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Thanks for posting all these tear downs. I love the look of those old Hamilton movements. If only they had been a little bigger or my wrist was thinner...
 

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Yummy! I only wish more appreciated what you have. These vintage Hamiltons are gems...
 

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Lovely article. Thank you. My grandfather's Hamilton is a similar era - 1936, and my watchmaker actually discouraged me from having him refurbish it, as he was unsure that he could get a new mainspring. I see that you succeeded. That's very encouraging!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lovely article. Thank you. My grandfather's Hamilton is a similar era - 1936, and my watchmaker actually discouraged me from having him refurbish it, as he was unsure that he could get a new mainspring. I see that you succeeded. That's very encouraging!
If it's the same movement, I still have 2 spare ones! Happy to send you one.
 

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Christian, I was surprised that you oiled the cap directly and not by pushing oil through the hole when the cap is back in place. This method works too, but it is a lot harder to place the cap precisely without smearing the oil drop in the process...
 

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Christian, I was surprised that you oiled the cap directly and not by pushing oil through the hole when the cap is back in place. This method works too, but it is a lot harder to place the cap precisely without smearing the oil drop in the process...
Hmmm... a bit of a religious discussion here. I used to do it your way, until my master watchmaker, from whom I take tuition, showed me how to do it the way I do it now. I'd say your chances of smearing the oil are just the same if you oil the jewel rather than the cap. In both cases, you have to place the cap in the middle or you smear the oil.

There are even people oiling the jewel and the cap, and I can't really say what's best. The result counts - e.g. a nice round blob of oil visible after assembly and a good amplitude.

I'm in no position to favour any method, but I personally like to do it the way I'm doing it now. Come back in a year and I might have changed my mind ;-)

Best regards,

Christian
 

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Hmmm... a bit of a religious discussion here. I used to do it your way, until my master watchmaker, from whom I take tuition, showed me how to do it the way I do it now. I'd say your chances of smearing the oil are just the same if you oil the jewel rather than the cap. In both cases, you have to place the cap in the middle or you smear the oil.

There are even people oiling the jewel and the cap, and I can't really say what's best. The result counts - e.g. a nice round blob of oil visible after assembly and a good amplitude.

I'm in no position to favour any method, but I personally like to do it the way I'm doing it now. Come back in a year and I might have changed my mind ;-)

Best regards,

Christian
It's not really my way, but a common way (pretty much any book on watchmaking recommends it). There is a zero chance of smearing the oil, because it is inserted through the jewel hole while the cap is already in place, screwed in. There are 2 ways of getting the oil through the hole: 1) by dropping oil in the jewel cup and then pushing through with oil inserter, or 2) by using a special oiler that can reach through the hole.

I actually used to do it like you do until I tried the other method. Nothing wrong with yours, just more risk.
 

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I too use to oil the cap, but find it much easier(and that I have better success with proper oil placement) by pushing through the hole. I have a collection of "used" balance staffs(most with one pivot broken) in various pivot sizes that I use just for this task.
 

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De Carle was of the opinion that it was enough to oil the end jewels from the balance side and 'did not find it necessary' to feed the oil through.
I am of the opinion that the balance pivots carry through the oil quite satisfactorily
Just happened to have that page open!
 

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If it's the same movement, I still have 2 spare ones! Happy to send you one.
That's an extremely generous offer. To answer your question I popped it open to learn that it's a front loader like the one you did, and I don't quite feel skilled enough to risk hurting it for the next step of removal. I know it won't help much, but here's the front, opened up. I'll PM you later on if I get the nerve to go further, or I'll ask my watchmaker. I would love to pass it on well-kept to a niece or nephew someday. (It currently runs beautifully still, but it hasn't been serviced in 30+ years so I only wind it a few turns about once a year to keep it from stiffening up.)

HamiOpen.jpg
 

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That's an extremely generous offer. To answer your question I popped it open to learn that it's a front loader like the one you did, and I don't quite feel skilled enough to risk hurting it for the next step of removal. I know it won't help much, but here's the front, opened up. I'll PM you later on if I get the nerve to go further, or I'll ask my watchmaker. I would love to pass it on well-kept to a niece or nephew someday. (It currently runs beautifully still, but it hasn't been serviced in 30+ years so I only wind it a few turns about once a year to keep it from stiffening up.)
Looks very similar, but not the same - almost looks like you got a more round / oval movement there. Nevertheless, the mainspring I have fits the calibre 980 and 982.
You can lift out the movement from the case back - it's only attached by friction. I do see some cracks on the left of the case back, though, so you might want to be careful. Maybe your watchmaker should take it from here. Once the movement is out, you will be able to see the calibre number. 980 or 982 is fine - my mainspring will fit.

Best regards,

Christian
 

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I know this is an old thread, but does anyone on this thread do repair work on Hamilton's? I have an old Hamilton Myron and purchased some parts and similar movements online to see if I could swap out parts and get it running. I got it running for about a day and a half and then I (foolishly) tried to disassemble and try it all again. Now it runs and stops, runs and stops. Wondering if anyone would be interested in cleaning/working on the watch in return for any excess parts leftover.
 
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