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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks, long time HEF reader here. I'm turning 28 this year and have had many personal and professional successes in the past few years and would like to reward myself with an upgrade to my daily-wear Omega Planet Ocean with a real high-end piece. I'm the kind of guy that just likes wearing one watch on a daily basis (I have a dress watch for dressier occasions), so above all else this watch needs to be durable enough to cope with the occasional bumps on doorways/walls, not crazy high maintenance, and an automatic.


Criteria --
Price: $8,000 - max $15,000 (would rather buy new with warranty than used)
Size: 40mm to 43mm, maybe could stretch to 44mm
Style: Sports watch

1) Is the ability to swim with the watch important? ________________ Not really
2) Is lume important? _________________________________________ Prefer it, but not a deal-breaker
3) Is a display caseback important? _____________________________ Prefer it, but not a deal-breaker
4) Can it be a manual wind or does it need to be an automatic? ______ Automatic only
5) A dark dialed or light dialed watch? ___________________________ Prefer dark, but either is fine
6) Do you want a bracelet or a strap? ___________________________ Either is fine
7) Is there a function you'd like, chronograph, GMT, date etc.? ______ DATE a must. Anything beyond that is great (I find Day, chrono, GMT all useful complications)
8) Do you like polished or satin brushed surfaces? _________________ Either is fine


Watches I have considered, but am not yet convinced on -
  • JLC Deep Sea Chrono _______________ LOVE this piece, but it doesn't have Date. If it did, it would be no contest. Hey if I'm dreaming I'd like it with a display caseback too
  • JLC Navy SEALs GMT _______________ Nice set of complications from an amazing company (date, chrono, GMT) but I'm not sure I love the look, esp of the faded finish bezel
  • Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chrono ___ I think this is a gorgeous looking watch, with all the complications I love (date, day, chrono, GMT) but it comes from a non-high-end watch company that primarily makes pens for the same price range as the big boys, that doesn't feel confidence inspiring to me somehow
  • Rolex GMT Master II _______________ I like that it is as durable as a Sub with date and an added GMT feature, but I realize it is not truly a high-end piece




Thanks, your suggestions/comments are much appreciated. Happy New Year to all!
 

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Based on your criteria and circumstances, this is a no-brainer. While, my inclination is to recommend some sort of JLC, like the Reverso Grand Duo, which has both a dark and light face, I'm going to have to go with some Glashutte Original options. Like JLC, Glashutte Original offers one the highest cost to quality ratios. You get a ton of watch for your money... and man, do they look great! Here are my recommendations below:

Get either a dark or light faced ManoMatic Lunar.

GO_PML.jpg


The back of this watch is amazing...

9002020204_back.jpg


Alternatively, the Glashutte Original PanoInverse is an amazing and unique watch. While the PML is a comfortable 40mm, this PanoInverse will grab attention with it's bold design and 42mm of occupied wrist real estate. =)

glashutte-original-panoinverse-xl.png


Good Luck!
 

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AP royal oak. Perfect as a daily wearer as it can do sport or dress duty. Since you don't need to swim with it, its 50 m water-resistance is fine. The bracelet is as high quality as you can get. And the tapisserie dial is mesmerizing. 15400 sounds like your size....
 

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First and foremost, please stop banging your watch on walls...even by accident

I had a lot more to say here but for some reason Wathcuseek is being a little difficult
 
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Well to be fair they're his watches so he can stick them up his *** if he wants to?

I vote for the AP 15400 as well (even though I prefer the 15300 but you want something that wears larger).
Relax, it was meant to be a joke but for some reason every time i try editing it doesnt work and none of the pictures or stuff i wrote after it would appear on my post...tried 3 times
 
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jlc deep sea chrono or breitling montbrillant b01
 

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Having issue with posting for some reason but in conclusion i vote for AP Royal Oak as i think 41mm will be pleasing to you
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the input guys.

The GO suggestions are both beautiful I agree, but they're a bit too dressy for a daily wear watch IMO.

The AP 15300 I really love, and I think it meets all the criteria for a daily wear sports watch, but I am a bit concerned about it being too finicky or needing to be babied? Maybe it's just wrong perception, but it sounds like folks seem to have issues with them regularly and servicing sounds like it could be a chore. Can owners of the AP weigh in on this? Especially in terms of using it on a daily basis.

The more I think about this, the more I'm leaning towards just going for a standard issue GMT or Submariner since I KNOW they can be serviced anywhere and don't need to be babied, and I like them despite them being ubiquitous. Don't get me wrong, it's not like I work in the minefields or am jumping off cliffs everyday, I work in an office so durability isn't THAT much of an issue, but I guess I want something nice that just works without too much fuss. If the AP meets those needs, then it'd be the top choice for sure.

But then again this opinion could change tomorrow! Hah how fickle the mind can be...
 

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If you got one thing right its that service costs are going to be a pain in the ***...you're talking a start price of $800 and there is no limit to where that will stop
 

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Thanks for the input guys.

The GO suggestions are both beautiful I agree, but they're a bit too dressy for a daily wear watch IMO.

The AP 15300 I really love, and I think it meets all the criteria for a daily wear sports watch, but I am a bit concerned about it being too finicky or needing to be babied? Maybe it's just wrong perception, but it sounds like folks seem to have issues with them regularly and servicing sounds like it could be a chore. Can owners of the AP weigh in on this? Especially in terms of using it on a daily basis.

The more I think about this, the more I'm leaning towards just going for a standard issue GMT or Submariner since I KNOW they can be serviced anywhere and don't need to be babied, and I like them despite them being ubiquitous. Don't get me wrong, it's not like I work in the minefields or am jumping off cliffs everyday, I work in an office so durability isn't THAT much of an issue, but I guess I want something nice that just works without too much fuss. If the AP meets those needs, then it'd be the top choice for sure.

But then again this opinion could change tomorrow! Hah how fickle the mind can be...
I have an AP15300, a GO PanoReserve and a Rolex Sub (3 of the choices you talk about). Which watch do I find myself reaching for more than the others? The 15300. As an everyday watch to wear to the office, it is perfect. Yes, it scratches easier than chalk and does not have the water resistance of the Sub but I dare you to try one on. Once you pick it up, you'll know why some of us rave on about it.

APb.jpg
 

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Post that Panoreserve please!!...im planning that to be my Christmas '14 special.
 

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Thanks for the input guys.

The GO suggestions are both beautiful I agree, but they're a bit too dressy for a daily wear watch IMO.

The AP 15300 I really love, and I think it meets all the criteria for a daily wear sports watch, but I am a bit concerned about it being too finicky or needing to be babied? Maybe it's just wrong perception, but it sounds like folks seem to have issues with them regularly and servicing sounds like it could be a chore. Can owners of the AP weigh in on this? Especially in terms of using it on a daily basis.

The more I think about this, the more I'm leaning towards just going for a standard issue GMT or Submariner since I KNOW they can be serviced anywhere and don't need to be babied, and I like them despite them being ubiquitous. Don't get me wrong, it's not like I work in the minefields or am jumping off cliffs everyday, I work in an office so durability isn't THAT much of an issue, but I guess I want something nice that just works without too much fuss. If the AP meets those needs, then it'd be the top choice for sure.

But then again this opinion could change tomorrow! Hah how fickle the mind can be...
Well, there's something to be said for robustness, and I think the Sub and GMT have that quality in spades. For sure, the AP RO is a more classy and less 'tool'-like watch than the Sub/ GMT. The links of the integrated bracelet are just so eye-catching in the light, and the octagonal bezel with those hexagonal white-gold screws draws the eye to the angular lines of the lugs.

It really boils down to how much you feel you need to baby your watch. If you can't stand getting scratches on the RO bezel or bracelet, it may not be the watch for you cos it'll end up in the watch box most of the time. I treat mine like any other watch, apart from avoiding swimming with it.

I agree on servicing. AP's servicing costs are not cheap, and I'm not sure I would dare entrust it to an independent watchmaker when it's time to service it. I may change my mind though.
 
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My first thought is Calibre de Cartier Chrono. If something better comes to mind, I'll let you know.

Why Cartier? Because their Calibre line is no joke and because their styling is one of very few that works incredibly well for casual and dress. (http://www.watchtime.com/featured/cartier-complicated/) - Story of how Cartier acquired their own watchmaking capability.

All the best.



 

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GP WW.TC
The most comfortable strap ever to wrap around your wrist. The rubber back is so soft its incredible. At 44mm it would not be the best for me but give it a try..you might like it
 
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Gorgeous piece...personally id prefer the leather as it would make the case PoP more. I wear watches on my right so i could pull a Journe trick with that lol
 

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Portuguese 7 days is my recommendation. I am not sure why, but with all critics from prevailing wisdom or myself, it is the watch that most often puts a smile on my face.
 

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I'm surprised you aren't considering a Reverso or Reverso Squadra. I would suggest at least trying one on. It's a JLC hallmark piece and one of the first watches specifically designed for sport use. IMO, it's one of very few watches that "get's the job done" for dress and for sport, offers a variety of configurations and has as much "brand appeal" as one could reasonably expect in your price range. At the upper end your range, a pre-owned Nautilus or Aquanaut would be an excellent pick, although you might be able to wrangle your way into a new Aquanaut, particularly if you aren't committed to 40mm.

So several other ideas came to mind. I know these aren't sports watches, but then neither is that MB you mentioned. Like it, these are quite squarely daytime dress pieces.

Clerc -




Vulcain



Parmigiani Kalpa or Tonda 39



Girard-Perregaux 1966 and 1945 - Not exactly sport watches.


I know you are keen to "poo poo" Montblanc because they made their name by making pens. That's a shame as their watches are basically Minerva, a brand that has long been very well respected but that ran into "hard times" and was saved by Montblanc. (When Montblanc Met Minerva « Sharp - Canada's Magazine for Men Sharp – Canada's Magazine for Men)

Another thing is that if you insist on "in house," Rolex is a very good choice. They are the only major brand I know of that build the entirety of their watches literally from the ground up, even alloying their own metals. Are there others who do? Seiko and/or Citizen would be my next guess, and there are likely some Grand Seikos well worth considering.

I know too that your budget floor is $8K, but in truth you don't have to spend at least that much? I know I wouldn't spend that much if I could get what I want for less. Citizen a few years back introduced it's first in-house, Citizen branded luxury watch. At the time, they offered a 10 year warranty with it. I don't know the current status on that watch, but it's certainly got every-day looks (various styles offered) and durability and meets every one of your requirements. Plus, at a thousand buc you could easily buy it and a luxury Swiss or German watch to wear for other occasions.

All the best.

Maybe I was being too picky. Maybe I didn't want to be close to anyone. Maybe I'd just be the type who couldn't feel love all the way or something. I couldn't tell what was wrong, but what was wrong was that it just wasn't right.
- Deb Caletti, The Secret Life of Prince Charming
 
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