I have been installing two movements the past couple of days with decidedly different ease. The first was an ETA 2824 clone. To remove the stem I used a tool to depress the tiny release button. After cutting to length I reinserted the stem. I knew when I had it inserted properly when the release button "popped" back up. No problems with that one. The next one was a 2836 clone. Stem removed the same way. But after multiple attempts to reinsert it, I can't get it to snap in to place. The release button has stayed depressed and nothing I can do will get it to pop back up again. Anyone have advice on what I can try next?
roykirk
Been doing some more reading and it seems likely I screwed things up by removing the stem when it wasn't in the time set position and/or I depressed the release button too far. Sounds like I've likely messed up the movement unless I want to try to take it apart and fix it. Oh well, lesson learned.
This is a common mistake made with Eta 28xx movements.
Dos and Don'ts:
Always r/r the stem in setting position.
Use a screwdriver that fits into the detent button 'keyway'.
If you use a pin or little bitty screwdriver it is easy to push the detent button too far and shove the setting lever out of whack...this is probably what happened.
The fix:
Remove the hands, dial, and date wheel/s...fun fun! Look closely and see if you can tell what is out of whack by comparing it with a clear picture of the same movement with all setting parts in their proper location paying close attention to make sure the 'yoke' is riding in the groove in the sliding pinion. If not, this happened when the stem was removed in the wrong crown/stem position.
The other problem...detent button stuck too deep in the plate is also fairly easy to spot...the set lever will be sitting too far away from the plate and probably out of mesh with the 'double corrector' lever.
The fix is to loosen the screw/s holding the parts in place and move them back to their proper position.
I know all the above sounds like a lot of hooey but after comparing dislocated setting parts to a clear picture of correctly assembled setting parts it will be fairly easy to put it all back in place correctly. Look at an oiling chart or parts list on the 'net to ID the parts.
Btw...put it back together with the stem through the sliding and winding pinions.
If you can scare up a high mileage (aka cheap) Eta 28xx or disabled etaclone somewhere, get it and practice on it. You do not need the winding assembly, just everything on the dial side.
Believe it or not, it is fairly easy to fix these problems, the worst part being r/r the hands and dial if you have not done it before. The dial hands r/r will involve a hand remover of some sort and a steady hand...plus good magnification.
'Quick and Dirty' sliding pinion reset:
Sometimes you can reset the sliding pinion when the stem has been removed in the wrong position by removing the auto wind assembly, ratchet wheel, and barrel bridge (with the stem removed), then see if you can slip the sliding pinion back to where the 'yoke' is back in the groove, install the stem, see if it winds and sets, and leave the stem in setting position to remove it again if needed.
It's worth a try and beats paying 'the guy down the street' $40.
No Q&D shortcut on the detent button fix except maybe a 2 pound hammer.
　
　
　
Dos and Don'ts:
Always r/r the stem in setting position.
Use a screwdriver that fits into the detent button 'keyway'.
If you use a pin or little bitty screwdriver it is easy to push the detent button too far and shove the setting lever out of whack...this is probably what happened.
The fix:
Remove the hands, dial, and date wheel/s...fun fun! Look closely and see if you can tell what is out of whack by comparing it with a clear picture of the same movement with all setting parts in their proper location paying close attention to make sure the 'yoke' is riding in the groove in the sliding pinion. If not, this happened when the stem was removed in the wrong crown/stem position.
The other problem...detent button stuck too deep in the plate is also fairly easy to spot...the set lever will be sitting too far away from the plate and probably out of mesh with the 'double corrector' lever.
The fix is to loosen the screw/s holding the parts in place and move them back to their proper position.
I know all the above sounds like a lot of hooey but after comparing dislocated setting parts to a clear picture of correctly assembled setting parts it will be fairly easy to put it all back in place correctly. Look at an oiling chart or parts list on the 'net to ID the parts.
Btw...put it back together with the stem through the sliding and winding pinions.
If you can scare up a high mileage (aka cheap) Eta 28xx or disabled etaclone somewhere, get it and practice on it. You do not need the winding assembly, just everything on the dial side.
Believe it or not, it is fairly easy to fix these problems, the worst part being r/r the hands and dial if you have not done it before. The dial hands r/r will involve a hand remover of some sort and a steady hand...plus good magnification.
'Quick and Dirty' sliding pinion reset:
Sometimes you can reset the sliding pinion when the stem has been removed in the wrong position by removing the auto wind assembly, ratchet wheel, and barrel bridge (with the stem removed), then see if you can slip the sliding pinion back to where the 'yoke' is back in the groove, install the stem, see if it winds and sets, and leave the stem in setting position to remove it again if needed.
It's worth a try and beats paying 'the guy down the street' $40.
No Q&D shortcut on the detent button fix except maybe a 2 pound hammer.
　
　
　
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