Here’s what I see:
The outside part of the clasp is definitely wrong and looks suspicious. It’s wrong because the crown shouldn’t extend past the end of clasp. There were some that did, but not on 6-digit. The model number of bracelet (at least in pic) has that wonky zero, although it could be the angle of pic.
What I don’t see:
The clasp code and embossed Rolex stamping. If that’s wonky, not crisp, or has numbers that don’t correspond to legit bracelets and dates, it’s tell-tale sign. End links, I didn’t research but don’t think they’re designed for Tudor anyway.
One thing I always do to authenticate a bracelet if I have it in hand is unscrew a couple screws. Why? Because Rolex bracelet screws are soooo precise, cut sooooo well, and fit soooo perfectly, makes them extremely difficult to counterfeit. Not to mention the cost would be excessive to duplicate given its not seen.
Just my .02
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Hi!The center links are solid— it’s a sure fire way of spotting a fake heavy oyster bracelet. Original center links for this model are hollow. To be honest, nothing looks correct about it. It’s not even close.
Out of curiosity, what makes you say the bracelet is correct? Is it anything specific or, is it just a general hunch you may have? I can’t see any single thing on the bracelet that would be correct on a genuine 78350 bracelet. What am I missing that you are seeing?
Hi! Sorry, looks like i didnt put my point across very well. To the contrary, i was just doing my best to explain that to the untrained eye (like myself) something that looks genuine can easily be a fake.Out of curiosity, what makes you say the bracelet is correct? Is it anything specific or, is it just a general hunch you may have? I can’t see any single thing on the bracelet that would be correct on a genuine 78350 bracelet. What am I missing that you are seeing?
Of course what Im saying is almost 100% not accurate