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Steel fixed-bezel GMTs

5.6K views 19 replies 17 participants last post by  zuckermania  
#1 · (Edited)
I've been thinking about steel fixed-bezel GMTs recently and wondering what all is out there. We've got the early ones like the Glycine Airman (edit - not fixed, but similar aesthetic) and Rolex Explorer II, but thinking about what all is out there.

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Grand Seiko's done some cool versions in both 9F quartz and automatic, there's the Christopher Ward, and of course the recent Tudor Black Bay Pro. Let's see what else is out there!

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FWIW, I'm sorely tempted by both of these Grand Seikos...
 
#3 ·
Crap, you're right! My bad on the airman...

Yeah, fair number of homages from the likes of Steinhart, but thinking of more original designs in this general style. Maybe just not that popular.

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#7 ·
Just purchased a used Christopher Ward C63 GMT, with a fixed bezel. There is much to admire about the watch. However, the downward slanting steel bezel sometimes makes the numerals difficult to see without twisting my wrist.
 
#11 ·
Aesthetics, mainly. Rotating bezels usually mean at least a marginally thicker case, and of course the glass and bezel have to be perfectly round. If the bezel is fixed you can do pretty much whatever you want. Cartier could make a Santos GMT if they wanted to.
 
#15 ·
Inexpensive but well made View attachment 17263641

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It's pretty remarkable how fast San Martin moves. The initial one they did was a no-date with a really heavy fauxtina that wasn't super well liked, so they changed it to that one, and then the NH34 came out and they changed it again and put that in it. This is all in the space of like six months.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I have about 8-9 GMT's.
My Hamilton Jazzmaster World Timer has a fixed bezel (and rotating city ring).
It would be a lot easier to use if it had a rotating bezel, or automatically rotating hour ring like Fredrique Constant and Patek. Instead, you have to use the crown at 10 o clock and turn the city ring, so London is lined up with the GMT hand.
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Oh ya, and a Parnis EXP II homage
 
#18 ·
Here's my Accutron Astronaut on an original bullet bracelet. It was fully serviced two years ago by a specialist in Brooklyn who inherited an estate sale of Accutron parts, and it's been a delight. here it is being inspected by my beloved cat
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#20 ·
I love the olive dial of the green grand seiko. That would be my pick by a country mile. I've owned a lot of GMT "flavor" watches, including the Exp 2 42, and FWIW I've never missed having a turning bezel. Two time zones is enough for me... The only time it's nice to have a turning bezel is if you have a true GMT and keep the 24 hour hand set to local time. That lets you use the bezel for a second time zone, you get a 24 hour indication of your home time, and since it's a true GMT when you travel it's easy.

I'm also a big fan of world timers like the Hamilton posted above. Questionable practicality in this age of Siri, but hey, I love moonphases too and those are even less useful....