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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I saw all the posts about dyeing a watch and wanted to try it myself, so I took my watch apart, got some water to near boiling, poured some black liquid RIT dye into it, dropped the bits of the watch I removed into the mix and waited and stirred, and waited some more, and stirred some more, and waited some more. After about a half hour of absolutely no color change except for a slight tinge of purple on the white lettering (which I ended up just removing all-together), I gave up. The only particularly good thing that has come of this is that the buttons are easier to press. Was I doing something wrong? Or is it not possible to dye this specific resin? I can't throw money at the problem unfortunately so I'm gonna have to rely on the bit of dye I have left to finish the job if it's even possible.
It's currently an ashy, charcoal grey color I think.
 

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Welcome to Watchuseek!

Problems that immediately leap out at me:


  1. Isn't the resin on the DWD-5500-1 ALREADY black or a dark gray? You're not going to be able to do much besides turn it a darker shade of gray-black.
  2. In general, liquid Rit dye doesn't seem to work nearly as well as their powdered version. Some liquid colors DO work better than other liquid colors, but none seem to work as well as the powders.
  3. How much water (and how much dye) did you use? Rit's own website calls for as much as an entire package of dye to two cups of liquid, so it's fairly common here to see people making some really weak, diluted dye baths.

If you can't afford to buy more dye, the best advice I can offer is "use what's left mixed with the correct (and small) amount of water the directions call for, bring the water TO boiling (since hotter is better for this), remove the pot from the heat and drop in the resin as soon as possible, and leave the resin in the dye for 10-20 minutes, stirring occasionally."

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome to Watchuseek!

Problems that immediately leap out at me:


  1. Isn't the resin on the DWD-5500-1 ALREADY black or a dark gray? You're not going to be able to do much besides turn it a darker shade of gray-black.
  2. In general, liquid Rit dye doesn't seem to work nearly as well as their powdered version. Some liquid colors DO work better than other liquid colors, but none seem to work as well as the powders.
  3. How much water (and how much dye) did you use? Rit's own website calls for as much as an entire package of dye to two cups of liquid, so it's fairly common here to see people making some really weak, diluted dye baths.

If you can't afford to buy more dye, the best advice I can offer is "use what's left mixed with the correct (and small) amount of water the directions call for, bring the water TO boiling (since hotter is better for this), remove the pot from the heat and drop in the resin as soon as possible, and leave the resin in the dye for 10-20 minutes, stirring occasionally."


Thanks! I've been lurking for a while now and wanted in on the fun.
And about the problems you mentioned:
1. Yep, it's darker gray but I didn't realize there was a black version until afterwards and I already shortened the band so it's too late for me to return it to the seller unfortunately. (On top of that it had a negative display and I hear that those are a hassle sometimes and despite liking the black theme, I don't know exactly how to feel about negative displays yet.
2. I did read about that but I figured I'd try it anyways. The general stores around me only carry the liquid version, otherwise I'd try the powdered one. Amazon unfortunately won't ship any of the products I seek unless the order is over 25$ I believe, otherwise I'd have gotten powdered dye rather than liquid.
3. It was a pretty good amount of water now that I think about it. Maybe a little too much... I'll have to find a smaller container that can stand the heat of the stove.
After experiencing the hassle of putting the springbar back in without a springbar tool, I might end up waiting a little while for another attempt, at least until I have a tool and hopefully some more dye just in case.
Thanks for the suggestions!
 

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What exactly is the problem with the buttons on the dwd5500? On the Casio website it is said that the dwd5500 has a "fully covered button construction"... What does that mean, and is that the reason why the buttons are hard to press?

I like the look of this watch, but if the buttons cause a hassle I'm thinking of going for the dwd5600 instead.
 

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The Buttons are like the mudmans Buttons one Piece with the bezel.
So you have the pusher connected by a Membrane to the bezel.
That makes pushing a bit harder then with free-floating pushers.

What exactly is the problem with the buttons on the dwd5500? On the Casio website it is said that the dwd5500 has a "fully covered button construction"... What does that mean, and is that the reason why the buttons are hard to press?

I like the look of this watch, but if the buttons cause a hassle I'm thinking of going for the dwd5600 instead.
 

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I see, thanks for explaining. Does the button design offer much of an advantage in terms of durability, assuming that the watch is just going to be exposed to normal day-to-day wear and tear, and not be worn on off-road mountain-biking escapades?
 

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Since i didnt see any G that was broken because of dirt in the pushers, i dont expect that you will have an Advantage by this design.
My dad was using his 5600E in an oily and dusty Workshop Environment and several times the pushers where struck by dirt (discovered when DST was to be set) :)
Everytime a firm cleaning with a brush, Soap and hot water resolved the issue.

In the worst cases i had to disassemble the bezel to get better Access to the pusrods for cleaning.

Anyhow, this was not damaging the watch.

Saying that i still own several mudmen and 5500s just because i like the desing and the idea to have a better dirt protection.... :)

I see, thanks for explaining. Does the button design offer much of an advantage in terms of durability, assuming that the watch is just going to be exposed to normal day-to-day wear and tear, and not be worn on off-road mountain-biking escapades?
 

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Just a note on the dwd5500 all black, the negative display on this particular model is one of the best I've seen. It is soooooo crisp and clear. And this is coming from someone who doesn't like negative displays. I own it and love the display!
 

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What about the metal frame around the display? Is that supposed to make the watch case stronger, or is the metal purely cosmetic?
 

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Cosmetic. :)

Its material and look is just depending on the Color design of the watch.

What about the metal frame around the display? Is that supposed to make the watch case stronger, or is the metal purely cosmetic?
 
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