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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
20160319_190208crs.jpg

:) Here's how I did it.

:think: Before I go any further, I feel it is appropriate to provide some caveats and 'warnings'- If You Proceed, You do so at Your Own Risk. If you decide to undertake any modifications or do any work on your own watch, You Are Responsible - Not Me. If you poke holes in yourself, or pinch your fingers, or a spring-bar gets loose and shoots across the room, and pokes someone's eye, or ricochets and hits you, I cannot be responsible. If you drop, damage, scratch, or break your watch or any parts or tools, that is on You. Be advised that, depending on what you may choose to do or how far you choose to go, this is probably not a simple bolt-on or drop-in.

You should be aware of your own skill levels, capabilities, and take steps to insure your own protection and safety. Eyes are very easily damaged. You need them.

Wear eye protection.


Spring bars can launch with a fair amount of force and power if the spring is compressed and they get loose. If you choose to undertake this project, a good work space or work area, with good lighting and proper tools are essentials. I have found that I do best when there are be no external distractions.

:think:

Now, being only human, I probably overlooked something, or left something out, and you should proceed slowly and carefully and follow through with your own thinking and research. There may be other products or methods available that are better than the ones I will mention. If you find any good alternatives, feel free to mention them for the benefit of all. :-!

This Project started out as an attempt to find a generic Jubilee-type bracelet for my early 1970's vintage, 36mm Datejust. After I had started that, the question came up on the forum about how the forthcoming 'Project GMT' or Key West, would wear with a Jubilee.

I had just recently received a vintage-style Hadley-Roma Jubilee replacement with the 'D'-shaped hollow center links, similar to the Rolex original, I'd guess. So 'what the hay'- I had the bracelet, and the similar and appropriate MKII watch case; How would the two go together?

So I posted up some pictures of that bracelet on the 3-6-9 Nassau (What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 358) In this particular bracelet, the removable or adjustable links are retained with threaded screw pins. It has a plain sheet-metal fold-over clasp. The sheet metal end links supplied with that bracelet were stamped with the number '455B', and didn't really fit the curve against the watch case in the lug recess of the Nassau. And they didn't really seem to fit my old Datejust either, actually. So...I was on the hunt.

(Note: This particular bracelet does not appear in Hadley-Roma's current line-up. It may be out of production now. There do seem to be some available from sellers on Amazon, prices vary from $17.95 to $24.95. This is the most current PN I can find: MB5696W SE/CE20).

I also looked around on eBay and found other bracelets. One of similar quality to the Hadley-Roma came from eBay seller twente(o) in Australia. It was of acceptable quality for the price and it all seemed to work - the screws all turned out and back in and there were no apparent major issues, and he had additional links that fit it, and all at a very decent price. I bought that and for all practical purposes it seems almost identical to the Hadley-Roma - the finishing on it might just a couple of notches lower in uniformity and quality. There was some variance in the shape at the ends of each link, and the polishing on the hollow center links doesn't seem to have the uniformity of the H-R. It too came with folded stainless sheet metal end-links labeled '455B' - they were different in shape than the H-R's, but still didn't seem to fit my Datejust properly, but they were better in the Nassau case, but the curvature against the watch case was still wrong and with a fair amount of 'gap'- it is pretty darn difficult to add metal when it has already been removed. So....

At this point you should probably decide how far you want to get into this. Take another look at that first set of photos. It may be that the vintage style-Jubilee with the hollow center links is what you are looking for, and you don't mind the rattly end-link or the gap because the radius' don't match well. If that's the case, fine, it has been a 'drop-in' or 'remove-and-replace' to this point. It will take some more of your skills and become a test of patience, not to mention lightening your wallet, if you decide to go further.

I found eBay seller 'wholesaleoutlet990' who lists all kinds and types of generic replacements for submariners, Datejusts and the like. He was showing about four or five different types of end-links for the Datejust and submariner cases, so I picked through those and ordered a selection of different types to try. What I found, eventually, is the ones numbered '555' and listed as "555 end piece for 65210H Jubilee Watch Band Rolex 20mm #8" seem to be the best ones that I have come across.

:rodekaart (Note credit for the first photo following is to 'wholesaleoutlet990' from the auction listing on eBay)
555 #20-s-l1600_rs.jpg

;-) (the remainder are my own....) ;-)

20160321_134741rsr.jpg


20160321_134747crs.jpg


20160321_134904crs.jpg


If you install the '555' end links without doing any modifications, this is what you will likely see:

20160309_141109rs.jpg

20160309_141122rs.jpg

20160309_141157crs.jpg

20160309_141137rs.jpg

It is possible to get to a place where the gap is closed up. It takes some time and some careful adjusting and fitting to close up the gap. Details to follow....

the eBay store, 'wholesaleoutlet990' has them in a three-pack for a substantial reduction in price - I would suggest purchasing the three-pack, because if you are not careful and slow and patient in bending and fitting and trying again and again, you'll probably find that the first two or three attempts will leave you with one (or more) that has just been bent one-too-many times and it will take a set with the wrong curve or a flat spot that just won't work out - Stainless steel tends to work-harden and stiffen up as you bend and work it, so at some point, it will just not cooperate with you. If you have the three-pair pack and if you ruin a couple in 'practice', you'll have some spares to fall back on. I think it was around $45 US for a three-pair pack vs $29 US for one pair.

See this post (What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 432)

As posted.....

20160228_N#035-236&jubilee.jpg

Now, see this...

DF0_5690rscec.JPG

See how nice the curve appears on this; the 'Gap' is tight, and edge of the upper surface of the end-link is paralleling the line of the watch case beneath the bezel. This almost as good as you can get this.....

DF0_5682rscec.JPG

Another view - but a critical eye here - the edge of the end link does not conform or agree with the curvature of the upper surface of the case lug. It appears slightly 'flattened' midway, and if you rotated it and saw the way the light reflects off of this surface, you would agree that it is. This is the result of trying to get 'too much' out of rolling and stretching the metal in the upper surface the end link, to get it to flow up toward the radius next to the case to close up the 'gap' against the case. After doing this, the edges on the ends need to filed or stoned back because the metal has flowed out to towards the ends as well. As far as bending, rolling, and stretching, you can only work the metal so much, and then it work-hardens and won't give anymore. Now, it can be annealed to remove the hardening, but it would then need to be refinished, that is; re-polished and re-brushed. I didn't want to get into that. The tubes on the inside of the link that locate the springbar are probably attached by soldering or brazing. Heating the metal to anneal it runs the risk of those shifting or maybe even coming off. I just didn't want to get that far into it.

While bending, rolling, stretching, and shaping, it is easy to protect the surface finish of the end link. I just apply two or three layers (depending on how aggressive I'm going to get) of adhesive cellophane tape (Scotch Tape). It acts to provide some protection against surface-marring and can be easily removed after.

Here is what resulted when I went too far with trying to stretch and shape the end link metal to close the gap. This is the end link on the twelve o'clock side...

20160228_135849_Crop1.jpg


20160228_135853_Crop 2.jpg


:-( At this point I just couldn't do anything more with it. The more I tried to do anything, it either 'stayed the same' or (mostly) got worse. The stainless had work-hardened enough that it did not want to flow or bend. :-x

:) Time to order that three-pack of '555' end-links...

More to follow....

|>|>
 

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Have you tried the "550's" by any chance?
The 555's are originally for the older 36mm DJs (with lug holes) that use narrower spring bars and slightly smaller case. The 550's are for the larger 40mm cases like the older 1675/16750 GMTs. They have a larger opening and can take 2mm spring bars that will give a tighter fit at the lugs. Not sure if the MKIIs will take a 2mm bar thru the lug holes, but if not, then the 1.8mm bars will fit the 550's as well.
With the MKII cases being closer to 40mm than 36mm the 550's may provide an overall better fit.
Here is a link to WSOs listing for the 550's (even though the pics show the 555's).
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=160999096938&globalID=EBAY-US



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Discussion Starter #3
Have you tried the "550's" by any chance?
The 555's are originally for the older 36mm DJs (with lug holes) that use narrower spring bars and slightly smaller case. The 550's are for the larger 40mm cases like the older 1675/16750 GMTs. They have a larger opening and can take 2mm spring bars that will give a tighter fit at the lugs. Not sure if the MKIIs will take a 2mm bar thru the lug holes, but if not, then the 1.8mm bars will fit the 550's as well.
With the MKII cases being closer to 40mm than 36mm the 550's may provide an overall better fit.
Here is a link to WSOs listing for the 550's (even though the pics show the 555's).
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=160999096938&globalID=EBAY-US



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Thanks for the information - I didn't know that. But.

Yes, I did try some 550's from wso990. For a couple of reasons I found the 555's to work better.

First, the 555's I used, have a notch on each end to allow access to the shoulders on the springbars. Later on I'll mention why I think this is critical. The 550's i tried didn't have the notch, and it was quite a struggle to fit them and then remove them - Very frustrating, and if the tools slipped, could cause some damage to the case. Those notches are almost a necessity when it comes time to fit (or remove) the end-link to (from) the watch. The tighter you get the end link to fit, then the harder it is to install them and remove them. Good News / Bad News sort of thing.

The other thing is the 550's I tried didn't have the small tubes inside, so they did not do as good a job of locating and securing the end-link relative to the lug recess in the case. I was able to get the 555's to fit tighter and remain quieter without so much slopping around.

Good Info though. Are there are different versions of the 550's?

I know there are many different versions of the 455B's....and each vendor's piece seems to be a bit different, have somewhat different radius' and fit differently too.

Lots of things to try, probably, that I didn't do.

Thanks for the suggestion - perhaps someone else could take a shot at that.

--- Cheers ---
 

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Thanks for the information - I didn't know that. But.

Yes, I did try some 550's from wso990. For a couple of reasons I found the 555's to work better.

First, the 555's I used, have a notch on each end to allow access to the shoulders on the springbars. Later on I'll mention why I think this is critical. The 550's i tried didn't have the notch, and it was quite a struggle to fit them and then remove them - Very frustrating, and if the tools slipped, could cause some damage to the case. Those notches are almost a necessity when it comes time to fit (or remove) the end-link to (from) the watch. The tighter you get the end link to fit, then the harder it is to install them and remove them. Good News / Bad News sort of thing.

The other thing is the 550's I tried didn't have the small tubes inside, so they did not do as good a job of locating and securing the end-link relative to the lug recess in the case. I was able to get the 555's to fit tighter and remain quieter without so much slopping around.

Good Info though. Are there are different versions of the 550's?

I know there are many different versions of the 455B's....and each vendor's piece seems to be a bit different, have somewhat different radius' and fit differently too.

Lots of things to try, probably, that I didn't do.

Thanks for the suggestion - perhaps someone else could take a shot at that.

--- Cheers ---
Thank you for your kind reply to my suggestion.

Aahh! I see your point!

I was under the impression you could remove the spring bars by pushing a pin in through the outer lug holes, so you would not need the notch on the inner part of the end link. That notch is only needed if you have lugs without holes.

With genuine Rolex end links, the 555's come without the spring bar notch, like on this bracelet.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=191814673910&globalID=EBAY-US

The 555's with notches are almost always from aftermarket manufacturers. Maybe WSO carries the 550's with the notch.

Another seller that may be helpful on eBay is "riyi002" He sells good quality replacement bracelets and links. He has some 455's in his store, but may well be able to source some 555's or 550's. He's based in China but communicates well.

Regarding the small tubes inside the 550's, you may not need them if your spring bars are thicker (2mm vs 1.6 or 1.8mm).

Just some thoughts...


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Discussion Starter #5
Good info - Thanks.

Ironically enough, the solid end-link, solid-link Jubilee bracelet now on my Datejust came from riyi002. It didn't fit the MKII case well, but it slid right on the Datejust like it was made for it. Out of the dozen or so different options I tried, that's the one that worked the best on the Datejust 36mm case. And it looks good too....

I bought a generic 'President' solid-link bracelet from riyi002 and that is pictured on a MKII somewhere around here. It actually fit the MKII case the best of any that I tried without modifcation. It has a semi-solid built up end link made out of three pieces stuck together. Quality parts to be sure.....

I also tried some '455B' Jubilee end links he sells. They don't fit the MKII case very well, but they are different than all the others. I never tried them on the Datejust, because since the 'Solid' landed there, it's probably going to stay unless I want to wear leather.

I'll have to double check the springbars I'm using with MKII. I selected the largest ones I could fit through the links and tubes, and that helps stabilize everything to remove the excess play, but it also makes it harder to attach and remove. Now I see why Rolex sells that high-dollar, high-falutin' tool that compresses both ends of the spring bar at once - a sort of vise or fixed caliper I suppose....

Thanks for the thoughts.
 

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I wish you the very best, @OmegaCosmicMan, as you pursue the perfect combination of end link, spring bar, and Jubilee bracelet.

(I should have prefaced my first post with the following comment; please excuse my rudeness for not doing so until now.)
Thank you for a very thorough analysis and breakdown of how you went about selecting the optimal end links that best fit a jubilee bracelet to a MKII watch. I had not read anything like this previously, so your advice and recommendations are very much appreciated.

I am a big fan of putting jubilee bracelets on tool watches to give them a more dressy look. Some people like this, while others don't care for it. So I read your posting with eagerness, and enjoyed your pictures immensely. I really like the way the Nassau you have pictured above really brightens up with the jubilee attached. Not for everyone, I understand, but I'm a fan.

Thank you again for an informative post, and I look forward to future updates.


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Good info - Thanks.

Ironically enough, the solid end-link, solid-link Jubilee bracelet now on my Datejust came from riyi002. It didn't fit the MKII case well, but it slid right on the Datejust like it was made for it. Out of the dozen or so different options I tried, that's the one that worked the best on the Datejust 36mm case. And it looks good too....

I bought a generic 'President' solid-link bracelet from riyi002 and that is pictured on a MKII somewhere around here. It actually fit the MKII case the best of any that I tried without modifcation. It has a semi-solid built up end link made out of three pieces stuck together. Quality parts to be sure.....

I also tried some '455B' Jubilee end links he sells. They don't fit the MKII case very well, but they are different than all the others. I never tried them on the Datejust, because since the 'Solid' landed there, it's probably going to stay unless I want to wear leather.

I'll have to double check the springbars I'm using with MKII. I selected the largest ones I could fit through the links and tubes, and that helps stabilize everything to remove the excess play, but it also makes it harder to attach and remove. Now I see why Rolex sells that high-dollar, high-falutin' tool that compresses both ends of the spring bar at once - a sort of vise or fixed caliper I suppose....

Thanks for the thoughts.
What about a Super Jubilee, did you try one yet?
Thanks, Randy

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Discussion Starter #9
What about a Super Jubilee, did you try one yet?
Thanks, Randy

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:) Hi there, I don't want to seem 'thick-headed' but... :-s

What is a Super Jubilee? How is it different? I just don't understand what you mean....

I ended up with a solid-link bracelet from Hadley-Roma fitted with sheet metal, folded end links. (Hadley-Roma MB4216W)

I was going to go into the differences between what I call the 'vintage' Jubilee, with the hollow D-shaped tube middle links, and and the more modern 'solid-linked' one with all solid pieces comprising all of the links...

--- Best ---
 

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So - You want to use a 'Jubilee-style' bracelet with your Key West / Nassau /...

:) Hi there, I don't want to seem 'thick-headed' but... :-s

What is a Super Jubilee? How is it different? I just don't understand what you mean....

I ended up with a solid-link bracelet from Hadley-Roma fitted with sheet metal, folded end links. (Hadley-Roma MB4216W)

I was going to go into the differences between what I call the 'vintage' Jubilee, with the hollow D-shaped tube middle links, and and the more modern 'solid-linked' one with all solid pieces comprising all of the links...

--- Best ---
Here is one, I have to look up the part number...

http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=141043

SEL with Hidden clasp...

Thanks,
Randy ImageUploadedByTapatalk1458755213.709652.jpg


Electronic post generated by human via apple interface...
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Re: So - You want to use a 'Jubilee-style' bracelet with your Key West / Nassau /...

Here is one, I have to look up the part number...

Super Jubilee vs. regular Jubilee Bracelet - Rolex Forums - Rolex Watch Forum

SEL with Hidden clasp...

Thanks,
Randy View attachment 7540602


Electronic post generated by human via apple interface...
:) Okay, Randy, Thanks. Now I understand what you mean. I did get a generic copy similar to that, from a mainland China seller on eBay. It has solid end-links, solid, heavy links throughout, and a hidden clasp.

:think: The solid end-links attached to that particular bracelet were not designed to be removed, and they didn't fit the MKII case lugs well at all. :-(

I was actually very surprised that they fit my old Datejust really well, so that is the bracelet that ended up on the Datejust - So I guess I found the solution to my original quest - Which was to get a nice bracelet to fit the old Rolex.... :-d

And the Hadley-Roma bracelet (MB4216W) now fitted to the Nassau (with the generic 'glide-lock')....

(see this post ---> What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 442)

That bracelet has solid, heavy links also, but I had to use the '555' folded stainless sheet end-links to get it to fit on the MKII case. As supplied from HR, it had the old style single action (no locking mechanism) stainless sheet vintage-style clasp. So I removed that and adapted the heavy 'glide-lock-type' clasp to work. It is very nice.

--- Best ---

:think: -And- :)

After my morning shot of wake-up juice, it occurred to me that it would be possible to remove the 'hidden clasp' portion of that other bracelet along with the sections of removeable or adjustable links, and fit them to the Hadley-Roma, if one wanted to. I just don't want to do that.

:think: One of the drawbacks that I see with the hidden clasp, is that it is not super-easy to adjust the length. You would either have to add or remove links.

I am one of those people whose wrist seems to swell or shrink during the day, depending on what I am up to. So, for me, that 'glide-lock-type' is pretty comfortable and comvenient. Need more length? Open the clasp, lift the link and slide it out a notch or two. Back on the wrist and Done. Excellent.

Have a Great Day.....
 

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So - You want to use a 'Jubilee-style' bracelet with your Key West / Nassau /...

:) Okay, Randy, Thanks. Now I understand what you mean. I did get a generic copy similar to that, from a mainland China seller on eBay. It has solid end-links, solid, heavy links throughout, and a hidden clasp.

:think: The solid end-links attached to that particular bracelet were not designed to be removed, and they didn't fit the MKII case lugs well at all. :-(

I was actually very surprised that they fit my old Datejust really well, so that is the bracelet that ended up on the Datejust - So I guess I found the solution to my original quest - Which was to get a nice bracelet to fit the old Rolex.... :-d

And the Hadley-Roma bracelet (MB4216W) now fitted to the Nassau (with the generic 'glide-lock')....

(see this post ---> What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 442)

That bracelet has solid, heavy links also, but I had to use the '555' folded stainless sheet end-links to get it to fit on the MKII case. As supplied from HR, it had the old style single action (no locking mechanism) stainless sheet vintage-style clasp. So I removed that and adapted the heavy 'glide-lock-type' clasp to work. It is very nice.

--- Best ---

:think: -And- :)

After my morning shot of wake-up juice, it occurred to me that it would be possible to remove the 'hidden clasp' portion of that other bracelet along with the sections of removeable or adjustable links, and fit them to the Hadley-Roma, if one wanted to. I just don't want to do that.

:think: One of the drawbacks that I see with the hidden clasp, is that it is not super-easy to adjust the length. You would either have to add or remove links.

I am one of those people whose wrist seems to swell or shrink during the day, depending on what I am up to. So, for me, that 'glide-lock-type' is pretty comfortable and comvenient. Need more length? Open the clasp, lift the link and slide it out a notch or two. Back on the wrist and Done. Excellent.

Have a Great Day.....
Okay, would you maybe happen to have an image of the SEL and how it fits up to the mid casing by chance? Is the springbar position short of where it needs to be or is it too deep (as in closer to the mid case); if it's short then possibly the sel culd be shaped to bring the spring bar closer...

Thanks,
Randy


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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Re: So - You want to use a 'Jubilee-style' bracelet with your Key West / Nassau /...

Okay, would you maybe happen to have an image of the SEL and how it fits up to the mid casing by chance? Is the springbar position short of where it needs to be or is it too deep (as in closer to the mid case); if it's short then possibly the sel culd be shaped to bring the spring bar closer...

Thanks,
Randy


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:-( Sorry, no photo of that.

With the one that I tried, the first problem was that the radius against the case was wrong. The Jubilee solid end piece was machined for a case with a smaller diameter, say 36mm vs 39-40mm (?) for the MKII. If one were to re-cut or machine that to the proper dimension, then you would lose material and bring the end link even deeper into the lug, and that would further mess with the spring bar hole location, which was also in the wrong place.

:think: The Kingston / Nassau lug recess and the the way the lugs drop to the spring bar location is not the same as the Rolex's. I'm willing to guess that was designed that way 'on purpose'.

And since it fit the darn Datejust so well, I didn't spend any more time with it. ;-)


(Later Edit): Thinking about it some more, maybe I don't know enough about the different R_l_x case versions to be able to correctly select the best one for a 'submariner' type case. Some of the terminology used by different sellers seems vague (to say the least). I know from experience with this Project that I've picked out some parts that were described to fit the same group of watches, and yet the actual parts were completely different when I got right down and studied them to compare them to each other - a great example of that is all the different folded end pieces identified as '455B' and they are ALL different. Some in major, obvious ways, and some more subtle. That's why I ended up getting a bunch of different parts, and then just trying them - To see what could possibly work.

So, If someone has some more information that would help lead us down an easier path, or a better result, please contribute.

Thank You....

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Re: So - You want to use a 'Jubilee-style' bracelet with your Key West / Nassau /...

I am a huge fan of Jubilee bracelets and my rolex pepsi GMT lives on one 99% of the time, great work with this!
 

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Dear OCM,

After reading the whole thread, it is unclear to me which is the best solution at the end... Could you please summarize it?

Your friend,

G..
 

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This is so funny because I broke the straight tip of my Bergen tool, and have two holes in my fingers after some work on my own bracelet. Funny reading your opening post with the warnings!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Dear OCM,

After reading the whole thread, it is unclear to me which is the best solution at the end... Could you please summarize it?

Your friend,

G..
Hey There Camilo....Asked....And answered....

I don't know what the "Best Solution" may be. I found one that worked for me.

And the Hadley-Roma bracelet (MB4216W) now fitted to the Nassau (with the generic 'glide-lock')....

(see this post --->What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 442)

That bracelet has solid, heavy links also, but I had to use the '555' folded stainless sheet end-links to get it to fit on the MKII case. As supplied from HR, it had the old style single action (no locking mechanism) stainless sheet vintage-style clasp. So I removed that and adapted the heavy 'glide-lock-type' clasp to work. It is very nice.
There may be other, better solutions out there... It is possible there are other solutions that are "Better" than this....

I have seen that some others here had found Jubilee-type bracelets and posted photos of their MKII watches shown, fitted out with 'Super Jubilees' -- They (apparently) found some that fit better than any I have encountered. It would be great if they shared information about these...

|>|>

@66Cooper ---> What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 461
@66Cooper --->What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 462
@66Cooper --->What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 464


:-s Inquiring Minds Want to Know...(???)
 

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Thank you very much for your note and answer.

Where did you get the 555 end links from ?

Cheers.

G.
Hey There Camilo....Asked....And answered....



I have seen that some others here had found Jubilee-type bracelets and posted photos of their MKII watches shown, fitted out with 'Super Jubilees' -- They (apparently) found some that fit better than any I have encountered. It would be great if they shared information about these...

|>|>

@66Cooper ---> What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 461
@66Cooper --->What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 462
@66Cooper --->What MKII Are You Wearing? - Page 464


:-s Inquiring Minds Want to Know...(???)
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Thank you very much for your note and answer.

Where did you get the 555 end links from ?

Cheers.

G.
:think: Asked....And Answered. (From first post in thread.) ;-)

I found eBay seller 'wholesaleoutlet990' who lists all kinds and types of generic replacements for submariners, Datejusts and the like. He was showing about four or five different types of end-links for the Datejust and submariner cases, so I picked through those and ordered a selection of different types to try. What I found, eventually, is the ones numbered '555' and listed as "555 end piece for 65210H Jubilee Watch Band Rolex 20mm #8" seem to be the best ones that I have come across.

:rodekaart (Note credit for the first photo following is to 'wholesaleoutlet990' from the auction listing on eBay)
BUT-- Before you spend any money purchasing these, I hope you will go back and carefully read through what I wrote previously. These end links are not what I would call a "Drop In" as far as correct fitment. They needed to be 'worked' - that is re-shaped - to fit as well as I got them to. I did that by carefully rolling and stretching the sheet metal to get it to 'flow' -- It wasn't hard to do, just needed to pay attention to how the metal was reacting, and work patiently and slowly. Stainless steel 'work hardens' or gets stiff as it is shaped. Once you get to that certain point with stainless, it is difficult to get it to do, what you want it to do.

Once the metal has been rolled and 'stretched' I had to carefully remove metal from the ends (mostly) - (and some from the radius that fits against the case radius) to get them to fit. They are difficult to fit to the case as they fit tightly as far as the width.

:think: I suppose I could have removed more metal from the ends to make that easier, But...I didn't do it that way.

After I get them shaped correctly, I had to work slowly, a little bit at a time, side-to-side, to get the end links and bracelet fitted into the lug recess and get the springbar to snap into place. It was not what I would characterize as 'simple' -

--- I Hope this helps ---
 
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