Re: Seiko Diver's 1965 Modern Re-Interpretation SPB143J1 / SPB147J1 / SPB149J1
Thread title renamed to include the 143 and 147
Thread title renamed to include the 143 and 147
The SPB145 exists as well! That looks very similar to the 143, because the 143 is a charcoal grey which has a hint of brown in it as well, but has a brown dial and "vintage-look" faux-patinated lume instead of green lume. It's hard to tell he difference from the dial colour, it's easy to get them mixed up, so it's easier to tell from the lume colour difference. It's different to the golden-brown dial of the 147, it's closer to the 143's dial in shade.Thread title renamed to include the 143 and 147
I'm not Polish, I don't have that many jczwcjyz's in my name!huangjczwcjyz
I'm kinda with ya on this. I've owned many 4Rs and 6Rs and they're all the same...really REALLY inconsistent positional variances. There's no point getting excited when it's reading within COSC specs while dial up on the timegrapher. Flip it dial down and you'll end up losing over 50 degrees amplitude and it'll be running at like -20 or +20 sec. The only Seiko I've ever had that has exceptional positional variance is my MM300, but that has the 8L35 movement.There will have to be proof the 6r35 is MUCH improved over the 6r15, and I'm not talking about 20 more hours of PR, which is worthless to me. If it's not more consistent I'm not wasting a penny on anymore watches with a 6r movement.
After owning/having 7 of those irratic bastards I'm done, and no way I'd spend over $700 for one.
You're lucky. Mine was running nowhere close to that, and barely within Seiko's specs.My new black alpinist with 6r35 is +3\24h ;but I think it will get better cos I just got the watch.
I thought that there was a missing number thereThe SPB145 exists as well! That looks very similar to the 143, because the 143 is a charcoal grey which has a hint of brown in it as well, but has a brown dial and "vintage-look" faux-patinated lume instead of green lume. It's hard to tell he difference from the dial colour, it's easy to get them mixed up, so it's easier to tell from the lume colour difference. It's different to the golden-brown dial of the 147, it's closer to the 143's dial in shade.
I'm not Polish, I don't have that many jczwcjyz's in my name!
You need to wait a week or two to settle,to spread the oils inside the movement.You're lucky. Mine was running nowhere close to that, and barely within Seiko's specs.
Almost a month after receiving it was still running the same.You need to wait a week or two to settle,to spread the oils inside the movement.
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How do you check your watch accuracy?Almost a month after receiving it was still running the same.
I take the mean average of six positions (on the time grapher), but then I bounce that off of the daily average while on wrist. It's usually pretty close...within a couple seconds at most.How do you check your watch accuracy?
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Most of the time I keep my watch on the wrist and I check the accuracy after a quartz watch or an atomic clock. I also wind up my watch 30-40 times before I put it on the wrist.I take the mean average of six positions (on the time grapher), but then I bounce that off of the daily average while on wrist. It's usually pretty close...within a couple seconds at most.
My whole point is on most Swiss, ETA, Sellita movements I've owned, the positional variance has been fairly good...I'd say within 10 seconds of each other, tops. On the other hand, I've had many Seikos that ran 0-5 sec/day dial up, but then ran + or - 20 sec/day or more in another position. That positional variance just goes to show how unregulated and unreliable a lot of Seiko movements are.I keep my watch always on the wrist and I check his accuracy after a quartz watch or an atomic clock. I also wind up my watch 30-40 times before I put it on the wrist.
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My experience with Seiko movements is very good, as good as my Rolex watches. Al my Seiko's have COSC accuracy.My whole point is on most Swiss, ETA, Sellita movements I've owned, the positional variance has been fairly good...I'd say within 10 seconds of each other, tops. On the other hand, I've had many Seikos that ran 0-5 sec/day dial up, but then ran + or - 20 sec/day or more in another position. That positional variance just goes to show how unregulated and unreliable a lot of Seiko movements are.
Agree with you on ETA movements, as for Seikos, my experience is the 7S/4R/6R movements have quite a bit of variance, but the 8L and GS movements I've had have been very consistent. In my experience, the 8L movements have better positional variance than ETA movements.My whole point is on most Swiss, ETA, Sellita movements I've owned, the positional variance has been fairly good...I'd say within 10 seconds of each other, tops. On the other hand, I've had many Seikos that ran 0-5 sec/day dial up, but then ran + or - 20 sec/day or more in another position. That positional variance just goes to show how unregulated and unreliable a lot of Seiko movements are.
Absolutely agree. GS movements are outstanding, and my 8L is +8 sec/day regardless of what position it's in.Agree with you on ETA movements, as for Seikos, my experience is the 7S/4R/6R movements have quite a bit of variance, but the 8L and GS movements I've had have been very consistent. In my experience, the 8L movements have better positional variance than ETA movements.
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GS movements are adjusted in 6 positions to a static accuracy that is comparable to COSC. Of course they are excellent.Absolutely agree. GS movements are outstanding, and my 8L is +8 sec/day regardless of what position it's in.
Yeah, Seiko needs to step up their game with regards to their movement accuracy.GS movements are adjusted in 6 positions to a static accuracy that is comparable to COSC. Of course they are excellent.
The 8L movements are unadjusted. Anecdotally they are better than the 7S family, but I would say they aren't really any better than mid-grade (elabore) ETA in terms of overall performance. Considering the prices Seiko sells watches using the 8Ls for these days, they underperform the competition. The cheapest 8L you can get is the SBDX023 MM300 that goes for $2800-$3000. The various LEs that use it are $4000+. For that kind of money, you can easily find a chronometer grade Swiss watch, or at least a top grade.
It's a valid concern but, looking at them side by side, I actually like the thicker bezel vs. the SLA017. I am hoping it will make the watch look a bit smaller when on wrist.I was just wondering about the case shape and dimensions of these versus the SLA017, the diameter is slightly bigger (40.5mm vs 39.9mm for the SLA017), but not to be noticeable...
What concerns me, now the initial child-like excitement has passed, is that the bezel looks quite thick (I think someone already said this.....) and I'm wondering if this will unbalance the look......