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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Many watch collectors will be more familiar with Montblanc as a leading name in pens, but they will perhaps be less experienced with their horological offerings. Nonetheless, Montblanc has an extensive portfolio of models that includes anything from humble three hand dress watches all the way to tourbillon chronographs. Their watches are the result of Montblanc design combined with Minerva know-how. The best way to use this guide is for you to scroll down through the watches, stopping at models you find interesting. I've written brief descriptions of each model, but much more information is available by clicking the link at the start of each collection. Remember that, because it would be prohibitively long, I've only included one or two examples of each model of watch, where there might be four or five total to look at, so make sure to visit those links if you find a watch interesting. There may be versions of it you like even more.

TimeWalker Collection

The Montblanc TimeWalker Collection is a line of watches designed to invoke the feeling of racing. They tend to have very bold bezels with highly legible dials, and they make a good collection for someone looking for a chronograph. Make sure to see every TimeWalker model, with more information, including pricing, here.

We'll start with the TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic, which I view as probably the core of the line. As you can see, it uses very high contrast numerals against both their dial and bezel, aiding legibility. Despite their sporty and large 43mm design, the dial itself is actually somewhat refined, with a very pronounced sunburst. Obviously, all of these are equipped with a chronograph, a complication almost synonymous with racing watches.

A variation on the TimeWalker Chronograph is the TimeWalker Chronograph UTC, which, in addition to including a GMT hand, also has a rotating 24 hour bezel, so you can track up to 3 time zones with it.

There is an additional chronograph available, however, the TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph. As the name indicates, this uses an in-house chronograph movement, one of the more difficult kinds of movements to produce. Like the other chronographs so far, it remains 43mm, but it has a slightly vintage look to it, compared to the more modern members of the collection. A similar model is also available with the limited edition "Cappuccino" dial.

But the TimeWalker collection isn't restricted to chronographs. You can also get some very clean 41mm 3-handers like these TimeWalker Date Automatics. Most of the collection is like the black dial, with a more contemporary look, while the beige dial on the right, when combined with its brown leather strap, has a touch of vintage to it. Although not a chronograph, the 60-unit applied numerals evoke the appearance of a stopwatch.

Another version of that watch is available, also in 41mm, but with more conventional hour markers.

There are two special pieces in the TimeWalker collection, the first which is the Rally Timer Chronograph LE. Only 100 of these vintage-themed 50mm chronographs will be made.

The second, and more exotic, is the TimeWalker Exo Tourbillon Minute Chronograph LE. This 44mm watch features a fascinating take on a chronograph layout with a pointer date, and, of course, an exposed tourbillon at 6:00.

1858 Collection

The 1858 collection is an entirely vintage line inspired by the Minerva watches of the '20s and '30s. It's also arguably Montblanc's most popular collection. As always, we can't show you ever single different version of a watch in this article, so click here to see the entire 1858 line.

Probably the most popular model within 1858, and in my opinion, likely the single coolest watch Montblanc makes, is the Geosphere. This 42mm vintage watch, available in steel or bronze, features two functional, and luminescent, rotating hemispheres. Each turns with the passage of time, and the red dots show the locations of the Seven Summits Challenge. Models like this show that Montblanc is taking its watch business quite seriously and intends on making a mark.

If you like Montblanc's 1858 vintage looks, but would prefer a chronograph, you might try one of these models. The 1858 Automatic Chronograph is available in either a 42mm steel or bronze case.

[/SIZE][/B]There is also a special limited edition called the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph, currently available only in this nice green. As its name would suggest, it's a monopusher, but it also has some other differences from the Automatic Chronograph, specifically, that it's hand wound, and it's also a bit smaller, at 40mm.

Those looking for a dressier option in 1858 can enjoy the 1858 Automatic, which is available in either 40mm or 44mm steel cases with bronzes bezels. They look great and, thankfully, are absent an unnecessary date complication.

Alternatively, you could try the 1858 Manual Small Second, which in my opinion looks even better. As you may have guessed from the name, these use a seconds subdial and a manual movement. The only downside, at least for me, is that they're currently all 44mm.

A similar watch is the 1858 Automatic Dual Time. Like the Small Second, it has a seconds subdial and is 44mm, but now it's automatic and has a 4th hand, as well as a subtle day/night indicator below the 12:00 marker.

We last examine the 1858 Pocket Watch, a limited edition of just 100 pieces, honoring the 160th anniversary of Minerva with its in-house MB M16.24.

Star Legacy Collection

The Star Legacy collection is a line of dressy watches that focuses on classic white and silver textured dials. See every Star Legacy model here.

Because it's my favorite Montblanc watch of all, we'll begin with the rather wordy Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph, or the MBSLNRC for short. This 44.8mm watch features a monopusher chronograph, but its stunning looks are actually from Nic's 1821 chronograph. On top of the chronograph complication, there's a date, second time zone and even an AM/PM subdial at 9:00. Beautiful.

The Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is a very exotic, very limited, edition of just 28 pieces. The 44.8mm red gold watch prominently features a large tourbillon, the components of which have been decorated entirely by hand.

The Montblanc Star Legacy Small Second 36mm models are clean, old-school dress watches that feature nicely textured dials and diamonds on their subdials and/or bezels.

The Star Legacy Small Second is also available in 32mm versions.

The Montblanc Star Classique Automatic, at 39mm, skips the diamonds in favor of a two-tone design.

The 42mm Montblanc Legacy Star Calendar is a much more complicated watch, thanks to its day, date, month and moon phase complications, but still manages to retain a simple, dressy look.

These 42mm Star Legacy Automatic Chronographs are there for those who like the overall Star Legacy design but want either the functionality of a chronograph or the more complex dial that chronographs usually provide. Despite the complication, it manages to retain a very clean, dressy look, perhaps in part due to those beautiful numerals.

Another very classical option is this 42mm Star Legacy Moonphase, with an otherwise simple dial made more intriguing by the addition of a moon phase and a pointer date.

Available in either a 39mm or 42mm case, the Star Legacy Automatic Date is perhaps the most everyday wearable model in the line, although it could easily serve as a dedicated dress watch.

Star Collection

The Star collection is another line of understated, classical Montblanc watches. One thing that separates the Star line from most other Montblancs is that there are several quartz watches available here.

The first of the line is this ultra-understated 39mm quartz watch, the Star Classique Date.

The next is the ladies version, also quartz, but now with a mother of pearl dial and a 34mm size.

Yet another version of the watch is the Star Date (not to be confused with the Star Classique Date), a quartz 39mm version which adds more applied numerals.

Moving back to automatics for the moment, the 39mm Star Roman Small Second Automatic is a very classic three hand watch. I particularly like the gold accented model, called the Carpe Diem special edition.

The Montblanc Star Date Automatic is a bit more versatile, as it can be had in either 36mm or 39mm and with Roman or Arabic numerals. I quite like the texture on the larger Arabic numeral version.

The 39mm Star Classique Date is also available in automatic form. I really love Montblanc's flat white dials in person.

I prefer the Star Classique Automatic version, however. The 39mm watch gets rid of the date altogether, an improvement in itself, but I'm quite fond of this white dial and blued hands. It's distinctively Montblanc, yet also very understated.

Here's the Carpe Diem Edition of the 39mm Star Traditional Chronograph, Carpe Diem apparently being code for gold accents. The dial looks great with those alternating textures.

Here's another Carpe Diem edition, next to a non-Carpe Diem, of the Star Roman Chronograph UTC Automatic. Overly verbose name aside, this 42mm model drops the day complication in favor of a GMT hand.

The 42mm Montblanc Star Quantième Complet, again available in Carpe Diem form with gold accents, skips the chronograph in favor of an ultra-classic pointer date, day, month and moon phase combination.

4810 Collection

The Montblanc 4810 is a somewhat sportier collection, named after the height of Mont Blanc itself. Interestingly, for a watch with Arabic numerals in the name, the entire lineup is currently in Roman numerals.

This 42mm Montblanc 4810 Date Automatic is a very versatile watch, somewhere between a sports watch and a dress watch. It has a textured dial, based on the shape of the Montblanc logo, and an extra large date window at 6:00 for added visual intrigue.

A similar design can also be found in the Montblanc 4810 Day-Date, which is, oddly enough, slightly smaller than the date-only model at 40.5mm.

A larger version, 43mm, can be had if you like chronographs as well, with the Montblanc 4810 Chronograph Automatic. Interestingly, they keep the large date window at 6:00, which integrates nicely with the shape of the subdial.

Here's another version is the 4810 Dual-Time, in 42mm. As you might have guessed, it has a dual-time complication, as well as date and day/night complications.

The 4810 Orbis Terrarum is one of the most noteworthy watches in Montblanc's entire portfolio. This fascinating and beautiful 43mm watch has an in-house complication showing the rotation of the earth, but what really sets it apart is that day and night are separated underneath the dial by another disk. It's hard to explain in words, but well worth a look if you get a chance to see one in person.

As is often the case with Montblanc's collections, it's topped by a tourbillon, in this case, the 42mm 4810 Exo Tourbillon Slim. I love how the dial is removed to reveal the mainplate, and it's one of only a few tourbillons that can hack. It's even automatic, powered by a micro-rotor.

Tradition Collection

The Tradition Collection is probably the most understated and dressiest line of watches that Montblanc makes. Click here to see them all.

The Tradition Collection starts out, humbly enough, with the 40mm quartz Tradition Date.

It's followed up with the stylistically similar Tradition Date Automatic, which, of course, lacks the quartz movement. It's available in many different varieties, in either 32mm and 40mm cases.

The closest thing to a sports watch you can get in the Tradition collection is this, the aptly-named Tradition Chronograph. This 42mm watch is available only with a quartz movement, although that ends up making it relatively affordable.

Heritage Spirit Collection

The Heritage Spirit line of Montblanc watches is a series of dressy watches, made almost exclusively with sunburst dials and Roman numerals, and it even includes a couple of perpetual calendars. Click here to see every Heritage Spirit model.

The first we'll look at are the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendars, both of which are in a surprisingly reasonable size of 39mm. These are probably my favorite from this collection.

The Heritage Spirit collection also has its version of the Orbis Terrarum, with some subtle differences. In this version, the case is slightly smaller at 41mm, and the dial is substantially less colorful. I think I like the smaller size of this model more, but I prefer the more colorful dial of the 4810 version.

The Heritage Spirit Moonphase, also in 39mm, looks great, with a classic pointer date and moon phase combination.

The Heritage Spirit Automatic is available in either 39mm or 41mm, and is a great old-school dress watch.

Heritage Chronométrie

As you might have guessed from the name, the Heritage Chronométrie is similar to the Heritage Spirit, with dressy sunburst dials, but it has a couple of important differences. For one thing, it prefers Arabic numerals to Roman, but for another, there's a much wider variety of complications available. Click here to see every watch in this beautiful collection.

We'll start with the 44mm Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Exo Tourbillon Minute Chronograph, one of the most complicated watches Montblanc offers. Combining a tourbillon and a chronograph is no small feat, and I love that the chronograph's layout seems to be borrowed from Montblanc's beautiful Nicolas Rieussec.

A particularly fetching model is the Heritage Chronométrie Chronograph Annual Calendar. In addition to those complications, it also features a nice moon phase indicator. The price, at least for the steel model, is surprisingly reasonable for a chronograph and annual calendar combination, at $9,700 at the time of this writing.

The Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Automatic is definitely the most versatile watch in the Heritage Chronométrie collection. It's plenty dressy, with a sunburst dial and small applied Arabic numerals, but it still has the practicality of a date complication. There's also quite a lot of variety for this model, in both 38mm and 40mm case sizes.

The Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Annuel, available exclusively in 40mm, is a great alternative for those who want the annual calendar without the clutter of the chronograph. It's also available at a much more approachable price point, $6,900 at the time of this writing.

For a full-on dressy approach, try the Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Ultra-Slim, appropriately sized at 38mm. This hand-wound model skips the date and automatic movement in favor of a rather impressive 5.8mm thickness.

These two models are similar enough to be grouped together, but do warrant some special mention nonetheless. The first one, as you might have guessed, is simply called the Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Complet Vasco da Gama. For $100 more, you get a unique moon phase complication that represents the night sky above the Cape of Good Hope as Vasco da Gama observed in 1497 from the Indian Ocean. The second model is called the Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Complet, which is very similar but with a more conventional moon phase subdial. Both are 40mm.

The 41mm Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Dual Time is a very convenient way to gain a second time zone in an otherwise clean and understated watch.

One of my favorite models of this collection is the Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Twincounter Date, a reasonably subtle, but not uninteresting, 40mm pointer date model.

Bohème Collection

The Bohème line of Montblancs is a slightly more avant garde collection for ladies, generally featuring Arabic numerals, diamonds and complications, like moon phases.

The Bohème collection has an impressive five Exo Tourbillon Slim models to choose from, each featuring a visible tourbillon and plenty of diamonds. All are 38mm.

The Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewelry is a group of 3 different 36mm watches, including one limited edition, that feature an automatic perpetual calendar and moon phase.

The Bohème Date Automatic 30mm is a more versatile everyday watch, skipping some of the wilder complications and design elements in favor of the humble, but nonetheless useful, date mechanism. It's available in four different flavors, all the way up to a rose gold model with a diamond bezel.

The Montblanc Bohème Date Automatic is also available in a 28mm size, and, as its name suggests, it still retains its automatic movement.

The Montblanc Bohème Day & Night eschews some of that practicality in favor of a massive day/night complication on the dial, which adds a very nice element of visual intrigue to it. It's available in 34mm and 30mm sizes.

The Montblanc Bohème Automatic Date, not to be confused with the Date Automatic version, is a dressy, but relatively versatile offering from the collection. available in 34mm, 30mm and 28mm case sizes.

The Montblanc Bohème Moongarden is a very cool 36mm watch that combines a few interesting complications. You can easily see the pointer date and moon phase, but the other complication is a bit more interesting. It's a month indicator, but it uses the names of moons instead of the names of months.

The Bohème Moonphase is available at a more accessible price point as well, thanks to quartz movements. Both quartz versions are 27mm.

The Bohème Date, in 27mm, is also available as a quartz model.

Summit Collection

And finally we arrive at the conclusion, Montblanc's Summit smartwatch collection.The Summit collection is really a wide variety of versions of a single watch, specifically, the brand new Summit 2 smartwatch. The Summit 2 is available in a variety of looks, with a choice of stainless steel, with or without black DLC, and titanium. Each has a 390x390 display powered by a Qualcomm Snapdragon Wear 3100.

So that's our introduction to Montblanc! What's your favorite? Did we miss anything or make any mistakes? Make sure to let us know!​

6,541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·

974 Posts
Quite the long list. Quite a few really appealing models ( 4810 Orbis Terrarum, some from Heritage Chronometrie, 1858) but i think some models line could use some rationalisation to have more focus.

6,541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Quite the long list. Quite a few really appealing models ( 4810 Orbis Terrarum, some from Heritage Chronometrie, 1858) but i think some models line could use some rationalisation to have more focus.
I feel like Nomos has established something of an ideal model for a (relatively) new brand. Start with a small number of watches, constantly refine them, aesthetically and horologically, and expand as needed.
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