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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tiffany & Co.. Serpico y Laino. Cuervo y Sobrinos. Turler. Meister. Gubelin...

You can’t just print Tiffany’s name on a handbag and call it special. But guess what... write it on a watch dial and suddenly it’s a Tiffany-signed Patek, a level apart from all other Pateks. To me, this looks like an incredibly cost-efficient way to make a limited edition. Plus, it’ll bring back a beloved watch tradition where jewelers and even companies, armies, and royal families could request their logo on a prestigious watch. (There are Domino’s signed Rolex out there) Why has this practice all but stopped?

I did read that Patek brought back a few Tiffany signed dials in 2013 and you could request some models to be stamped. But Rolex and Omega no longer does this, to my knowledge.
 

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Vint. Forum Co-Moderator
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I believe it’s primarily not done any more because in the past, the jewellers name was more important to watch buyers than the watch makers. The trust and the cachet was in the jewellers name. Gradually over the last eighty odd years this eroded to the point where few are going to buy a Rolex because it has a jewellers name on it.

Of course there is always the point that it was Rolex who were one of the first Swiss matchmakers to successfully get their name on the dial, so maybe they don’t like the practice anyway.
 

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In this day and age, who benefits most from a co-signed dial? The seller or the buyer? Certainly not the manufacturer. You can buy a Rolex at Costco... would you pay more or less for a Costco dial?

Award and celebration watches are different and there are still ways to get these done aftermarket.


Sent from my cracked, broken hand wound phone. IG @morning_tundra
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In this day and age, who benefits most from a co-signed dial? The seller or the buyer? Certainly not the manufacturer. You can buy a Rolex at Costco... would you pay more or less for a Costco dial?

Award and celebration watches are different and there are still ways to get these done aftermarket.


Sent from my cracked, broken hand wound phone. IG @morning_tundra
Not every place that sells watches need to put their names on the dial. Just the historic and famous ones, like Wempe. And it’ll likely be limited printings. Who knows what vintage collecting will be like in 50 years, but I bet they’ll pay more for something special, even if Costco signed it.
 

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Personally I miss even more the times when there was nothing written on the dial ;)

When you think of it, most watches made before 1900, even high grade, had nothing but time on their enamel dials. This is so elegant and discrete IMHO. Nothing to show off, quality kept hidden like a secret for connoisseurs... I think people started to give importance to a "brand" rather than a particular watchmaker or retailer with the advent of the American industry, which produced everything inside the same building. With their agressive marketing, they succeeded making most people believe that in-house machine made products are more desirable. This is still very prevalent today, with a lot of companies boasting they are "manufactures" or that they use silicium or other crap.
 

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Personally I miss even more the times when there was nothing written on the dial ;)

When you think of it, most watches made before 1900, even high grade, had nothing but time on their enamel dials. This is so elegant and discrete IMHO. Nothing to show off, quality kept hidden like a secret for connoisseurs... I think people started to give importance to a "brand" rather than a particular watchmaker or retailer with the advent of the American industry, which produced everything inside the same building. With their agressive marketing, they succeeded making most people believe that in-house machine made products are more desirable. This is still very prevalent today, with a lot of companies boasting they are "manufactures" or that they use silicium or other crap.
Sterility on eBay

 

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Zenith Forum Co-moderator
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Of course there is always the point that it was Rolex who were one of the first Swiss matchmakers to successfully get their name on the dial, so maybe they don’t like the practice anyway.
Weeellllll, that's not really true. Yes, Rolex did fight a lot to get their name on the dial - but only because they were pretty ordinary and unknown at the time. There were actually loads of watches all the way back into the 19th century with the maker's name on the dial. Just think of all those George Favre-Jacots (and later on all those Zeniths), all those L. Brandt et Fils (and later all those Omegas) and those many other watches with names on the dial long before Hans Wilsdorf complained to jewellers that whoever did the dirty work should be allowed to advertise on the dial.....

Hartmut Richter
 
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