead on all the way around. My impression? When quartz was a special, exotic new technology, they really cared.
I agree, Bruce!
Among my current watches, the Longines is dead on around 50% of the time, the Omega is dead on all the time. My two Japanese watches (Citizen and Seiko) are dead on all the time but they are using jewel-less "fly-by-wire" technology where the seconds-hand are automatically adjusted during a set up procedure (for both watches) furthermore in the case of the Seiko the position of the seconds-hand is periodically checked by the electronics of the movement.
I used to have a Seiko (8F32) that had a normal jewelled movement that performed worse than my Longines regarding seconds-hand positioning.
 

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... It looks like that Omega changed the caliber ID of the Cal.1438 to Cal.1538 a couple of years ago for unknown reason as both these movements are in fact ETA 255.461...
Gentlemen, I think it is an interesting and unusual act by Omega. Can anyone of you give us more details about what has happened, when and why regarding to movements Cal.1438 and Cal.1538?
 

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The current Omega Cal.1538 is an ETA 255.461. It is a fairly old movement so it could be the same movement as in your 1995 Seamaster. It looks like that Omega changed the caliber ID of the Cal.1438 to Cal.1538 a couple of years ago for unknown reason as both these movements are in fact ETA 255.461.
About your observation of the seconds-hand and the indices: I think, you're right it must be a quality control issue affecting almost all quartz watches.
George, I agree. The calibre ID differs although he is one cal.Eta 255.461
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you very much for your answers. I also own 3 Oysterquartz watches, and their second hands line up perfectly with the indices. Of course they were much more expensive than the Omega when new, and undoubtedly were engineered more thoroughly.
 

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Ditto. My SS GP 354.012 is dead on, whereas the X-33 can be slightly off. My EcoZilla also suffers from mis-alignment, but of course, I wouldn't consider it HEQ. It'll be interesting to see how my first quartz Seiko fares, when I pick it up Monday...
 

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Dear Forum: I have a new Omega Seamaster Aquaterra quartz which has a 1538 calibre. Is this the same movement as my '95 Seamaster? It seems to have the identical features. Thanks, Roger. P.S. why does the second hand never line up with the indices? I assume 'low qualtiy control' is the answer!
My Bond seamaster, sold first in 2000 or 2001 (got it pre-owned in 2007), has the second hand not lining up either. I also had a look at a few at the Omega AD and they were the same. I guess its just the way they are produced. I don't loose any sleep over it.
 

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I have a recent Aquaterra quartz and Bond quartz. They both mostly line up. There are a few places on the dial where they don't, be in general they do.
 

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I'm always astonished at how poor the finish is on the movement of the quartz Seamaster. Compared to the finish on equivalent mechanicals, the 1120 for example, it is dreadful. IMHO about the standard of the older Poljot watches .

surprisingly accurate though!
 

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I'm always astonished at how poor the finish is on the movement of the quartz Seamaster. Compared to the finish on equivalent mechanicals, the 1120 for example, it is dreadful. IMHO about the standard of the older Poljot watches .

surprisingly accurate though!
Don't forget the Omega Seamaster quartz has been available with different quartz movements. My Seamaster Professional 200m is fitted with the Cal.1441 (ETA 255.561) dual-oscillator thermocompensated movement that is accurate, beautifully finished and the seconds-hand hits the marks spot on all the time. A truly high quality movement in every respect!:-!
 

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Don't forget the Omega Seamaster quartz has been available with different quartz movements. My Seamaster Professional 200m is fitted with the Cal.1441 (ETA 255.561) dual-oscillator thermocompensated movement that is accurate, beautifully finished and the seconds-hand hits the marks spot on all the time. A truly high quality movement in every respect!:-!
I agree!:-!
 

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Unfortunately I was talking about the 'Bond' Seamaster 300 with the 1538 movement which, sadly, isn't quite as impressive. I took a photo of it a while back and I think you will agree that it is a bit of a let down compared to many:
https://www.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?p=363412&highlight=quartz#post363412
True, that Cal.1538 is not a spectacular quartz movement aesthetically but it is reported to be "surprisingly accurate" (for a non-thermocompensated movement). I'd rather have an "ugly" looking quartz movement that is very accurate than a beautifully looking quartz movement that is less accurate. Let's not forget: we are talking about a quartz watch movement and its main function is timekeeping.
Having said that, the Bond-style Seamaster with the Cal.1538 movement is not my cup of tea either.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No, it isn't a pretty movement for sure, but the 2 watches I have with this movement beat the heck out of my 3 Oysterquartzs in the accuracy department.
 

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but it is reported to be "surprisingly accurate"
Yes indeed, by me, a couple of posts up! indeed, it is reliably more accurate than my quartz chronometer from Krieger - even off the wrist!

Actually, I really like the outside of the Bond, I've had mine for over ten years now and I still really enjoy it. However, for me, part of the enjoyment of a watch is knowing that it is beautiful all the way in. The 1538 is a bit of a let down here, that is all.
 

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I decided to bump this thread because it has managed to shed some light on many of the questions I've had since I just recently purchased a new Omega Seamaster Professional Quartz with the black dial and bezel.

Unfortunately for me, at the time they didn't have the chronometer. Now I'm thinking about trading this quartz Seamaster in for an automatic.

How much cash, in addition to the trade, should I be looking at?

Also, any thoughts on my idea to trade? Where would be the best place to look online for a dealer with whom I could conduct such a transaction?
 
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