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Not sure about that 'long' P at all - more ways than one!

The Exactus Squale has a different dial to the Blandford and the Oscar and a different caseback (I think I once saw a 'Hever' version somewhere as well which I would think was an attempt to play on the Heuer name!) - my two have a Squale branded case back different to the Exactus. Some of these unknown branded generic dials common in the cheaper skindivers were retailers, fashion companies, department stores etc or, like Blandford, with a connection to the dive industry and using their name to flog a few watches. I'd wonder how watertight most of the cheaper ones were, even new. All technically in the skindiver class but very different to the more usual Aquastar 63/ Seiko 62MAS case shape associated with skindivers.
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Discussion Starter #263
Fratello taking an OCD dive into vintage 62MAS minutia—about slight variability as to lume and how they age (indicative of one of two producing factories); crowns (small or big); and case backs (lightly etched dolphin, slightly different and deeper etched dolphin, and no-dolphin horseshoe)—and explaining about the reference numbers that 6217 refers to the movement and 8000 or 8001 the cases (or really the crown size).


They also link to coverage of additional hypotheses about potential variability in cases, lug holes, dial printing and other details, bezel coin edging, and bezel inserts, and with a useful timeline of the slight production variants.



And they link to coverage of the OEM tropic strap and its details.





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Floating this cool thread back up to the top with my newly acquired NTH Tikuna - at 40mm wide, 48mm lug-to-lug, and a mere 11.5 thick, I certainly think it qualifies! The Cherry On The Sundae is the 300m depth rating. I gotta say that I am nothing but impressed with this, my first NTH watch. The 7.45mm diameter "Big Crown" winds like buttah', the bezel moves smoothly but with authority and ZERO backlash, the C3 luminous is torch-like all night long, and the fully brushed case (with just a hint of polished surfaces via the chamfered case/lug edges) make it a LOVE-LOVE proposition for me! I was very surprised by the bracelet too; although it's a solid end link bracelet, the bracelet itself is quite thin & unobtrusive. All the individual links are ever-so-slightly "rounded"; as such, it's a joy to wear! It's truly "an homage to NOTHING" as well, while being a nod to many Skindiver watches from days past. I opened it up to bump the regulation this AM - the caseback/case threading is incredible! There is NO "slop" whatsoever - it feels like you're opening the hatch to a nuclear submarine! Chris Vail - you have MIGHTILY outdone yourself, my new friend!
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Floating this cool thread back up to the top with my newly acquired NTH Tikuna - at 40mm wide, 48mm lug-to-lug, and a mere 11.5 thick, I certainly think it qualifies! The Cherry On The Sundae is the 300m depth rating. I gotta say that I am nothing but impressed with this, my first NTH watch. The 7.45mm diameter "Big Crown" winds like buttah', the bezel moves smoothly but with authority and ZERO backlash, the C3 luminous is torch-like all night long, and the fully brushed case (with just a hint of polished surfaces via the chamfered case/lug edges) make it a LOVE-LOVE proposition for me! I was very surprised by the bracelet too; although it's a solid end link bracelet, the bracelet itself is quite thin & unobtrusive. All the individual links are ever-so-slightly "rounded"; as such, it's a joy to wear! It's truly "an homage to NOTHING" as well, while being a nod to many Skindiver watches from days past. I opened it up to bump the regulation this AM - the caseback/case threading is incredible! There is NO "slop" whatsoever - it feels like you're opening the hatch to a nuclear submarine! Chris Vail - you have MIGHTILY outdone yourself, my new friend!
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I'm happy if you're happy. Let us know if it gives you any trouble.
 

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Here is mine! Vance.
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More proof, Trip-loc crown. Vance.
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Floating this cool thread back up to the top with my newly acquired NTH Tikuna - at 40mm wide, 48mm lug-to-lug, and a mere 11.5 thick, I certainly think it qualifies! The Cherry On The Sundae is the 300m depth rating. I gotta say that I am nothing but impressed with this, my first NTH watch. The 7.45mm diameter "Big Crown" winds like buttah', the bezel moves smoothly but with authority and ZERO backlash, the C3 luminous is torch-like all night long, and the fully brushed case (with just a hint of polished surfaces via the chamfered case/lug edges) make it a LOVE-LOVE proposition for me! I was very surprised by the bracelet too; although it's a solid end link bracelet, the bracelet itself is quite thin & unobtrusive. All the individual links are ever-so-slightly "rounded"; as such, it's a joy to wear! It's truly "an homage to NOTHING" as well, while being a nod to many Skindiver watches from days past. I opened it up to bump the regulation this AM - the caseback/case threading is incredible! There is NO "slop" whatsoever - it feels like you're opening the hatch to a nuclear submarine! Chris Vail - you have MIGHTILY outdone yourself, my new friend!
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I'm liking the lettering (numbering?) of the 12,6,9 and especially the 3 - a touch of Yema Superman and a bit of one of the old Certina DSs and the ilk.
 

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I'm liking the lettering (numbering?) of the 12,6,9 and especially the 3 - a touch of Yema Superman and a bit of one of the old Certina DSs and the ilk.
Most people assume the numbering came from the Oris 65.

No one's ever guessed the true inspiration for the Tikuna's design, but it actually comes from three other watches - two vintage UG Polerouters, mostly, but also the LLD, from which we lifted the broken baton markers.

The numbers' font on the Tikuna is something our graphic designer whipped up for the v.1 Tropics, which we carried over, as it was similar, yet not identical to the UG's.

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Most people assume the numbering came from the Oris 65.

No one's ever guessed the true inspiration for the Tikuna's design, but it actually comes from three other watches - two vintage UG Polerouters, mostly, but also the LLD, from which we lifted the broken baton markers.

The numbers' font on the Tikuna is something our graphic designer whipped up for the v.1 Tropics, which we carried over, as it was similar, yet not identical to the UG's.

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Thanks for the History lesson, Chris - which prompts several comments and questions from me. How about the inspiration for the name - I'm coming up with a blank on that one. Also, I'm quite enamoured of the hands; unlike anything that I have seen before - care to open your kimono on what watch or watches they were inspired by?
Finally, an additional positive comment - although I was at first not so sure about the luminous area for the sweep second hand being on the backside, I've come to observe that I actually like it better, especially in low-light settings. Because of where it is, it has a fairly unobstructed "sweep of vision" most of the way around the dial due to its luminosity no "overlapping" the luminous of the hands or indices; well done, Sir!
And of course, drilled lugs are de rigueur on ANY proper dive watch; now pardon me while I consult my Tikuna to see if it's time for my second cuppa!
 

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Thanks for the History lesson, Chris - which prompts several comments and questions from me. How about the inspiration for the name - I'm coming up with a blank on that one. Also, I'm quite enamoured of the hands; unlike anything that I have seen before - care to open your kimono on what watch or watches they were inspired by?
Finally, an additional positive comment - although I was at first not so sure about the luminous area for the sweep second hand being on the backside, I've come to observe that I actually like it better, especially in low-light settings. Because of where it is, it has a fairly unobstructed "sweep of vision" most of the way around the dial due to its luminosity no "overlapping" the luminous of the hands or indices; well done, Sir!
And of course, drilled lugs are de rigueur on ANY proper dive watch; now pardon me while I consult my Tikuna to see if it's time for my second cuppa!
Names - as a general rule, all the NTH Subs and 2K1 models get their names from different classes of Submarines in use by various navies, at different times. I try to choose names that sound "right" for the design, and show love to the countries where my customers are, and the history of a design.

So, with the models based on old MOD-issued Rolexes, we used UK Subs' names - Amphion and Oberon. The Santa Cruz colors match the Argentinian flag, so we took the name of a Sub their navy uses. There are no real "rules" to it, I kind of just go with my gut. Sometimes there's more reasoning behind the name, often less, if any.

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The hands - The Tikuna and Vanguard were released at the same time. When we were developing them, I somewhat wanted to silence the critics who say everything we make is just a Rolex / Tudor knockoff by doing something more original.

My handset choices tend to be driven by the style of markers on the dial, in that I look for hand shapes that I think complement the rest of the design - straight hands with straight markers, pointed hands with pointed markers, tapered with tapered, etc. Since the rest of the Tikuna's design was pretty funky, we chose some funky hands. They don't exactly match the markers, but they don't exactly NOT match, either.

I can't take credit for NTH using them first, because we weren't the first. We didn't know it at the time, but since using them, I noticed that the same hands were used on the Crepas Loggerhead, albeit with a different seconds hand.

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Drilled lugs are something we try to do whenever we can. When we don't, it's because we can't, either because the lugs are too short, or the lug holes would be located in a place there the exterior surface of the lugs/case has a transition.

Drilled lugs are done with a single pass of a drill, from one side to the other. If the lugs are too short, the drill will hit the side of the case between the lugs. Think about the Hamilton Pan-Europ, with the curved springbars - those are some very short lugs. The springbar is curved so a strap can be fitted. Otherwise, the bar, or at least the drill, would hit the case.

If the exterior surface isn't flat enough, you can't drill a regular hole. So instead of the hole being round, it would end up tear-drop or egg-shaped. Besides how weird that would look, trying to place a drill on a rounded surface, or the edge dividing two flat surfaces would result in a lot of drill slippage, and ruin a lot of cases, driving our costs up a good bit.

We don't get a lot of say in WHERE the lugs holes are placed, so we can't just tell the factory to just put the holes somewhere else. They decide where the holes NEED to go, in order to get the clearances they need, often for fitting bracelet end-links.

Here's an example - I asked my vendor if they could locate the lug holes differently on the upcoming v.2 Tropics, compared to the v.1, so we could drill the lugs through. They said the placement we'd need - where the red circle is below (top image), wouldn't work with the end-links on the bracelet we're using. Where the holes are (bottom image) is too close to where the outer surface transitions away from where the drill bit would be placed. Even though that surface is flat, there's not enough room for the drill.

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Discussion Starter #274 (Edited)
Nice to see you in the thread, doc.

This historical dial and bezel needs a nod. (Edit: ya, I know, 499 friends.)




I also thought of you when this was resurrected and reissued, given your appreciation for folks who suggest that you make a GMT or chronograph ;)





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Do like a funky 70s style dial - talking of inspiration I'm suprised no one has issued watches inspired by the Baby Ploprof or the 166.091 (or maybe they have but I havent noticed!), great case shapes calling out for original dials... well, seems I'm also developing a liking for hidden lugs....now where did I put my old Zenith Defy tonneau...not strictly a diver but still 300m....
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Oh ... and its great to see the black day/date wheel on that Mido...
 
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