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Poljot 2612.1 service and reference
I had the opportunity to service a Poljot 2612.1 alarm watch recently and not having seen anything posted in detail about this movement before I thought I'd offer this up as a helpful reference. The 2612.1 is a manual wind 18,000bph movement with 18 Jewels and a 15 second alarm function.
The alarm can only be really described as a useful reminder function, it's not really loud enough or long enough to wake you up in the morning although placing the watch dial up and using a bed side table as an amplifying board increases its effectiveness, however, the alarm still sounds something akin to an inebriated Bee stuck in a tin can!
Here's the watch:
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It came as 'keeping good time' from Ebay, reality was it ran for 30seconds max. and was badly scratch in a couple of places.
Here it is de-cased; the dial was slightly marked at the 4 and 5 position which is hidden under the case chapter ring.
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This is the dial side view, note the two sets of keyless works (3) is the works for the alarm and sets the alarm hand in one direction only. (5) is the works for the main watch time keeping function, (6) is the alarm setting wheel featuring three offset and sized cutouts that activate the alarm, (4) is the alarm activate lever, (1) is a stud on the bottom of the alarm hammer and (2) is the alarm hack lever that engages with (1) when setting the alarm time.
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This is the wheel train side; (1) is the alarm hammer this hammers against a stud pressed into the case back of the watch, the stud acting like an anvil and the case back amplifying the sound. (2) is the click wheel on top of the alarm mainspring barrel and (3) the conventional barrel wheel found in countless other watches.
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Case back and stud:
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With the top bridge removed we can see the escape wheel (1), the fourth wheel (2) for the center seconds and the third wheel (3). The Center wheel is hidden under the secondary wheel bridge.
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The alarm barrel bridge and some of the gear train have now been removed and we can see the secondary wheel train bridge with the center wheel underneath (4) and (5). (1) is the barrel that drives the coarse tooth transfer wheel (2) and (3) is the hammer. The hammer has a shaped fork that engages with the transfer wheel causing is to oscillate back and forth.
Note: The center wheel and fourth wheel share the single jewel in the secondary wheel train bridge, thanks to Chascomm for pointing this out. Also the mainplate is not jeweled on the other side of the center wheel.
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Underneath the alarm barrel is the barrel crown wheel (1) driven by a small transfer wheel from the winding stem.
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A shot of the hammer:
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Continuing the break down, all conventional stuff:
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Here's the dial side undergoing break down. (1) is the alarm set wheel with the set wheel plate removed. The plate is sprung pushing the set wheel down towards the movement against an opposite and upward sprung force provided by the activate lever (4). (2) is the alarm set transfer wheel and (3) the alarm hack lever.
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Alarm set wheel sprung plate, grease pressure points upon on assembly:
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With the set wheel removed we can see how the three cutouts in it interface with the hour wheel (1) underneath. The lands on the hour wheel engage into the cutouts of the alarm set wheel once every rotation or once every 12 hours. When they line up and engage the upward spring force of the activate lever (2) pushes the hour wheel upward into the set wheel and the activate lever releases the hammer setting off the alarm.
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Here's some more detail: Hour wheel (1), activate lever (2)
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The pressure point or land on the activate lever, grease well on assembly!
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And here's the bent or 'hooked' end of the activate lever and the pin is engages with on the hammer:
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This is the alarm hack lever with the retaining plate removed for reference. Don't loose the springs.
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There is a large cutout in the mainplate right below the pallet stones which allows really easy access for oiling during reassembly:
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Parts:
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Mainspring and alarm spring for comparison. The alarm spring is a simple wound spring and is taller than the mainspring.
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Difference in winding stems, the right hand one is the alarm stem:
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One problem I had during the service was an off center and lopsided / angled balance spring. The glue at the attach point to the balance wheel staff had cracked allowing the hair spring to move and tilt vertically, I repositioned the spring to be parallel with the balance wheel and re-glued it in place:
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The other problem was a broken pin on the regulator arm:
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Luckily I have several broken Poljot movements and found they all used the same type of regulator arm so I salvaged one and installed it as a replacement:
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After a bit of manipulation I managed to get the balance spring concentric and sitting in the middle of the regulator pins.
Reassembly is straight forward; I used PML grease on the high pressure spots on the alarm parts and keyless works and D5 / 9010 elsewhere. Expensive oils and probably worth more than the movement!
Hand re-fitting is straight forward, wind the alarm a little and then advance the hands until the alarm triggers. This is your set point. Place the alarm hand on the alarm wheel at 12 and also the hour hand on the hour wheel at 12. Move the hour hand forward a little and wind the alarm again. Advance the hours hand and check it aligns with 12 when the alarm triggers, if it not reset the hour hand and try again. Place the minute and center seconds as normal.
Thanks!
The alarm can only be really described as a useful reminder function, it's not really loud enough or long enough to wake you up in the morning although placing the watch dial up and using a bed side table as an amplifying board increases its effectiveness, however, the alarm still sounds something akin to an inebriated Bee stuck in a tin can!
Here's the watch:
It came as 'keeping good time' from Ebay, reality was it ran for 30seconds max. and was badly scratch in a couple of places.
Here it is de-cased; the dial was slightly marked at the 4 and 5 position which is hidden under the case chapter ring.
This is the dial side view, note the two sets of keyless works (3) is the works for the alarm and sets the alarm hand in one direction only. (5) is the works for the main watch time keeping function, (6) is the alarm setting wheel featuring three offset and sized cutouts that activate the alarm, (4) is the alarm activate lever, (1) is a stud on the bottom of the alarm hammer and (2) is the alarm hack lever that engages with (1) when setting the alarm time.
This is the wheel train side; (1) is the alarm hammer this hammers against a stud pressed into the case back of the watch, the stud acting like an anvil and the case back amplifying the sound. (2) is the click wheel on top of the alarm mainspring barrel and (3) the conventional barrel wheel found in countless other watches.
Case back and stud:
With the top bridge removed we can see the escape wheel (1), the fourth wheel (2) for the center seconds and the third wheel (3). The Center wheel is hidden under the secondary wheel bridge.
The alarm barrel bridge and some of the gear train have now been removed and we can see the secondary wheel train bridge with the center wheel underneath (4) and (5). (1) is the barrel that drives the coarse tooth transfer wheel (2) and (3) is the hammer. The hammer has a shaped fork that engages with the transfer wheel causing is to oscillate back and forth.
Note: The center wheel and fourth wheel share the single jewel in the secondary wheel train bridge, thanks to Chascomm for pointing this out. Also the mainplate is not jeweled on the other side of the center wheel.
Underneath the alarm barrel is the barrel crown wheel (1) driven by a small transfer wheel from the winding stem.
A shot of the hammer:
Continuing the break down, all conventional stuff:
Here's the dial side undergoing break down. (1) is the alarm set wheel with the set wheel plate removed. The plate is sprung pushing the set wheel down towards the movement against an opposite and upward sprung force provided by the activate lever (4). (2) is the alarm set transfer wheel and (3) the alarm hack lever.
Alarm set wheel sprung plate, grease pressure points upon on assembly:
With the set wheel removed we can see how the three cutouts in it interface with the hour wheel (1) underneath. The lands on the hour wheel engage into the cutouts of the alarm set wheel once every rotation or once every 12 hours. When they line up and engage the upward spring force of the activate lever (2) pushes the hour wheel upward into the set wheel and the activate lever releases the hammer setting off the alarm.
Here's some more detail: Hour wheel (1), activate lever (2)
The pressure point or land on the activate lever, grease well on assembly!
And here's the bent or 'hooked' end of the activate lever and the pin is engages with on the hammer:
This is the alarm hack lever with the retaining plate removed for reference. Don't loose the springs.
There is a large cutout in the mainplate right below the pallet stones which allows really easy access for oiling during reassembly:
Parts:
Mainspring and alarm spring for comparison. The alarm spring is a simple wound spring and is taller than the mainspring.
Difference in winding stems, the right hand one is the alarm stem:
One problem I had during the service was an off center and lopsided / angled balance spring. The glue at the attach point to the balance wheel staff had cracked allowing the hair spring to move and tilt vertically, I repositioned the spring to be parallel with the balance wheel and re-glued it in place:
The other problem was a broken pin on the regulator arm:
Luckily I have several broken Poljot movements and found they all used the same type of regulator arm so I salvaged one and installed it as a replacement:
After a bit of manipulation I managed to get the balance spring concentric and sitting in the middle of the regulator pins.
Reassembly is straight forward; I used PML grease on the high pressure spots on the alarm parts and keyless works and D5 / 9010 elsewhere. Expensive oils and probably worth more than the movement!
Hand re-fitting is straight forward, wind the alarm a little and then advance the hands until the alarm triggers. This is your set point. Place the alarm hand on the alarm wheel at 12 and also the hour hand on the hour wheel at 12. Move the hour hand forward a little and wind the alarm again. Advance the hours hand and check it aligns with 12 when the alarm triggers, if it not reset the hour hand and try again. Place the minute and center seconds as normal.
Thanks!
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