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San Martin Throws Down The Gauntlet With SN0144-GX

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san martin
21K views 209 replies 71 participants last post by  Xaltotun  
#1 ·
With San Martin's continued slow and steady push upmarket past the $300 mark, and their increasing output of original (more or less) designs, I've been curious when they would finally go after brands like Traska, Tuseno, or Dryden - the $500-700 class where the 9015 replaces the NH35, and you get a significant jump in quality over the likes of Phoibos or Spinnaker (or other Ali-X stuff).

Well, they've done that. They know they can make cases and dials as good as those $500-700 micros, they brought in the 9015 (with a color matched date wheel), they went beyond their usual Oyster clone bracelet into something that looks designed for the watch rather than an OTS part, they matched the clasp rather than using their standard OTS part, and they even went so far as to decorate the case back.

So, now you have a $330 San Martin that makes zero excuses vs. its 2X as expensive rivals, that is not a cut price Longines or Tudor imitator, it's theirs. 39 x 47 x 10mm, 100M WR spec monster that is also a genuinely good looking watch. Everybody is on notice now. As far as Ali-X brands are concerned, they're in a league of their own now.

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#8 ·
The texture is very cool. I'm not going to buy one of these because I hate visible crystal gaskets, but I get that's the current design du jour, so I understand why they did it. Noble, Sealander, Conquest, Aqua-Terra etc all have that, so if you're going after them, why wouldn't you?

If they do something similar with a dive bezel, without the hideous crystal gasket, that might be tempting.
 
#13 ·
The dial texture and the gradient application is superbly done. It has a clinical Citizen or Zelos look. I like the seconds hand and it’s only shortcoming is it’s length.

Is the motif on the caseback the new logo?
 
#14 ·
Impressive. Especially at that price point.
 
#15 ·
I’ve been one of the bunch waiting for “this” watch. Knew it was close. Pretty much totally dislike this version of “this” watch, but I’m sure they’ll get to something I like at this level soon. Will buy.
 
#22 ·
I'm in the hobby for a long time, but I did not own any Chinese or homage watches until yesterday, when my Rdnae R6 arrived in the mail. $179.90 for a sterile vintage Tornek-Rayville homage with saphire crystall seemed to good to pass for me.

What I'd argue is that the Miyota 9015 is a better movement than the Seiko NH35/38. I'd say they are equal to one another.

As far as I know, San Marin also owns the Tactical Frog brand name. Their Titanium FX diver for slightly less than $200 is extremely close to the Tudor FXD, which costs 20 times as much. It is on my shopping list now. As time moves on, the Chinese have perfected their manufacturing that it comes very close to that of the established Swiss makers. What does that tell us? Well, it tells us that a Tudor FXD should cost around $1K retail, which is still 5 times that of a Tactical Frog. It's justified due to the better movement, and due to the higher cost of production in Switzerland compared to China. But all the other stuff is marketing and gravy, and as the owner of a rather expensive vintage Panerai and a ROO I'm at a point in my life where spending thousands of dollars on a watch of which the majority goes to the brand name makes less and less sense to me.
 
#26 ·
I don't think this was anything other than expected considering their popularity surge over the past few years. Can't stay wannabe maker forever. This is a good try for something somewhat original and nicer. Still don't think it distances themselves from what they're ultimately known for, but we'll see what the future holds.
 
#30 ·
Honestly this level of finish isn’t even new for them circa the last year or two. Loading it with a 9 series miyota is the big change that brings the watches squarely into mid level micro contention. The nh35 was the only thing keeping them from stomping Baltic, traska, and now even Hamilton and Tissot.
 
#38 ·
Islander has their upper brookville with nice texture dial and miyota movements for 400.
I have the coral (pinkish) dial that I got on close out for 200.
good specs at 41mm 100 wr screw down crown and exhibition case back.
Pics later.
Not terrible, but it's a SARB clone with a pretty basic bracelet. Not terribly impressed, honestly.
 
#34 · (Edited)
I do not love the dial, but if this were in white or black or anything non-radiant I would set aside my preference for legacy brands and pick one up. I will say one thing though, which is that I had to return a San Martin watch and that is, shall we say, not an easy task. You pay to ship it back, it gets stuck in customs for two months, and then they charge you the original cost of shipping. So, if you order one, be prepared to keep it. In retrospect, I wish I would have held on to mine. It would have been easier to sell it myself.
 
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