Absolutely it can be regulated. I would seek out a competent watch maker who is familiar with the MM300/8L35. I know Frank at Time Zone could regulate it.

Good luck [emoji256]

 

That is so bad 😲

I thought people always get them back running well so what's going on here?

 

That sucks
I sent an Emperor Tuna in and they did a great job & came back +5 rock solid day in day out
It only needs a regulation and a half decent watchmaker should be able to get it accurate
where are you based?

 

You mean you had to pay to get it barely within spec? Sounds like they should have done that for free.

 

You mean you had to pay to get it barely within spec?

Oh, the second one was free and they didn't suggest I pay at all. I'm not annoyed about that, and the team at the GS boutique in London were awesome the whole way through.

I'm now on the hunt for someone outside Seiko to regulate it a bit more precisely than the extremely generous spec values, seems like that should be very doable.

Thanks for the replies everyone, this forum never lets me down.

 

Not good. For that amount to service the MM300, you would think a proper and decent regulation would be included. The stock Seiko "out of the box" accuracy is what it is, but should be improved when you send it in, no?

 

4 months ago my I regulated my SLA033, no special skill needed. The 8L35 just uses standard regulating levers which is common on majority of automatic watches.

In your case with the 019, I would be more concerned finding a watch maker who can access the movement from the front without scratching the watch up but once they have access to the movement regulation is pretty much standard affair.

One good thing about these 8L35's is it's ability to hold regulation consistently over a longer period than say my old smp300 which came out of the AD Metas certified but started deviating out of spec after only 5 months. As long as your 8L movement is healthy one good regulation adjustment should last a long time.

 

same levers as ,say the 6r35? I see a screw next to the +-, Iimagine it’s not that, and that it’s one of those 2 levers

 

There's only one guy I know in the UK who would do it (has the correct front opening tooling, and he's fully booked for months and months.

 

I think it’s time to kill this urban legend once and for all. I have responded to this many times for the last 15 years to set it straight, but for some reason guys keep repeating this falsehood over and over…

I regulated one myself maybe 15 years ago and didn’t need special tooling. I popped the bezel off with a butter knife just like any other Seiko diver, and then the ring securing the crystal is reverse threaded so the “tooling” I used was a normal cheapo 3 prong case opener. The special “mystery technique” which seems to stump everyone is just that you need to turn the ring backwards from what you are used to. I doubt Seiko has changed anything since then which requires special tooling.*

Yes it’s a simple process to regulate that is similar to the ETA movements with a screw, so it’s actually much easier to regulate than the other Seiko movements. The whole process was a simple DIY that I as a complete nincompoop was able to do with no instruction right in my kitchen and only with a $10 case tool and a butter knife, so any watchmaker should find it a cakewalk.

*Edit: for clarity here’s a few pics I stole from the Web. Just use a generic 3 prong case opener (can get on Amazon for like $10) and use it on the outermost ring, and make sure to turn it clockwise to remove the entire crystal assembly:

 

Such a shame. My watch, though not an mm300, came back from Seiko USA running +1.5 seconds per day.

 

OK, but still pleased I suggested a pro with the correct tooling. In the hands of someone not familiar with a Jaxa they can be lethal when opening cases backs and screwed rings. Also the cheap copies we see and most buy are very poorly manufactured.

 

Thanks. So you can use the screw…I’ve never tinkered with the screw only the levers.
If you play with the screw I assume it will also move the level ??? Seems safer to play with the screw no?

 

The screw provides the fine adjustment.

 

Ok thanks!

 

Question, how do you remove the crown to get to the back of the movement? That must be unique on MM300's? Right?

 

There will be a press down release lever under the dial.

 

is it under the dial? Does that require removing the dial to release the crown?…. Doesn’t seem right

 

Thanks. I’m always curious about the monobloc interior design. I think these watches can outlast traditional design given there is one less seal

 

Technically there isn’t one less seal. There are 2 seals on the Crystal side, one for the outer ring and one for the inner ring. So same number of seals really.

 

Apologies for the bump but I'm interested in learning how to do this. I'm due to send my SLA055 to my local Seiko service centre to regulate as it's currently running at a consistent +25spd.

In case it comes back in spec +15spd, then I'd be tempted to try it myself. Just to be clear there are two points which I could use to regulate, the screw and lever directly opposite? I've circled both. And to confirm the lever I've not circled should never be touched right?

And what tool would you use if wanting to try with the screw? Is there a specific tool or just any mini screwdriver will do?

Thanks in advance.

 

Do not touch position A, unless you want to adjust the beat error.
Fine-regulation at position B - in very small steps!!
I strongly recommend to use a "Timegrapher" to check the adjustment.

 

Thank you. I'm looking to pick up a weishi 1000. Just need to try find the lift value to set on the time grapher.

 

My 10p worth.

Rotate the oscillating weight and cover up as much of the balance as possible working through one of its lightening holes while screw drivering.

I doubt you'll find the official LA so use 52 or 53.

 

Not sure how accurate this is, but this says 53. https://calibercorner.com/seiko-caliber-8l35/

I regulated mine last night with a Weishi 1000, a cheap caseback removal tool from Amazon, and a 0.8mm screwdriver. It wasn't all that hard at all. Just tried to barely move the screw, the lightly put the caseback on enough that it didn't rattle or move easily but I could still get it off with my hands, check the accuracy with the Weishi then adjust again. In the end I BARELY moved the screw but I went from running a couple of seconds slow a day to a couple of seconds fast which I prefer. Then I put a tiny bit of silicone grease on the gasket and resealed it.