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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello friends, I'm here sharing with you my experience on this calibre, on how regulating cams, posting my thread written on another forum hoping it will be helpful. I'm not responsible of any damage to your wristwatches!!!!


Here we go. Movment on my table, chrono on, fully working ( sorry for mobile phone pictures ):



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Cam 1:

This one sets the distance between the minute counter spring and wheel . UNSCREW PARTIALLY THE HIGHLIGHTED SCREW BEFOR STARTING MOVING CAM. This cam moves the spring tooth , a good regulation is obtained when the minutes chrono hand sweeps exctly of 1 minute at the "12" o'clock passage of second chrono hand.

You have to adjust this cam when the watch stops passing to the next chrono minute, in fact when the tooth is bad regulated, the second hand wheel and the minute hand wheel don't slip one on the other, hitting themself.
This regulation has not to be used for setting "zero" position of minute chrono hand..
You have to be really carefull adjusting this camme, this spring is really delicate and easy to break. Always use a movement holder!!!!

- "VITE" in the picture in SCREW in Italian, forgot to translate!!!

Cam 2:

It sets the depth of the engagement between sprocket and minute chrono wheel.
Acting on this cam if: chronograph minute wheel hard to turn ( too deep engagement ), or if operating the chronograph minute hand has a jump over his "zero" position ( sprocket too distant slamming operating chronograph ).
Note well that this cam also regulates the second wheel brake, so you can have problems from bad regulation, like wheel always braking or always free.
Acting with chrono turned on.

Cam 3:
This cam engages and disengages the chronograph pressing the button. Act when the chronograph will not start or stop

Cam 4:

This cam controls the depth of engagement between the chronograph second wheel and sprocket to the second chrono wheel. Acting on this when:
movement stops with chrono turned on, engagement will be too deep or too loose.
Adjust with chrono turned off and "zeroed".

Cam 5:

This cam controls the depth of engagement between the sprocket wheel and second chrono wheel.
Act on this when, with chrono turned on, the movement stop working ( too deep engagement ) or when the second chrono hand works intermittently ( loose engagement ).
Act with chrono turned on.
NOTA: after this adjusting check again cam 4.

Hope you enjoy, and sorry for my english, its not my first language!

NOTE: COPY FOR EACH OTHER FORUMS EXPRESSLY PROHIBITED

AGGIUNGO LA VERSIONE ITALIANA PER GLI AMICI CHE LEGGONO CERCANDO UNA DRITTA!

Vorrei rendervi partecipi di quanto ho imparato trafficando vicino a questo bel calibro. Naturalmente tutti quanti siete invitati a segnalarmi eventuali imprecisioni o errori, e... non mi assumo responsabilità se distruggerete il vostro amato segnatempo!


Cominciamo. Ecco il movimento sul mio tavolo, a crono innestato e funzionante ( scusate la foto fatta con il cellulare ):



Camme 1:

Questa serve a impostare la distanza di fermo ruota minuti crono ad ogni passo. PRIMA DI REGOLARLA ALLENTARE LA RELATIVA VITE DI FISSAGGIO EVIDENZIATA. Questa camme agisce sulla mollettina visibile, spostandone tangenzialmente all'ingranaggio il dentino.

Agite su questa quando il crono si ferma al momento di incrementare il contatore minuti, ossia quando il dentino della ruota secondi prende di punta l'ingranaggio della ruota rinvio minuti ( evento facilmente verificabile con una lente ).
La posizione garantita dal dentino non va intesa come regolazione dello "zero" della ruota minuti.
Al momento del riserraggio della vite, interporre se necessario un piccolo spessore ( es. punta oliatore ) tra la battuta della base della molla e il ponte a V con i rubini della ruota minuti e secondi crono, queso per applicare un precarico al dentino di arresto sulla punta della molletta nel caso fosse necessario.
LA MOLLETTA E' DELICATISSIMA, ATTENZIONE CON IL CACCIAVITE, OPERATE SOLO CON MOVIMENTO BEN FERMO SU UN PORTAMOVIMENTI.

Camme 2:

Regola la profondità di ingranamento tra la ruota di rinvio ai minuti crono e la ruota minuti crono. Agire su questa camme se: la ruota minuti crono gira con difficoltà ( ingranamento troppo profondo ), oppure se azionando il crono la lancetta dei minuti crono fà un salto fuori dalla sua posizione di "zero" ( ruota di rinvio troppo distante che sbatte azionando il crono ).
Notare bene che questa camme regola anche il freno della ruota secondi, con tutti gli eventi che ne derivano in caso di errata regolazione ( ruota sempre frenata o sempre libera ).
Agire a crono innestato.

Camme 3:
Questa camme innesta e disinnesta il crono alla pressione del pulsante. Agire quando il crono non parte o non si ferma, a crono innestato e non.

Camme 4:

Questa camme regola la profondità di ingranamento tra ruota dei secondi continui e ruota intermedia di rinvio ai secondi crono. Agire su questa quando:
Il movimento si arresta a crono disinnestato, l'ingranamento sarà troppo profondo o troppo lasco, determinando nel primo caso il contatto tra le creste dei denti di una e le valli dell'altra, e nel secondo caso un impuntamento cresta-cresta.
Agire con crono disinnestato e azzerato.

Camme 5:

Questa camme regola la profondità di ingranamento tra ruota di rinvio secondi crono e ruota secondi crono.
Agire quando innestando il crono il movimento si ferma ( ingranamento troppo profondo ) oppure quando i secondi crono vengono trascinati ad intermittenza ( ingranamento lasco ).
Agire a crono innestato.
NOTA: dopo aver regolato questa camme verificare nuovamente l'ingranamento relativo alla camme 4.

Spero di aver fatto cosa gradita!

NOTA: OGNI COPIA PER USO SU ALTRI FORUM E' ESPRESSAMENTE VIETATA
 

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Nice guide.
Some 3133 are badly adjusted and when you start chrono seconds hand tend to jump forward.
This happens because seconds sprocket is too far from chrono seconds wheel.
To make chrono start smooth you have to position sprocket as closely to seconds wheel as possible (while chronograph is reset) using 4 and 5 cams.
 

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Thanks for the informative guide. |>
 

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Nice guide.
Some 3133 are badly adjusted and when you start chrono seconds hand tend to jump forward.
This happens because seconds sprocket is too far from chrono seconds wheel.
To make chrono start smooth you have to position sprocket as closely to seconds wheel as possible (while chronograph is reset) using 4 and 5 cams.
My new Sturmanskie "TV" chrono has exactly this problem. It started out jumping ahead 1 minute, now jumps erratically, sometimes up to 7 minutes! I'm packing it up today and sending it back to Irina Maier, she said she'll take care of it. Good thing for Germany's 2 year warranty!

 

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I keep reading and re-reading this and still not sure if it addresses my problem with my 3133.

Minute chrono hand occasionally jumps forward several minutes on start. Resets just fine though.
Second chrono hand starts just fine, but resets to almost random points on the dial. The longer the chrono runs, the more variability there is on reset. If you only run the chrono a few seconds, it resets a few seconds (but often not the same number of seconds....if that makes sense).

Can anyone help? Thanks!
 

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I keep reading and re-reading this and still not sure if it addresses my problem with my 3133.

Minute chrono hand occasionally jumps forward several minutes on start. Resets just fine though.
Second chrono hand starts just fine, but resets to almost random points on the dial. The longer the chrono runs, the more variability there is on reset. If you only run the chrono a few seconds, it resets a few seconds (but often not the same number of seconds....if that makes sense).

Can anyone help? Thanks!
to fix minute hand jumps
you have to adjust cam #2 so minute sprocket would move alittle away from chrono wheel tooth.

to fix seconds hand issue you have to either reinstall hand to correct position and press it in or if the hand's bushing is not tight enough you'll have to replace it
 

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to fix minute hand jumps
you have to adjust cam #2 so minute sprocket would move alittle away from chrono wheel tooth.

to fix seconds hand issue you have to either reinstall hand to correct position and press it in or if the hand's bushing is not tight enough you'll have to replace it
Thanks YG1. If the second hand is resetting to random positions on the dial, would reinstalling the hand really fix the problem? It seems like this would only work if it reset to the same (wrong) place every time. Since it is resetting to random positions, it seems like the latter fix (replacing the bushing) would be the more likely fix, correct? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks YG1. If the second hand is resetting to random positions on the dial, would reinstalling the hand really fix the problem? It seems like this would only work if it reset to the same (wrong) place every time. Since it is resetting to random positions, it seems like the latter fix (replacing the bushing) would be the more likely fix, correct? Thanks!
Sometimes the second hand slips on the center axle. Try to put it in the correct position and to push it in firmly ( be really careful!!! ), the flyback to zero is really fast and strong and sometimes the hand after some use begins to do what she wants... ;)
If the hand is firmly inplace, put some watch oil on the "hearth" of the second wheel, this will make it slip softly when the brake hits it.
 

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Sometimes the second hand slips on the center axle. Try to put it in the correct position and to push it in firmly ( be really careful!!! ), the flyback to zero is really fast and strong and sometimes the hand after some use begins to do what she wants... ;)
If the hand is firmly inplace, put some watch oil on the "hearth" of the second wheel, this will make it slip softly when the brake hits it.
Thank you. I'm a bit scared to try this, but perhaps it's worth a shot. Already took it to one watch guy who wouldn't touch it.
 

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hello just wondering if you could help me with some information on 3133 movement i was given a poljot watch in bits in a box i have been looking for pdf files on where the watch parts fit also their is jewel needs to go some where watch skills nill i keep finding that the poljot is a remaking of valjoux 7734 also their is some cogs damaged if found theirs not many parts for these watches but i could be looking in the wrong places could you help thanks graham
 

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I got around to working on my 3133 today and was able to fix the jumping minutes hand using the #2 screw, so that is awesome.

Then I started on the randomly resettings seconds hand. I kept running and resetting the seconds hand trying to get it to zero exactly at zero so all I had to do was push the hand in, but now the seconds hand just sort of hangs whichever way gravity wants it to go. Does this sound like a bushing thing or could taking the movement out and pushing the seconds hand in potentially fix the problem?
 

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I got around to working on my 3133 today and was able to fix the jumping minutes hand using the #2 screw, so that is awesome.

Then I started on the randomly resettings seconds hand. I kept running and resetting the seconds hand trying to get it to zero exactly at zero so all I had to do was push the hand in, but now the seconds hand just sort of hangs whichever way gravity wants it to go. Does this sound like a bushing thing or could taking the movement out and pushing the seconds hand in potentially fix the problem?
Sounds like the hand is loose on the center bushing, does it hang there limp as the chronograph runs?

You might need to tighten the bushing on the hand or get a new second hand.....
 

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You'll need a staking set at the least....
 
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