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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,

I am keen to buy a GMT, and right now I am looking at the Grand Seiko SBGN009. I like it because I have wanted a Grand Seiko for a while, I think it is beautiful (in pictures... I haven't seen it in person), and I don't want a GMT that looks like a reworked diver. I also don't want to exceed the Grand Seiko SBGN009 price of approximately $3000 USD.

I'm seeking your help because I want to know if there are any other GMT watches in this price range that people in this forum would recommend to me. Bonus points if you save me money! :)

Anything else I should be looking at (automatic or quartz)? Anyone own the Grand Seiko SBGN009 and want to share their thoughts?


Many thanks,

J Daddy
 

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This is the Affordable watches theme forum, so I’m not sure you are asking in the right place if you want to stay in the same price range as the GS.

There are certainly a lot of GMT watches out there in all price ranges. If you’ve never owned a GMT watch before, it might be worth playing the field at the lower price range as there’s a number of different ways the GMT functionality can be implemented. Assuming the GMT feature is something you plan on using, you might want to see how the different methods suit you best before you dive into the 4 figure range.

At its simplest an analog GMT watch is nothing more than a watch with an hours bezel that matches the hours hand on a 3 hander. In other words a 12 hour watch with a 12 hour bezel or a 24 hour watch with a 24 hour bezel. Moving up a notch you have the 4 handers with a 12 and 24 hour synchronized hands with a 24 hour bezel (as the original Rolex GMT had). Moving up another notch and you have a 4 hander with either the 12 or 24 hand that can be independently adjusted without hacking the watch.
 

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Since you mentioned GS, I am assuming you are looking at more dressier options without a rotating bezel. I would recommend you check out the Citizen Attesa lineup. Most of the GMTs in the lineup seem to be discontinued. If you are into the used market, do keep an eye on Rakuten and the Japanese eBay sellers.
 
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I was going to purchase the Steinhart but I have seen the bezel's paint rub off. Good luck on your search.
 
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Iblvdont have any pics but Alpina has the Startimer GMT. Not diveresque, save you some money, admittedly not as nicely finished as a GS and also has a independent hour hand vs. GMT hand as most watches in its price range.

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I own and have been very happy with the Longines Conquest GMT. I use it when I travel. They also have GMT models with their VHP quartz movement.

At least for the automatic model, the first setting position operates the 24 hour hand (and the date). If I understand correctly, it is not what some would consider a “true” GMT. But, practically speaking, either way works. If you are truly concerned about the few seconds you may lose changing the time, then you probably should get a watch with something other than an automatic movement in it. Or, you know, use the world clock in your mobile phone.




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The one suggested is a ceramic bezel, so not painted.
I know both the 39mm and 42mm are ceramic; however, I have seen a WUS flip theirs with the paint / ceramic scraped / rubbed off at the 2 o'clock position. Not sure what happened; I guess I was hesitant. Nonetheless, I think it is on level with the Squale 1545 30 Atmos MkII GMT, although the Steinhart does have 500M resistance... Both are stunning.
 

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Hi folks,

I am keen to buy a GMT, and right now I am looking at the Grand Seiko SBGN009. I like it because I have wanted a Grand Seiko for a while, I think it is beautiful (in pictures... I haven't seen it in person), and I don't want a GMT that looks like a reworked diver. I also don't want to exceed the Grand Seiko SBGN009 price of approximately $3000 USD.

I'm seeking your help because I want to know if there are any other GMT watches in this price range that people in this forum would recommend to me. Bonus points if you save me money! :)

Anything else I should be looking at (automatic or quartz)? Anyone own the Grand Seiko SBGN009 and want to share their thoughts?


Many thanks,

J Daddy
Which type of GMT do you prefer?

Travelers GMT- Quickset hour hand (Seiko/Rolex/Omega/Alpina type)
Caller GMT - Quickset GMT hand. (ETA-2893/Orient type)

It makes a Big difference in how the watch is used.

ETA-2893 powered GMT are caller GMT, good for office workers tracking another timezone, not so good for travelers as the wearer has to stop the watch to change the local time and after spinning all the hands to the correct new time, then has to go to position 2 to quickset the original 24 hand back the zone it was originally set to, then find a time source (cell phone) to reset the second hand sweep correctly.

With a traveler GMT, all the wearer does is go to position 2 and set the hour hand to new local time. Done. Watch movement never stops, 24 hour hand and minute hand never change. Sweep hand keeps on ticking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you so much for this. I did not know about the Citizen Attesa lineup and now have a lot to look at!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This is beautiful and I am a fan of a lot of Longines watches (especially the Legend Diver). Will research prices! Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I know both the 39mm and 42mm are ceramic; however, I have seen a WUS flip theirs with the paint / ceramic scraped / rubbed off at the 2 o'clock position. Not sure what happened; I guess I was hesitant. Nonetheless, I think it is on level with the Squale 1545 30 Atmos MkII GMT, although the Steinhart does have 500M resistance... Both are stunning.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Which type of GMT do you prefer?

Travelers GMT- Quickset hour hand (Seiko/Rolex/Omega/Alpina type)
Caller GMT - Quickset GMT hand. (ETA-2893/Orient type)

It makes a Big difference in how the watch is used.

ETA-2893 powered GMT are caller GMT, good for office workers tracking another timezone, not so good for travelers as the wearer has to stop the watch to change the local time and after spinning all the hands to the correct new time, then has to go to position 2 to quickset the original 24 hand back the zone it was originally set to, then find a time source (cell phone) to reset the second hand sweep correctly.

With a traveler GMT, all the wearer does is go to position 2 and set the hour hand to new local time. Done. Watch movement never stops, 24 hour hand and minute hand never change. Sweep hand keeps on ticking.

Very helpful! Did not know this. Many thanks!!
 

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Which type of GMT do you prefer?

Travelers GMT- Quickset hour hand (Seiko/Rolex/Omega/Alpina type)
Caller GMT - Quickset GMT hand. (ETA-2893/Orient type)

It makes a Big difference in how the watch is used.

ETA-2893 powered GMT are caller GMT, good for office workers tracking another timezone, not so good for travelers as the wearer has to stop the watch to change the local time and after spinning all the hands to the correct new time, then has to go to position 2 to quickset the original 24 hand back the zone it was originally set to, then find a time source (cell phone) to reset the second hand sweep correctly.

With a traveler GMT, all the wearer does is go to position 2 and set the hour hand to new local time. Done. Watch movement never stops, 24 hour hand and minute hand never change. Sweep hand keeps on ticking.
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Very helpful! Did not know this. Many thanks!!

You didn't answer the question. Because if you really want a "traveller" GMT, that's going to really limit your options, especially in the sub-$3K sphere.
There are a ton of really nice affordable options for "caller" GMTs, because they use the ETA 2893 or the Sellita equivalent. (And, in my experience, "Caller" GMTs are just fine so long as you're not travelling to lots of different time zones in one trip. E.g., going to Hawaii for a week, but need to remember what time it is at work just in case they want you to check in. Yes, the setting procedure is a little arduous, but you only have to do it once, and you get all the info you need.)

"Caller" GMTs:
All of the Swatch Group lower brands have options. Mido Multifort GMT, Hamilton Jazzmaster GMT. (The Certina DS Action GMT looks more like a Black-Bay inspired dive watch, without the dive bezel, which might not be what you're looking for.) There are a good number of options to choose from, but they should all be available for less than $1500 at least on the grey market. I love Hamiltons and Midos, but just be aware that they're not going to hold a candle fit-and-finishing wise to the GS. But they are automatic GMTs.

Glycine has made its mark as a GMT producer. This may be too dive watch-y for you, with the rotating bezel, but they're very different from dive watches. All way less than $1k.
"The Chief" (I like its sunburst dial and slightly more formal appearance)
s-l640.jpg
DC-4 GMT (I like that it actually has the real 1-12 hours on it, which most Glycines don't)
DelrayWatchSupplyPreOwnedWatches2__33712.1534265142.jpg


Frederique Constant Runabout:
maxresdefault.jpg
Frederique Constant Classics Index GMT:
Frederique_Constant_Classics_Index_Automatic_GMT_FC-350B5B6BFC-350S5B64.jpg

For a bit of Aqua Terra (I'm pretty sure this is discontinued, but you can probably find them places)
Ball Engineer II Red Label (COSC GMT)
1028303967.jpg

Ball Roadmaster (I think these were limited release, but you might be able to track them down)
Ball-Roadmaster-GMT-3.jpg

Oh, and don't forget the Tag Caliber 7 twin-time. Sporty and dressy all in one. At or above your $3k price retail, but regularly available for less than $2k used, or probably right around $2k on the grey market
91OGYWJfD0L._AC_UL1500_.jpg

I owned the Farer GMT mentioned above. It was quite nice and well finished. It didn't get enough wrist time in my collection to justify its price for me (but almost all of my watches cost $600 or less...), and I really like bracelets for my versatile/travel watches so I flipped it.

You might want to look at Montblanc's offerings, too. They have a bunch of dual time watches. Some have the home time on a second subdial; others have a 12-hour hand that you can make "pop out" for the second time zone (I've wanted one of these for a while, but they were always out of my price range, and most were 42mm so pretty big). You can usually find them around $1500-$2500 in grey market or used, but of course a lot more if you're paying retail
61XIAMyZwzL._AC_UX522_.jpg
Montblanc-Heritage-Chronometrie-Dual-Time-Automatic-Watch-MB-29.19-41mm-112648-2_2000x.jpg

There are also world timers (where there's a subdial showing the times around the world which rotates -- Freddy C and Ball make some of those) and "dual timers" (where there's an entirely separate subdial showing a second time usually slaved to the main time-- Ball makes one of those).
 
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