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Mansrow asked earlier about pictures... I am NO expert and most of your shots are better than mine... But, I thought maybe we could have a thread on it. (Plus my ride got cancelled for this morning and I already have an espresso in me!)

So if your camera has a macro setting, you will want to use that. Im not sure what this does. (Sjors can explain the science or technology! :) ) But it allows the little elves that live in your camera to focus on things VERY close up.

Lighting is probably the biggest thing. Im a fan of natural light. Sunrise and sunset make beautiful light. Whatever source of light you use, you will want to diffuse it. A macro shot cant have that brilliant flash. Especially when photographing something as shiny as a cool G Shock. I used to take a single piece of paper and hold it over the flash on the cam. It would let enough light to snap the shot but not so much as to cause reflections...

Then I built a light box using a translucent storage bin and lots of BRIGHT external lights. This was fun but tedious... So then I jsut started all my shots outside...

Here are some examples...

See how washed out this is? Its a flash in a macro setting...


This one was done with a piece of paper over the flash... look how it softens the light...

But these were still early experimentations...
This one was with a light box... (Still a little washed)

I like interesting colorful backgrounds... but dont let them overtake the subject...
This is just a fleece jacket with some bike tools...

Sometimes simplicity is best... and sometimes you get lucky!



And some watches just photograph better than others. This one you could do anything to and the shots just come out ok!




Then I started playing with outside light... its easier than using a box and a zillion lights!
But time of day is everything...




Here is an interesting shot... This is a piece of paper curved over on a desk with another piece just behind it making a little light box. Then the desk light is RIGHT ON TOP (dont catch the paper on fire).

See how soft the lighting is... mmmm like buttah

This one is on the bumper of my truck as the sun is jsut getting behind the trees...


mmm early morning sun... yummy... I like this one because of the texture of the rocks... simple, but a nice background...

and one more..


I think the biggest issue is macro setting, and lighting... beyond that about one in 12-15 shots make it to you guys. Many are discarded because of composition or glare. And personally, I don't re-touch any of my pics in software, but I hear thats how you get the really REALLY good "catalog" shots.

So, my pics aren't that good. But maybe we can get some follow up posts here and learn from each other!

THANKS!:-!
 

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Nice pics and writeup.
Other tips...
1. Use a tripod. This is almost a must for extreme macro (closeup) shots.
2. I find one of the most useful tools in getting good photos is to edit the pics with Photoshop. The curves tool is the most useful. This can be used to bring out details in the dark areas of pics, thus fine tuning the exposure. See attachments of a before and after "curves" adjustment I did using one of your pics. See how the details in the black objects show up better. The clone stamp tool can also remove dust specks from the watch which tend to show up in macro shots.

But yeah, getting good pics is mostly just trial and error, mainly with lighting. At least the "film" is free with digital.:)

Here is one of my better watch shots...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/thaiguy69/For sale items/IMG_3570.jpg
 

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Jeff,

Great shots! I agree that only about 1 in 10 is worthy. And I'm not sure I could add much more. I also try the manual focus feature of my cameras, as it can give more flexibility in the shot. I also like nature in the background.

Again, good job, and thanks for the tutorial!b-):)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Probably a good bit.. but mine is nothing special at all. Its a little "point and click" travel camera.

Actually Ive never liked the normal shots it takes LOL... I do like its macro abilities though...

I use a Toshiba PDR 3320 3.2 mega pixel whatsy whosie jobber.

The cracked housing was from a ski trip and comes optional.
 

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I have a Canon A710IS, a Canon A720IS, and a Canon S3IS. They all do great. As they are a bit older, not sure the prices. Not the smallest, nit the largest. But, good options!
 

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Great thread, Jeff!

Now let's get really close:





I really like the different perspective a close macro shot gives.

This does, however, present a few significant challenges.

First, a tripod is a must - any vibration is greatly magnified at this range.

Light: although I would rather shoot with available light for those "atmosphere" shots, 1:1 macro almost requires a strobe. In this case, I used a Macro Ring Light on the front of the lens which evenly flashes light all around the subject.

Lens: definitely a macro lens - in this case with a Macro Extender to really get up close and personal.

Exposure: with a strobe and macro shooting, it's important to get enough depth of field to make the photo look good. In this case, I used f32.

Looking forward to seeing more shots!

.:-!
 

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great pics Jeff. very inspiring that i took a pic of my 1500. great tips and i was impressive u took all the pics with a 3.2 MP. It proves that my S700 sucks.

and gaijin, those are excellent macros. wats a macro extender and will it work with a digicam?

here mine from this morning











i really really want to do a closeup of the needle hands but it was really blurly.
 

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and gaijin, those are excellent macros. wats a macro extender and will it work with a digicam?
A macro extender is a lens barrel with some lens elements in it that is placed between a removable macro lens and the camera. It extends the distance to the subject (for any given magnification) and allows closer focus/greater magnification.

It can only be used with an interchangeable lens camera - not with a fixed lens camera.

Usually, with a fixed lens camera (like a "point and shoot") you can use a "macro adapter" lens element which is attached in front of the camera lens to allow closer focus than the "macro" function built into the camera.

In any event - use of a tripod is critical for nice crisp shots :-!
 

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A macro extender is a lens barrel with some lens elements in it that is placed between a removable macro lens and the camera. It extends the distance to the subject (for any given magnification) and allows closer focus/greater magnification.

It can only be used with an interchangeable lens camera - not with a fixed lens camera.

Usually, with a fixed lens camera (like a "point and shoot") you can use a "macro adapter" lens element which is attached in front of the camera lens to allow closer focus than the "macro" function built into the camera.

In any event - use of a tripod is critical for nice crisp shots :-!
tripod-----checked

sounds like im royally screwed. cant find a macro adapter for my S700. :-(

thanks for the advice, gaijin !!!

oh, Jeff !!! hows the macro on ur digicam?
 
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