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Please Stop with the 39mm.. (rolleyes)

15K views 233 replies 77 participants last post by  CMSgt Bo  
#1 · (Edited)
(This is meant somewhat ironically/tongue in cheek, so please don't bother flaming...)

I really enjoy collecting affordable watches, and more and more when I see something new come out, it's always friggin' 39mm.. :rolleyes::rolleyes: I recently paid about €300 for the San Martin GMT in 39mm, figuring "how small can it be?", and since there seems to be this big trend to smaller watches, I figured it might work. Well, it looks like a shiny silver lady's bracelet... Yesterday I just got a Steeldive sub at 41mm, and I LOVE the size and fit... But all these companies - San Martin, etc etc.. are all just doing 39mm it seems.. So many of these watches would be so much better at 41-42mm...

I'm trying to sell my San Martin, and fwiw, I see these San Martin 39mm GMTs being sold barely used ALL the time. So something about them is not clicking. For me it's definitely the size. Everything else is awesome - they're just too d.amn small...

Still looking for an NH34 GMT dive watch, but man it's not easy finding one that ISN'T 39mm.... :rolleyes:

Not looking to start an argument. Just wondering if anybody else thinks the same way.. I know there are lots of guys out there trying to out-small each other, so will say 39 is too big or whatever. But these brands on Ali and Watchdives etc.. just keep pumping out 39mm watches. And I wonder how many are actually all that enthusiastic about them... I guess I'll get flamed, but whutevs.. :geek: Not caffeinated yet and just checked new releases from Watchdives, and it's just more 39mm bla bla...
 
#2 ·
(This is meant somewhat ironically/tongue in cheek, so please don't bother flaming...)

I really enjoy collecting affordable watches, and more and more when I see something new come out, it's always friggin' 39mm.. :rolleyes::rolleyes: I recently paid about €300 for the San Martin GMT in 39mm, figuring "how small can it be?", and since there seems to be this big trend to smaller watches, I figured it might work. Well, it looks like a shiny silver lady's bracelet... Yesterday I just got a Steeldive sub at 41mm, and I LOVE the size and fit... But all these companies - San Martin, etc etc.. are all just doing 39mm it seems.. So many of these watches would be so much better at 41-42mm...

I'm trying to sell my San Martin, and fwiw, I see these San Martin 39mm GMTs being sold ALL the time. So something about them is not clicking. For me it's definitely the size. Everything else is awesome - they're just too d.amn small...

Still looking for an NH35 GMT dive watch, but man it's not easy finding one that ISN'T 39mm.... :rolleyes:

Not looking to start an argument. Just wondering if anybody else thinks the same way.. I know there are lots of guys out there trying to out-small each other, so will say 39 is too big or whatever. But these brands on Ali and Watchdives etc.. just keep pumping out 39mm watches. And I wonder how many are actually all that enthusiastic about them... I guess I'll get flamed, but whutevs.. :geek: Not caffeinated yet and checked new releases from Watchdives, and it's just more 39mm bla bla...
Yes, I'm with you on this one. And I will follow you into the flames.

42mm -46mm is what I like.
40ish is ok with vintage or dress.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Still looking for an NH34 GMT dive watch, but man it's not easy finding one that ISN'T 39mm.... :rolleyes:
Spinnaker, 44mm
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Fawler, 42mm
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Oceanx, 42mm
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Out Of Order, 44mm
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Aigi, 43mm
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#7 ·
I'm on HerrSavage's side: prices go up and sizes go down. At the end of the day I'm saving this way.

I gladly wear my 50mm Zlatoust and I believe the correct size for an average wrist could be around 42mm, or at least there should be the possibility to choose, which the market currently does not allow
 
#8 ·
I believe the correct size for an average wrist could be around 42mm, or at least there should be the possibility to choose, which the market currently does not allow
Exaggerating much?

Scroll 2 posts up: I've listed 5x (five) 42-44 mm Gmt divers with NH34, currently for sale.

And these are Gmt divers, a rarer config than your classic diver, for which there's a plethora of 42+ mm offer. You just have to open your eyes.
 
#12 ·
Don't get me wrong but the ones you posted are all diver-style and all similar. I think each of us has a drawer (or two) of blue diver and -sometimes- it could be useful to get out of the comfort zone with something different and of adequate size (ie around 42mm).

Among the watches you posted, I don't see any novelties or particular stylistic choices, thank you, however, for opening my eyes and showing me the way of light, from today you will be my messiah
 
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#9 ·
I’ve got watches from 39 to 46mm. My wrist is7-3/8”. 39mm is a bit small and 46mm is a bit big. 42mm is just about perfect! It doesn’t help muchto try on in person, as it is wearing the watch for a bit that forms opinions!
 
#11 ·
I love the 37-39 mm sizes. Perfection for my 18 cm / 7.1 inch wrist. I mostly really dislike oversized watches. My first "real" watch was a 41 mm and 13 mm thick Seiko, which was styled as a dress watch. Much happier with my 37 mm GS and 39 mm BB58. That being said I do enjoy my 44 mm Panerai, but it's a different "feel" and type of watch to me.
 
#14 ·
Don't get me wrong but the ones you posted are all diver-style and all similar.
Normal: because OP was saying it was difficult finding Gmt Divers other than 39 mm. I answered with 5 Gmt divers between 42-44 mm.

thank you, however, for opening my eyes and showing me the way of light, from today you will be my messiah
Cool 🙂 my first commandment to you: "take a good breath, go outside, and stop fighting with strangers on the internet." Shu!

Now back to the topic...

I have an 8"/20cm wrist, I wear anything as small as 35 mm and up to 45+ mm.

I've never been mad at a brand, for offering a certain watch 'only' in a specific size, e.g. 39-40 mm, when I'm in the mood for something larger...
The offer is so vast you can always find something for you. In all sizes.

A lot of WIS (and I mean a lot) like complaining because the watch of their dream is 1 mm too small, or 1 mm too large.
Honestly 2 mm don't make a big difference if it's really the watch of your dream. If it's unbearable to wear then it was an error of judgement: there's a better watch for you elsewhere.

If you think 2 mm are the cause for discomfort, there are solutions like changing the bracelet for a strap.

Because every post needs a picture, here are 2 extremes on my 8" wrist:

Shanghai 8120, 35 mm
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Seiko Blurtle, 45 mm
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I don't think any of these two look ridiculous, but that's my opinion.

"Wear what you like, don't care of others."
 
#62 ·
Cool [emoji846] my first commandment to you: "take a good breath, go outside, and stop fighting with strangers on the internet." Shu!

Now back to the topic..."
Mougino, I'll get back to you after two beers last night (it's still over 35 degrees Celsius here, so I'm waiting to breathe better) and I apologize if I sounded rude to you, but it led me to that humor your assessment of how much my eyes see. It's true: they see what they can, just as it's true that I have a large wrist and for this very reason I'm also very attentive to the size of new productions, it's also true that the Diver GMTs you posted could satisfy HS's request.

My first post regarding the ideal size wanted to broaden the topic, rather than be a lamentation (considered that "ideal size" is a concept that everyone declines according to their own size and taste).
But again, forgive the sarcasm, it was not my intention to attack you, but a reaction, perhaps too hasty.

I therefore add, as a sign of peace, the photo of one of the 41mm (so we remain halfway) which I wear willingly and with taste, and which I also find suitable for less extensive and hairy wrists, compared to mine (the brand with the crowned octopus has already been mentioned and unfortunately for @HerrSavage ;it is not GMT)


Image
 
#15 ·
I have Phoibos watches and love them. I commented recently in that thread though that while the size and quality are great, I am not crazy about their recent designs and color choices. Pastel, etc.…

Number one on my current wishlist is the 42 mm OceanX GMT with a Pepsi bezel and white dial, but they are currently sold out everywhere. Supposedly they will come back in stock, so I am keeping an eye out for that… That NH34 OceanX is basically the exact watch I’m looking for.

if these other Chinese brands were releasing all these new watches in 41mm or 42mm though, I would have already bought a couple… It’s just one 39mm after the other though the last few months.

Still, at the affordable end, if you want an NH34 GMT watch it seems 90% of them or more are 39mm. Finding something bigger which I like they are very much few and far between.

Mougino, it’s not so much that I am “complaining”. It’s just kind of observing how things are and “lamenting” if you like that so much of what is coming out is 39 mm. It is meant to be more of a friendly given take discussion/exchange of ideas and observations, etc. and not an argument. The San Martin I bought however, it is definitely too dainty. It is in all of the respects adiscussion/exchange of ideas and observations, etc. and not an argument. The San Martin I bought, however, is definitely too dainty. It is an all other respects a beautiful watch. But 39mm is just too small, and especially that the bracelet tapers down to 16mm. That’s basically a silver jewelry bracelet as far as I’m concerned…(just my opinion, not claiming fact etc…)
 
#90 ·
"Still, at the affordable end, if you want an NH34 GMT watch it seems 90% of them or more are 39mm. Finding something bigger which I like they are very much few and far between."

I just don't see this at all. There are many NH34 based watches larger than 39mm. I love 39mm, bought a San Martin NH34 39mm that was not a copy of another watch (I believe....) and have been looking at others. I see few.
 
#16 ·
I have 8”+ wrists and generally wear 42mm, but I think it’s good that there’s more options in x < 40mm range at the moment. To me…39-40mm is a perfect size for all but the “wrist presence” peeps. That’s likely what a lot of the designers are thinking, as well (39mm works for most people).

My two cents…watch companies should not drive the size of their lineup to appeal to people that: 1. Got bit by the pizza snake, and/or 2. Like the oversized watch look.
 
#17 ·
if these other Chinese brands were releasing all these new watches in 41mm or 42mm though, I would have already bought a couple… It’s just one 39mm after the other though the last few months.
Ok, now we're touching the cause of the problem 🙂

There are 42-44 mm Gmt divers from microbrands, but they're all priced around 300€ / 400€.

Aliexpress has a good number of Gmt divers that are real gems (NH34, sapphire, brushed SS case) for under 100€, but almost all in a 39 mm size.

Parnis used to make bigger watches, maybe have a look at them. But biggest problem is they don't make sterile versions, so you'd have to be ok wearing a big Parnis on your wrist...
 
#21 ·
I get the gist of this, but not feeling a lot of sympathy. Has Seiko even released a GMT model south of 40mm? When Mido, Alpina, Certina and the like started releasing their traveler GMT watches, I'm not even sure any were smaller than 42mm.

OTOH, with some exceptions, real easy mod to swap guts from a smaller AliX watch into a larger AliX case. Ground-up NH34 mod or swapping things around, still all-in for <$200.

Ordered, waiting to receive a 38mm San Martin GMT, and thrilled they went that small with one.
 
#23 ·
I get the gist of this, but not feeling a lot of sympathy. Has Seiko even released a GMT model south of 40mm? When Mido, Alpina, Certina and the like started releasing their traveler GMT watches, I'm not even sure any were smaller than 42mm.

OTOH, with some exceptions, real easy mod to swap guts from a smaller AliX watch into a larger AliX case. Ground-up NH34 mod or swapping things around, still all-in for <$200.

Ordered, waiting to receive a 38mm San Martin GMT, and thrilled they went that small with one.
Yup. There is a ridiculous amount of 43+ mm watches out there.

I’ve frequently run into the opposite issue over the years. There are a lot of watches that I’d had bought if they were available in a smaller size.
 
#25 ·
From an onlooker's perspective (and ultimately what pleases you when you glance down at your wrist is the most important aspect), the San Martin looks exactly the right size for you.
The Phoibos, Addiesdive and others are pushing the boundaries of proportionality somewhat.
Probably not what you wanted to hear!
 
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#27 ·
I appreciate the observation. I happen to disagree, but that’s cool. Everybody is going to see things differently. But I personally do want a little bit of “wrist presence” or whatever one wishes to call it. I do not want a dainty bracelet at 16mm and a watch which looks like it is trying to hide itself. My aesthetic is a bit more “masculine“ or sporty or “tooly” or robust or whatever the right words would be… All of that can be questioned and made fun of etc I know. But that is just the look I like…

Wanting a 42mm watch does not mean I want to wear a dinner plate either… To me it just has the presence I want which a 39mm, at least this San Martin, definitely does not have. 🤷‍♂️

I have made the point elsewhere many times, but a wrist does not exist in a vacuum. I think there is sometimes too much of a tendency to think If your wrist is X size, then you must wear Y size watch. I’m pretty bulky up top and do not have long, thin arms, so I like having something a little bit chunky on the wrist to restore a bit of overall proportion ha ha.

The point being, you could take two guys with the same wrist size, but they might have totally different physiques, and therefore different size watches will look different on each of them. IMO..

From an onlooker's perspective (and ultimately what pleases you when you glance down at your wrist is the most important aspect), the San Martin looks exactly the right size for you.
The Phoibos, Addiesdive and others are pushing the boundaries of proportionality somewhat.
Probably not what you wanted to hear!
 
#26 ·
FWIW, the brands I generally tend to buy are Steeldive, Seestern, Heimdallr, San Martin, Citizen, Orient, etc.… So basically €300 or less. I check watchdives pretty regularly for deals and new releases. And my point was basically just in that sort of subset, which is still a pretty broad range of the sub €300 market, it just seems that nearly everything, especially GMT’s with an NH34 are 39mm. I don’t venture much beyond €300…

I might in the case of the OceanX, but I’m not totally comfortable doing it. I prefer to buy a cheap watch or two every one or two months, but spending €450 on the OceanX will force me to show more restraint.. And it gives me more time to question the wisdom of buying watches at all ha ha… 😱
 
#30 ·
One of the UK's biggest luxury watch retailers is Goldsmiths.

Here are their current men's watches for sale by diameter, from 35mm and up.

The vast majority of watches are still 40mm and bigger, so I don't have that much sympathy for people grumbling about a relatively small number now being made at 39mm or below.

  • 35mm (22)
  • 36mm (47)
  • 36.4mm (1)
  • 36.5mm (7)
  • 37mm (39)
  • 37.3mm (1)
  • 37.4mm (3)
  • 37.5mm (1)
  • 38mm (158)
  • 38.5mm (25)
  • 39mm (181)
  • 39.5mm (46)
  • 39.7mm (2)
  • 40mm (496)
  • 40.5mm (44)
  • 40.8mm (2)
  • 41mm (413)
  • 41.5mm (20)
  • 42mm (559)
  • 42.3mm (1)
  • 42.4mm (1)
  • 42.5mm (55)
  • 42.5mm X 44.5mm (1)
  • 43mm (281)
  • 43mm X 27.5mm (1)
  • 43.2mm (6)
  • 43.5mm (44)
  • 44mm (248)
  • 44.25mm (6)
  • 44.5mm (13)

(and here's the same for Beaverbrooks, another major UK chain retailer....)

Image
 
#31 ·
Sorry bud, if you do a 39vs41 poll, I'm voting 39.

That's EXACTLY what I was going to say before clicking into the post by the way.

Don't talk about 39, stop with the 41's instead.

That's what I was gonna say even before reading your post.
 
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