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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Recently picked up my first 3133 chronograph, and I'm very pleased!
I have observations and some beginner questions so I'm sorry if they have been answered before or are obvious.

1. Power reserve - this watch just ran for over 65.5 hours! That's quite amazing for something rated for 42h.

2. "Back-hacking". Is it safe to hold the second hand by putting backward pressure on the crown in order to set it more accurately, or will this damage the movemet?

3. Winding is smooth, but pulling out the crown is tough and setting the time is equally difficult. I need to turn the crown a lot harder compared to my other watches. It feels like resistance, but not that anything is catching/getting stuck if that makes sense.

4. Any issue with letting the chronograph run for a few hours per day other than decreased power reserve?

5. Any tips for removing a stubborn snap-on caseback? The watch is in extremely good condition for a 1992 model apart from the groove for the caseback. It looks like it was scratched up quite a bit and even damaged from being opened. I would really appreciate a walkthorugh or even info on the exact tool that is perfect for this job.

1.JPG

Thank you /f10 friends :-!
 

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Point 3 would seem to suggest the movement is in need of servicing. I had a similar issue with an old Swiss watch, and after a clean and lube at the watchmaker setting the time felt normal again.

I also had a 3133 that had this issue recently, but returned it for a refund rather than getting it serviced. I have other 3133s that don’t put up resistance to setting the time, so there’s definitely something wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Point 3 would seem to suggest the movement is in need of servicing. I had a similar issue with an old Swiss watch, and after a clean and lube at the watchmaker setting the time felt normal again.

I also had a 3133 that had this issue recently, but returned it for a refund rather than getting it serviced. I have other 3133s that don’t put up resistance to setting the time, so there’s definitely something wrong.
I expected that it would probably need a service, but I think I will hold off for a while.
For its age it seems to be running OK and I'm happy with it. Beat error is a little high but so far the accuracy seems consistent.

WatchOScope-2018-08-30-14-06-28.png
 

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Its a bit of a mess so I guess the snap-on back is very tight.

A screwdriver of exactly the right size, inserted and turned vertically should do it. If it lifts it you can then insert a case back remover to finish the job.

I don't like snap-on backs for this reason and avoid if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its a bit of a mess so I guess the snap-on back is very tight.

A screwdriver of exactly the right size, inserted and turned vertically should do it. If it lifts it you can then insert a case back remover to finish the job.

I don't like snap-on backs for this reason and avoid if I can.
I might be able to try with a screwdriver. If opened, I wonder if it's possible to SLIGHTLY sand down the caseback lip to make it easier to open up...

The 3133 that I really want has a standard screw on caseback.
My favorite design is the Russian 2-piece system, but the regular threaded ones are also nice because you can use a rubber ball to loosen them.
 

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Is there any particular reason wh you date this watch to 1992? The markings on the case back look more consistent with the late 1990s. Also, acording to my local watchmaker, there have been two lengths of mainspring used in the 3133; one of ~48 hours and another of ~65 hours. Perhaps other more knowledgeable members here will be able to tell when each was used.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is there any particular reason wh you date this watch to 1992? The markings on the case back look more consistent with the late 1990s. Also, acording to my local watchmaker, there have been two lengths of mainspring used in the 3133; one of ~48 hours and another of ~65 hours. Perhaps other more knowledgeable members here will be able to tell when each was used.
Oops, I was using 1992 because I saw the same configuration in an old catalog...I guess that year stuck in my head. :-d
Looking back in my PMs, the watch was actually originally purchased in 1993 or 1994! As for the year of production - I do not know.
 

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5. Any tips for removing a stubborn snap-on caseback? The watch is in extremely good condition for a 1992 model apart from the groove for the caseback. It looks like it was scratched up quite a bit and even damaged from being opened. I would really appreciate a walkthorugh or even info on the exact tool that is perfect for this job.
A watchmaker's knife could help, it has a special blade for opening snap backs. But those are especially nasty, and I've seen a few.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's case backs like this that has forced me to buy an array of different removal tools.

The silver/black tool pictured on the right hand side (not the butter knife) is what I use to remove my 3133 snap case back.

View attachment 13463443
Thanks for the reply! I actually have one of those tools and tried it on my caseback. It seems like there's not enough material for it to grab onto and kept slipping out.
I've also had some suggestions to use a "Citizen style" caseback opener. The tool on the bottom right with the brown handle looks similar to one of those but with a thinner tip; I think that might work.
 

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How do you avoid too many scratches, when working on a stubborn caseback?
I use a combination of a piece of chamois (on the watch) and rubber cement (on the tool), but both methods tends to add both thickness and an element of unpredictability.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
As a backing I prefer to use a cellophane type of plastic as it's thinner, firmer and less malleable than other plastics. Trying to avoid any lateral movement also minimizes scratches, but finding and using the right tool for the job goes a long way to avoiding scratches.
 

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As a backing I prefer to use a cellophane type of plastic as it's thinner, firmer and less malleable than other plastics. Trying to avoid any lateral movement also minimizes scratches, but finding and using the right tool for the job goes a long way to avoiding scratches.
Thank you, Comrade...it's always good to learn something new, but I still love my little pieces of chamois leather. Must be a hold-out from my old detailing days, both cars and bikes loves a bit of chamois
(it's also really good for polishing most external watch parts)

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Discussion Starter #19
Here's another observation about the 3133, this time with a video.
Is the issue seen on the video common with this movement, or is mine somewhat defective?

https://youtu.be/WfpV3T8BsvI

Here's my best explanation of each section of the video:
A) Functioning correctly. Minute recording wheel begins to move at the end of the minute and takes a few seconds to fully "snap" over.
B) Minute recorder begins moving but gets stuck for (1) minute. After (1) second, the minute recording wheel immedialely starts moving again and adds (1) minute.
C) Demonstrates a full "snap" taking (39) seconds.
D) Minute recorder stuck for (47) seconds and then proceeds to increment the next minute on time.
 

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DSC00497a.jpg

The Sliding gear arrowed above the centre of the watch with the three slotted left hand screw, requires very slight adjustment, this gear is driven by a finger on the seconds recording wheel (centre of the movement), if its to low or to high it will not transfer motion to the minute recording wheel correctly, hence to much movement or not quite enough, the jumper spring can also be very slightly adjusted to aid the snap over and hand alignment.

A common problem, takes a bit of adjustment to get it right but very possible.

Cheers...
 
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