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Hi there - I found someone selling an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean locally at a really low price. I assumed it was a replica, but curiosity got the better of me, so I emailed. They claim to have paid much more for it a year ago and have the original box, and paperwork (I just asked about a receipt, we'll see where that gets me).

My question to all of you Omega guru's is this, if I meet up with this guy and the watch looks legit, what are the tell tale signs that its a fake? How can I easily and/or quickly identify the watch as being real vs. replica. Basics like weight, fit and finish, etc would seem to be obvious. But what about the box and manuals? Do fakes usually come with such credentials?

Appreciate your help. I know the rule of thumb, that "if its too good to be true it probably is" probably applies here, but I've wanted an Omega since I was a kid and my dad had one, so if by some chance this is the real deal then I want to take advantage of it.

Thank you!
 

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The reps,especially frankens can be too good to tell these days without a lot of knowledge.

It could easily (thanks Ofrei!) have genuine dial and hands, and even a genuine Swiss 2892 movement. Boxes and manuals are easily available as are genuine straps/bracelets.

It needs to have the original credit card style ID cards with it. These have pictograms on giving details of the watch and details of the serial number etc. These need to match the watch itself, and any other paperwork with it. Contacting the original selling AD (as stated on the warranty card) with details is a good idea to confirm everything.

There are many Planet Oceans out there that people own and believe to be genuine that are in fact franken-fakes.
 

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Hi,

One good thing about PO fakes is that they tend to get the position of the He escape valve (The 2nd crown at 10 o'clock) wrong, for some reason which escapes me.

On real POs, the centre of the He crown is slightly above the 10 o'clock marker. On most fakes, it lines up perfectly with the marker.

Also, I've seen several fakes with white date wheel with black numbers. On the real deal, the date wheel is matte black and the font white.

Also, the date window edge is nicely bevelled on the real ones; fakes usually have a stamped out date window.

Those were just a few off the top of my head, but if you do a forum search for fake/real POs, I am sure you will find a thread or five, as these questions tend to be brought forward every so often.
 

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Hi. There can be many tell tale signs of a fake PO. The important thing is to, first of all, verify the presence of a serial number behind the 7 o'clock lug. Compare that with the number on the Warranty card.

Pics would help - there are many here who seem to be able to spot a fake a mile away.
 

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Hi,

On real POs, the centre of the He crown is slightly above the 10 o'clock marker. On most fakes, it lines up perfectly with the marker
Just for clarity and not to contradict Odd, the He valve on the chronograph sits level with the 10 o'clock marker unlike the non chrono which sits just above.

This is for your reference just incase you are going to purchase a chrono and turn it down because of the correct He alignment;-)

I've only just noticed this but the PO in the banner appears to have the He valve inline with the 10 o'clock marker - maybe we all have fakes:-d


For fear of incrimination - I am aware it's the camera angle
 

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Always take watches from A.D. and you will never have these problems....
 

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Always take watches from A.D. and you will never have these problems....
Instead replaced by a problem involving many hundreds more dollars mysteriously missing from one's bank account.
 

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Easiest way is to put the watch to your ear and count as your hear the pairs of tick tocks. If you count and time it exactly over say 20 seconds you should hear exactly 20*3.5 = 70 cycles for a true 7 beater co-ax.

Takes a bit of practice but it works very well.

The fakes normally have 6 beaters, even if it's a good Asian non chrono movement.

Earlier 2500A will beat even faster at 8bps.
 

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The majority of decent fakes have ETA clone movements or gen eta movements, 8 beats per second. The latest rep cases are 1:1 with correct HE valve position and correctly engraved serial on back of lug too. When a dishonest seller adds a genuine dial and hands to these then unless you start opening it up you aren't going to tell unless you've handled plenty of gen PO's yourself or have one to hand to compare minute differences.
 

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The majority of decent fakes have ETA clone movements or gen eta movements, 8 beats per second. The latest rep cases are 1:1 with correct HE valve position and correctly engraved serial on back of lug too. When a dishonest seller adds a genuine dial and hands to these then unless you start opening it up you aren't going to tell unless you've handled plenty of gen PO's yourself or have one to hand to compare minute differences.
Well if it's meant to be a late PO with 7 beater then the fake will beat to fast as it's a non co-ax.
Too fast or too slow will point to a fake (unless it's meant to be a first gen 2500A)
 

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If it's not a genuine dial--look at the Omega logo. The feet on the symbol should be flat and not curve up at the ends.

Reference for curving feet- printed logos have the curved feet, applied logos have flat feet.
 

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The latest rep cases are 1:1 with correct HE valve position and correctly engraved serial on back of lug too. When a dishonest seller adds a genuine dial and hands to these
I have to confess that I have not seen or heard of correctly engraved serial numbers (presumably matching cards). Neither have I heard of anyone actually discovering that they have received a PO franken with genuine hands and dial in a fake case with a fake movement. In addition, I have never seen a PO that gets the sapphire glazed lume dot on the bezel correct.

Given that you have already made some fairly interesting claims on this forum which have yet, to my knowledge, to be substantiated, combined with the fact that WUS Omega is pretty close to the state of the art at fake spotting, I guess I'm pretty keen to see substantiation of these assertions.

I am not accusing you of anything, merely asking for corroboration of some claims which, if substantiated, make Ebay a substantially more hostile place. As usual, primary sources and photographs are best. I really am sorry to be sceptical, but it's the whole 'boy who cried wolf' thing. Naturally, when you prove my scepticism to be unfounded I will apologise equally publicly. However, it is important that claims on public forums such as this can be verified as they have real world implications. As it stands, the received wisdom is that there isn't a perfect PO fake. If there is I want to see it.



As far as the PO goes, Omega didn't fit any A or B revision Cal.2500 to the PO or SMP, only the AT and Deville. I'm not sure about the Deville but I know that the AT coaxial always has a display back and so a PO or SMP will always be at 25200.
 

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I have to confess that I have not seen or heard of correctly engraved serial numbers (presumably matching cards). Neither have I heard of anyone actually discovering that they have received a PO franken with genuine hands and dial in a fake case with a fake movement. In addition, I have never seen a PO that gets the sapphire glazed lume dot on the bezel correct.

Given that you have already made some fairly interesting claims on this forum which have yet, to my knowledge, to be substantiated, combined with the fact that WUS Omega is pretty close to the state of the art at fake spotting, I guess I'm pretty keen to see substantiation of these assertions.

I am not accusing you of anything, merely asking for corroboration of some claims which is substantiated make Ebay a substantially more hostile place. As usual, primary sources and photographs are best. I really am sorry to be sceptical, but it's the whole 'boy who cried wolf' thing. Naturally, when you prove my scepticism to be unfounded I will apologise equally publicly. However, it is important that claims on public forums such as this can be verified as they have real world implications. As it stands, the received wisdom is that there isn't a perfect PO fake. If there is I want to see it.



As far as the PO goes, Omega didn't fit any A or B revision Cal.2500 to the PO or SMP, only the AT and Deville. I'm not sure about the Deville but I know that the AT coaxial always has a display back and so a PO or SMP will always be at 25200.

Nice TARDIS...
 

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(...)When a dishonest seller adds a genuine dial and hands to these then unless you start opening it up you aren't going to tell unless you've handled plenty of gen PO's yourself or have one to hand to compare minute differences.
-I really don't see this happening; buying a genuine set of dial+hands will set you back close to $300; that eats a significant chunk out of a faker's profits - particularly when you don't need to do 'perfect' to fool the majority of eBayers, 'pretty good' will do nicely.

Not to mention the fact that if Omega is any good at making life hard for fakers, they would start wondering when some schmuck started ordering dials & hands by the dozen...

As for the latest fakes having the He valve in the right place, genuine dial & hands, I would suspect (Unless you've had a chance to handle one of these überfakes in the flesh) that the seller simply took a photo of a genuine PO to go along with his fake listing.
 

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i think u could also look at the micro engraving and the red dot at the case back ,it would be of some help too right
The micro engraving will be copied sooner or later. Unless it contains some specific content not meant for the naked eye. In which case it is useless as a reference for the sort of observation one makes while checking out a purchase.

The red dot only means that the watch case has not been opened.

I still feel that the best "first reference" would be the Serial number on the watch matched with the number on the international warranty card.

Add to that, as someone pointed out, a quick check with the AD whose name the warranty card contains should establish largely that the watch is authentic.

Of course, a keen, experienced eye, which many members here appear to have, will spot a fake even before they begin to peer at serial numbers and such like.
 

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The red dot only means that the watch case has not been opened.
-To be more precise, the red dot only means that someone applied a red dot to the caseback.

Also, it easily falls off. On my PO (Bought from an AD, plastic wrap removed as I watched), the red dot was already missing.

(In other words: The absence of a red dot wouldn't raise any red flags with me, and definitely should not be a dealbreaker.)
 

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Ever think that maybe it is genuine? Maybe 100% authentic, and if its really that good a deal maybe it was removed from someone elses wrist without their express permission. I mean all the stolen ones have to end up somewhere, gotta be lots of genuine people out there wearing stolen watches they bought in good faith.
 

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Ever think that maybe it is genuine? Maybe 100% authentic, and if its really that good a deal maybe it was removed from someone elses wrist without their express permission. I mean all the stolen ones have to end up somewhere, gotta be lots of genuine people out there wearing stolen watches they bought in good faith.
Very true!

But those wouldnt be accompanied by genuine Warranty cards and other documents. To counterfeit those the thief would, at the very least, have to find out the ADs name to place on the fake card accompanying the watch.

It is hard to be a 100% sure of the antecedents of something like a watch. But I believe it is not impossible.
 
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