I'm replacing the hands on my Seiko SKX007, and things went fairly smoothly until I got to the seconds hand. I am using a loupe to see so I'm not sure I can actually get pictures of my apparent situation, so I'll try my best to describe it. There appears to be a small rounded tab/pin that comes out of the middle hole that the seconds hand pin inserts into. It's just on one side so the majority of the hole is clearly open. I was afraid somehow the pin from the previous hand broke off as it's about the same length, but that seems to be intact. This tab/pin appears to be keeping me from getting the new seconds hand from seating properly. Did I break something? Am I doing something wrong? Thanks!
puckerth
This is a snip from an ETA 2824-2 movement (not your movement but proportions should be similar)
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I'd be surprised if something broke off and got stuck in the groove. Do you have better magnification?
I'd be surprised if something broke off and got stuck in the groove. Do you have better magnification?
It's better to do this with a bright light and a x5 loupe; otherwise it's difficult to place the second hand in the correct position. It's not a tab, but a thin round shaft; diameter of this tip on a Seiko is 0.20mm.
When fitting the second hand, I've always found the original Seiko hand would fit exactly with just enough friction to hold the hand in place. Some aftermarket hands are made slightly too small or the hole not perfectly round. In those cases, the hole on the new hand need to be broached slightly.
If you're having trouble with installing a new hand, see if the original hand would go back in.
Screen shot is from:
When fitting the second hand, I've always found the original Seiko hand would fit exactly with just enough friction to hold the hand in place. Some aftermarket hands are made slightly too small or the hole not perfectly round. In those cases, the hole on the new hand need to be broached slightly.
If you're having trouble with installing a new hand, see if the original hand would go back in.
Screen shot is from:
Attachments
puckerth...Hello!
I agree with JAA: Seiko hands fit REALLY WELL, and go on as nicely as you'd ever hope. Be careful here, and watch what you're doing...the hand post will last about forever, if it's not bent or pushed-on too hard!
And: I knew a fine, Waltham Factory trained watchmaker who worked for over a quarter-century up here in Maine, and he mentioned to me several times, 'Fitting hands is a thankless task'. I have worked on hundreds of old watches--ww's & pw's, American, Swiss, German, and Japanese--and, Andy Taber ( may he Rest in Peace ) was 100% on-the-money!
Michael.
I agree with JAA: Seiko hands fit REALLY WELL, and go on as nicely as you'd ever hope. Be careful here, and watch what you're doing...the hand post will last about forever, if it's not bent or pushed-on too hard!
And: I knew a fine, Waltham Factory trained watchmaker who worked for over a quarter-century up here in Maine, and he mentioned to me several times, 'Fitting hands is a thankless task'. I have worked on hundreds of old watches--ww's & pw's, American, Swiss, German, and Japanese--and, Andy Taber ( may he Rest in Peace ) was 100% on-the-money!
Michael.
OK, here are a couple shots...with hour and then hour and minutes hand. Maybe this will help show what I'm trying to describe. I thought the minutes should seat lower but I couldn't get it to sit any lower than this. The first picture clearly shows what I believe is keeping me from getting the seconds hand to sit flush.
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Looks like both hour and minute hands are in correctly. The sweep second hand fits on the protuding tip. There's nothing in the way.
Some aftermarket sweep second hands would not go completely in flush. It should still stay in with just a slight push with tip your tweezers. If you think you need to apply more force, something is wrong with it (see comments in previous posts).
Some aftermarket sweep second hands would not go completely in flush. It should still stay in with just a slight push with tip your tweezers. If you think you need to apply more force, something is wrong with it (see comments in previous posts).
Every second hand I've seen has a tube riveted to the sheet metal of the hand so it protrudes quite far from the hand, maybe 1.5 times the length of the pinion wheel protrusion above the hour wheel's end. Perhaps a picture of the hands in question would be a help. BTW, good job on the extension tube on the DLSR, every bit as good as a microscope (although a bit harder to hold, I'm sure).
Ok you guys are absolutely right. I couldn't quite make it out with the loupe but with my camera I could see it is just as you described.
Unfortunately at this point I think I had bent that tube, and when I tried to remove it from the shaft it broke off and is now still on the shaft. The second hand now has a hole where it was, so I'm sure. I tried grabbing it with tweezers but can't seem to get enough leverage on it to pull it off. I know lots of folks would take this as me being in over my head, and that's probably true, but I really want to see this project through. I put it back together without the seconds hand and all seems to function properly. I will gladly buy another set of hands to take another crack at it, but would like to ensure I can get that piece off first. Any thoughts?
BTW you guys have all been super helpful and I really appreciate your advice and patience with me.
Unfortunately at this point I think I had bent that tube, and when I tried to remove it from the shaft it broke off and is now still on the shaft. The second hand now has a hole where it was, so I'm sure. I tried grabbing it with tweezers but can't seem to get enough leverage on it to pull it off. I know lots of folks would take this as me being in over my head, and that's probably true, but I really want to see this project through. I put it back together without the seconds hand and all seems to function properly. I will gladly buy another set of hands to take another crack at it, but would like to ensure I can get that piece off first. Any thoughts?
BTW you guys have all been super helpful and I really appreciate your advice and patience with me.
Can you give us a picture of the broken off tube on the seconds hand post? It might help figure out how to remove it so you can properly fit a new one.
Mike
Mike
OK, so welcome to watchmaking, you ready for some disassembly? BTW, this is about the easiest part of the movement, but you'll need a good set of antimagnetic No. 2 pattern tweezers and a set of watchmakers screwdrivers. rubber gloves or cots are a must and you'll need something clean to put the parts on. A movement holder would be a plus but you can get by on a clean vinyl mat (think child's placemat).
Now download the Tech Sheet https://www.seikoserviceusa.com/uploads/datasheets/7S26C_36C.pdf. Page 3 has the date wheel and motion works, you need to disassemble in order from one to sixteen, the cannon pinion. Try to be careful to leave the original lubricants in place, i.e., grab parts by some place not lubricated, don't add any dirt from dirty tools and don't wipe anything unless you have to.
Once the cannon pinion is removed, you can get under the broken-off hand tube and pry it off. Use even force or risk breaking the seconds wheel staff. It's best to get something under each side and pry evenly.
Reassembly in reverse order.
Here's a pic of the page in question:
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Good luck and let us know how it goes. In the worst case, esslinger has replacement movements for $45.
Now download the Tech Sheet https://www.seikoserviceusa.com/uploads/datasheets/7S26C_36C.pdf. Page 3 has the date wheel and motion works, you need to disassemble in order from one to sixteen, the cannon pinion. Try to be careful to leave the original lubricants in place, i.e., grab parts by some place not lubricated, don't add any dirt from dirty tools and don't wipe anything unless you have to.
Once the cannon pinion is removed, you can get under the broken-off hand tube and pry it off. Use even force or risk breaking the seconds wheel staff. It's best to get something under each side and pry evenly.
Reassembly in reverse order.
Here's a pic of the page in question:
Good luck and let us know how it goes. In the worst case, esslinger has replacement movements for $45.
I'll offer the second welcome to watchmaking. In some other pursuits, it's perfectly ok to take shortcuts, hack, or otherwise improvise. But when doing something to a watch movement, you have to do it exactly right with the correct tool.
Don't use tweezers to remove watch hands. Use a pair of levers or the hand removal tool so they come off straight up.
To remove that piece still stuck to the watch: (Tweezers are too large for this job) Get something sticky (a watchmaker would use "Rodico") like gum you've just finished chewing or duct tape shaped into a point; use the stickiness to grab the small piece so you can pull it off. You may have to try several times.
Don't use tweezers to remove watch hands. Use a pair of levers or the hand removal tool so they come off straight up.
The suggestion to disassemble would definitely work; but you may not be comfortable with taking apart the movement yet. You can try this:
To remove that piece still stuck to the watch: (Tweezers are too large for this job) Get something sticky (a watchmaker would use "Rodico") like gum you've just finished chewing or duct tape shaped into a point; use the stickiness to grab the small piece so you can pull it off. You may have to try several times.
Oh boy...looks like I've got myself into something!
I had used a hand removal tool for every time prior. Not sure why I used the tweezers this time. But you called me out on it for sure! I've got rodico so will give that a shot too. But something tells me I'll have to dive deeper.
Will take a picture of things to show you what I'm dealing with.
I had used a hand removal tool for every time prior. Not sure why I used the tweezers this time. But you called me out on it for sure! I've got rodico so will give that a shot too. But something tells me I'll have to dive deeper.
Will take a picture of things to show you what I'm dealing with.
In my tool list, I left out the eyewear. I've put up a lengthy post on loupe recommendations, on this and the "Books, Tools, Winders..." forums. If you succeed in accomplishing my suggestion without a loupe, then I'll be impressed.
I did take apart and reassemble a railroad pocket watch several times in my teens with nothing more than a Mark I Eyeball (never even heard of a loupe) but that was several years (more like several decades) ago.
One thing you have going in your favor is that there is only one type of screw, so you can't get that wrong.
I did take apart and reassemble a railroad pocket watch several times in my teens with nothing more than a Mark I Eyeball (never even heard of a loupe) but that was several years (more like several decades) ago.
One thing you have going in your favor is that there is only one type of screw, so you can't get that wrong.
Finally got my replacement hands so am digging into this. Stuck on getting the c clip off the day wheel. Watched some videos and read some posts. I tried some small screwdrivers but am not making much progress. Read about hand levers but don't have them. Should I get a pair?Since you guys seemed so knowledgeable, any words of advice before I break something else? 😁
Levers probably won't help if you can't do it with a screwdriver. Are you using magnification?
Use a small screwdriver with the thinnest blade, like one with a 2mm blade. Slowly work it under the clip. Go slow and careful because the clip would fly out never to be found again. You can use a piece of Rodico to keep it from flying.
Be patient, go slow. Concentrate on applying less force than you think you need. |>
Like this, except go much slower and try just lift up the clip instead of letting fly.
(at 12:20 of the video)
Use a small screwdriver with the thinnest blade, like one with a 2mm blade. Slowly work it under the clip. Go slow and careful because the clip would fly out never to be found again. You can use a piece of Rodico to keep it from flying.
Be patient, go slow. Concentrate on applying less force than you think you need. |>
Like this, except go much slower and try just lift up the clip instead of letting fly.
Yes, I'm using a 10x loupe. Can see it pretty clearly. But one of the videos I watched, the clip popped off and landed right next to the movement. No way would that happen for me...it will land under my desk in the darkest corner never to be found again! Plus I felt with the loupe I lose peripheral vision in case it flew. I will use a small screwdriver, be patient, and go slow. Thanks!
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