Oris Aquis bit more refined than Hydroconquest.
Also looks very good.

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Oris Aquis bit more refined than Hydroconquest.
Also looks very good.

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You mean refined in terms of case finishing?

 

I like the Hydro except for the lugs which to me seem too long. Of this batch have to say the Aquis. Love mine on both rubber and bracelet. Likewise the brand overall.

The Sumo is a classic but probably not the upgrade you’re looking for from the SKX.

 

I can compare the Aquis and the CW, I have a bronze Pro and have owned 3 Aquis-one in rotation , one gone, one about to go. My CW is on the chopping block too.

The finishing of the Aquis easily exceeds the CW, and IMO it's close to Omega's. Both have Sellita movements which can be serviced by any competent watchmaker.

The Aquis bracelet is excellent. Well made, comfortable, and attractive.

 

My vote goes for the Aquis. I don't like the look of the the dial on the HC. The 6,9 and 12 look too big for the size of the dial IMHO.
I like the Sumo but the movement is the least impressive out of all the watches.
The CW is another nice watch too, I like the new Sapphire one quite a lot.
However, there is something about the Oris Aquis that is unique. The bracelet punches well above its weight, the fit and finish is excellent and I just love it.
I'd go with Aquis > CW > Sumo > HC. I just don't like the dial layout of the Longines lol

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I feel the same way you do. The big 6,9,12 on the hydroconquest seem too big for the dial. The ratio on the Rolex explorer is a lot better. I also think the lugs are too long and I'm not a fan of the bracelet. It seems like a really good value, however, especially with the ETA 2892 and the ceramic bezel and cleaner dial compared to previous versions. The new C60 mk3 is supposedly a lot better than previous generations, according to some reviews I've read. They also ditched the water drop style hand and the wave dial. It looks really good imo and the coin bezel is also my preference.

 

I went from a skx007 to a Turtle and at that point I wanted to upgrade to a dressy classy diver, just like yourself. Longines all the way, heritage, class, best movement of the bunch. IMHO the Sumo is great but not a "dressy/classy" diver, it just to damn big. I'm not into micro, so CW was out. Oris is a fine brand and can be dressy and classy. One other to consider is the Seiko SPB051, I know I did, but thought it may be to large for my wrist to be "dressy". Much better option than the Sumo for what you are looking for. Best of luck with your search.

 

I'm not into micro, so CW was out.

A company that employs several dozen people, sells 20,000+ watches per year, has their own production facilities, and has in-house movement design and production capability (and supplies ebauches to other companies) is not by any definition a microbrand. In terms of company size and sales volume, CW is roughly comparable to Sinn.

 

I've owned a Hydro Conquest and handled Oris watches several times in stores as I've nearly bought one a few times. The Oris is a bit bulky imo and I just can't get used to it's character.

The Hydro Conquest is such a classy watch. Those crown guards, crown, hands, bracelet, even the case back, just do it for me. You also have the choice of quartz which isn't a bad option. The version with smaller numerals has the ETA 2892 movement which iirc only comes in top grade and is thinner than the 2824 in the larger numeral version.

I don't know what movement is in the newest version with ceramic bezel but it's my least favourite looking one.

 

Hydroconquest all the way. Though if you are open to another suggestion, how about the 37 mm Captain Cook by Rado. It's a dressier dive than the ones mentioned.

 

I would second the suggestion of looking at the Capt. Cook. Great watch which flies under the radar for most.

Otherwise the Oris or Longines out of the choices you posted.

I know this wasn't on your list, but I gotta agree with these guys. The CC is much dressier/classier than the others, the beads of rice bracelet is fantastic. The movement is as good as the Longines with a long power reserve. It is thinner and has a more unique look and looks great on leather straps too. I cant say the same for HC or Sumo. ...Ok i'll stop now.

 

Out of those the C Ward gets my attention.

 

Hard choice
Caliber performance: Longines HC 2892 (my favorite caliber) based caliber is better than to 2824 of the Oris Aquis, which is better (in accuracy) than Seiko's 6Rxx.
Finish: Oris wins here, but Seiko Sumo is almost on par, then HC follows.
Fit: Seiko is big, Oris & HC have different sizes.
Design: Matter of personal taste, but here the Sumo has its proper and different design that a lot of people loves.
Price: HC is known for having a good quality/price ratio, while new Sumo & Aquis are on more expensive for what they offer.

 

Yes - and - dial details, crown smoothness, bezel movement, overall feeling on hand.

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I haven't handled either, yet. I thought their refinement was on par. Thank you for your input

 

I went with the Aquis. Although the new grey-dialed Hydroconquest is definitely sharp!

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Wow, that looks gorgeous. Is it the 39mm?

 

If you are looking at the sumo, consider Seiko's SPB077/SBDC061 as a possible alternative - 'baby marine master.' If I were in the market for a Seiko dive watch today, that's probably what I would buy. They're all great watches, hard to go wrong. Whatever strikes you as most appealing.

For what it's worth, I replaced two Seiko divers - SKX007 and a 200m kinetic dive watch, 12-15 years of regular wear on each - earlier this year. The replacements are a certina ds action diver (ETA 2824-2 movement), the sea turtle conservancy watch, and a scurfa bell diver 1 (Miyota 9015 movement) with a black dial. very happy with both of them.

happy hunting.

 

If you are looking at the sumo, consider Seiko's SPB077/SBDC061 as a possible alternative - 'baby marine master.' If I were in the market for a Seiko dive watch today, that's probably what I would buy. They're all great watches, hard to go wrong. Whatever strikes you as most appealing.

For what it's worth, I replaced two Seiko divers - SKX007 and a 200m kinetic dive watch, 12-15 years of regular wear on each - earlier this year. The replacements are a certina ds action diver (ETA 2824-2 movement), the sea turtle conservancy watch, and a scurfa bell diver 1 (Miyota 9015 movement) with a black dial. very happy with both of them.

happy hunting.

thank you for your suggestions. I really like the baby marine master but I'm a bit put off by the hour hand looking so toolish/juveline being a large arrow. I also prefer shiny hands instead of matte. I'm a huge fan of the coin bezel and overall design, however. Would you say the finish is on the same level as the Aquis, though?

Really like both your purchases. The certina seems like an awesome value. In Europe you can get it for around 700€, which seems amazing for such a good watch. I'm not a fan of the bezel, though (both the shape and the material). I prefer coin or scalloped. The scurfa seems almost lie my perfect watch aside from the 16mm case. If it was 13mm or less it would be a serious contender.
Thank you for your input

 

I own 2 Aquis and I've owned a couple CWard c60s and one Sumo. Tried the Longines in store. I say Aquis by a mile. However the CWards are great for their price point. As much as I like Sumos they just don't wear well on me. The Longines are great however I can not stand the non tapering bracelet along with a few other nit picks. The total Aquis package is just awesome imo. One of my favorite dive watches.

So I would say Aquis on top. Then closely C Ward if trying to save some money. Other two are quite a bit down my list.

 

I own 2 Aquis and I've owned a couple CWard c60s and one Sumo. Tried the Longines in store. I say Aquis by a mile. However the CWards are great for their price point. As much as I like Sumos they just don't wear well on me. The Longines are great however I can not stand the non tapering bracelet along with a few other nit picks. The total Aquis package is just awesome imo. One of my favorite dive watches.

So I would say Aquis on top. Then closely C Ward if trying to save some money. Other two are quite a bit down my list.

I think the new CWard C60 (mk3) is supposedly a lot better than previous version. According to worn and wound review:

I really can't overstate this-the finishing of the Trident V3 is top-notch. While I don't have an older version in front of me, based on my memory and rereading of my old reviews, those versions were competent, but not exceptional. They felt like what one might expect from a sub-$1,000 dive watch, and thus were acceptable. The V3 far exceeds expectations. Looking at the vast landscape of Swiss-made divers, these sit right alongside Oris, Baume and Mercier, Longines, and others-all of which are generally several hundred dollars more.

This really got my attention. I'm leaning towards the Aquis, though.

 

I would second the suggestion of looking at the Capt. Cook. Great watch which flies under the radar for most.

Otherwise the Oris or Longines out of the choices you posted.

 

I have the HC and Aquis. The Aquis gets much more use from me. Great legibility. Nice lume. Outstanding bracelet.

 

Do you have the hydroconquest with ceramic bezel? I've heard the lime in the latest version was improved.

 

It looks like almost everyone is saying the same thing: go with the Oris
and you will be happy

 

It looks like almost everyone is saying the same thing: go with the Oris
and you will be happy

Yeah, pretty much it. I'll try at least 3 of them next Friday and hopefully I'll make a decision by then.

 

Hmm, never actually handled an Oris Aquis, but out of all of these, CW.

I have a Trident Mk3 C60 and sub $1000 it can't be best.

The micro adjusting clasp is so damn nice, you'll NEVER want a diver that lacks it in the future.

"Normal" lugs so you can easily change straps.

Oris has their off integrated lugs.... So aftermarket strap support sucks.

Also, it's a minor thing but IMHO it's a bit hard to determine 12 o'clock on the Aquis. There is no double indice or different shapes. You have to first find the cut down one at 6 then look up to 12...

Besides that, all other choices are great, although the Sumo isn't quite in the same class at the rest.

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Personally, of your choices, I'd go with HydroConquest. It's the best bang for the buck if only for the much, much better movement. If you are an engineer, that should appeal to you. Some people here often say that longer power reserves don't matter because they rotate watches, but once you get used to a longer PR, it's hard to go back. And don't forget the silicon balance wheel. It is anti-magentic and generally silicon keeps its rate more consistently.

 

Personally, of your choices, I'd go with HydroConquest. It's the best bang for the buck if only for the much, much better movement. If you are an engineer, that should appeal to you. Some people here often say that longer power reserves don't matter because they rotate watches, but once you get used to a longer PR, it's hard to go back. And don't forget the silicon balance wheel. It is anti-magentic and generally silicon keeps its rate more consistently.

It's the hairspring, not the balance wheel, that you primarily need to be concerned about with magnetism, and the HydroConquest is still running the L888.2 with traditional Nivarox hairspring. Some Longines models get the L888.4, which uses an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring, but the HC is not one of them.

 

I’m such an Oris fan that I can’t pass up the chance to recommend the Aquis.

 

I'm such an Oris fan that I can't pass up the chance to recommend the Aquis.

I'll say that the Oris Diver 65 is LOVELY.... I just wish it had say 150m WR or even 200m

Oh and maybe a display caseback

I think it's my favorite "vintage diver"

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My first choice would be the Longines Hydroquest newest stock, which has the L888.3. Why? Because the Hydroquest models with the L888.3 provides exceptional value for the money when it comes to overall quality by incorporating the latest technology, such as a silicon hairspring, a 65-hour power reserve, a beat rate of 25,500-vph and Super-LumiNova.

My second choice, after the Longines Hydroquest, would be the Oris Aquis. Why? Again, it provides exceptional quality for the value. Plus, for me, its overall aesthetics and fit are very appealing.

 

Because the Hydroquest models with the L888.3 provides exceptional value for the money when it comes to overall quality by incorporating the latest technology, such as a silicon hairspring, a 65-hour power reserve, a beat rate of 25,500-vph and Super-LumiNova.

I will repeat:

The L888.3 (and the HydroConquest) does NOT have a silicon balance spring

 

If Christopher Ward ever comes out with a (dark racing) GREEN c60 mk3 (or extremely similar watch, whatever they call it), I will "jump on it" and buy it.
They already have a black, blue, and white, and even some with a red bezel insert,
so it seems entirely possible that they WILL come out with a beautiful green dial and green bezel insert watch eventually...and that would be amazing.
You are right that the Oris is QUITE a lot more money. And that makes it hard to decide to buy it.

 

OP,
For a new full kit Oris, Topper or The Watchmaker in Stoneham, MA will do you right if you choose that route.

 

For classier/dressier I'd go with a Movado museum watch. Ticks all the boxes, except you can't dive with it

 

I have A LOT of watches. The Aquis on rubber is my favorite watch. The Aquis on bracelet is my second favorite watch.

Clipperton, SOL, Baikal, Blue, Green, Black/Orange:

 

Imo:
CW is the best value for money considering the finishing and specs, and the frequent coupons and sales, and the looks are quite versatile (though quite subjective), but not as "elegant" as the 2 other swiss. It should be noted that they, afaik, use base grade SW200s, which are "meh" at best (at least in my experience with CW).

The Oris Aquis is by far the most "elegant" (imo), with the clean look and all the polished surfaces. Imo, it's also a bit "too elegant" making it look a bit too dressy for a sports watch for my personal taste. It's also a bit too expensive (MSRP-wise) compared to the others.

The Longines is fantastic value for money 'cause you get excellent finishing and a movement that's head and shoulders above the other 2, plus with some variants you get a ceramic dial. The looks are a bit of an acquired taste (i thought it was incredibly ugly until they released the green model and then it just "clicked"... which is particularly strange as i really don't like green watches 😁), but this would be my pick of the bunch if you like how it looks 👌

The Seiko is just... meh. The least elegant, bulkiest of them all, by far. Average to below-average movement, and the typical Seiko QC, where misalignment is a feature, not a bug And considering their recent price hikes, i'd personally avoid Seiko until they come to their senses... 🤷‍♂️