If you're looking for a well made, clean, manual vintage watch, don't just limit yourself to Swiss brands - Hamilton, Elgin, Gruen (kind of Swiss!) are great vintage American brands. You can even get exciting and pick up an old vintage manual from somewhere less common: Japan, England (you can find a sweet, fairly priced Smiths on ebay if you're patient enough), or even Turkey - I love the Nacar I bought my father: it's both well made and unique (though apparently it uses a Swiss movement!).More like thin watches is what I like not day or chrono just clean analog. I want mechanical wind or self wind. I want to have a swiss made one.