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Hi all, went to put on my beloved T200 today and low and behold I cannot get it to sync to my (new) iPhone, got rid of the old app and am trying with the new Casio Watches app but even the app will not let me log in after I have started an account, Any help great fully appreciated. Thanks
 

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So, I had picked up THIS one for really cheap when I thought I wanted straight end links, but then decided that THIS one (in silver/20mm) had curved end links and a little bit more obvious definition between the brushed and polished links, for not much more. When the second arrived, I decided that I liked the butterfly clasp better and swapped it from the first, so its actually hybridized between the two. The links are VERY slightly differently sized between the two bracelets, (first is a tiny bit smaller) but close enough that you can interchange the parts and you would never notice unless you already knew and are looking for the difference. Neither is "fancy" but both are a steal for the money (solid, not hollow inner links) and I would wager that the second one comes from the same factory that makes the Uncle's bracelets, though perhaps with slightly less rigorous QC. Straight-end model is click-in and go, curved endlinks take a little massaging to get the right fit. (edit: added picture of both bracelets for comparison)

ALSO, I have something that I do as a bit of a bracelet-quality cheat. I have a small $25 countertop deep-fryer that is half-full of microcrystalline wax, and I throw any new bracelet (off the watch, you monster!) in there for 15 mins at a temp hot enough to melt the wax to watery liquid, not actually boiling it. I jiggle the basket to make sure all trapped bubbles from inside the links get out, then pull it out and let it cool off. Takes a little time with a rag wiping the residual wax from the surface and picking/flossing the gaps, but it absolutely de-jangle/rattles any bracelet and makes it feel vastly more "premium" than before. A hidden bonus when waxing Oceanus bracelets is that when you remove links, the pin collars stay put in the link unless you pick it out, so no worries about having those fly off the desk and into the abyss.
Some great information. Thanks!! (y):) I will take a look at the bracelets you mentioned - I've always wanted to try a jubilee-style one on my ice-blue T200. I'm also interested to see what a mesh bracelet would look like on a T200 if anyone has any photos.
 

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Some great information. Thanks!! (y):) I will take a look at the bracelets you mentioned - I've always wanted to try a jubilee-style one on my ice-blue T200. I'm also interested to see what a mesh bracelet would look like on a T200 if anyone has any photos.
I can post one in the morning, but I feel like I've been spamming the thread a little lately. :p
 

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I can post one in the morning, but I feel like I've been spamming the thread a little lately. :p
Thanks! And I can't imagine anyone would think that you're spamming the thread, especially given the information you provided about wax treating bracelets to stop the dreaded rattle! That was a new one on me and a great idea. (y)

The bottom line with this thread is that we're all here because we feel like we've discovered something really unique in our Oceanus' and it's just fun to find a bunch of like minded people to share that enthusiasm with. :)
 

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Some great information. Thanks!! (y):) I will take a look at the bracelets you mentioned - I've always wanted to try a jubilee-style one on my ice-blue T200. I'm also interested to see what a mesh bracelet would look like on a T200 if anyone has any photos.
Here's mesh bracelet. Also, with regard to the waxing, I use microcrystalline wax because its what I have for another project, but I think that common paraffin would probably work just as well and be less hassle when it comes to removing the excess after the bracelet cools off, since its less smear-y than microcrystalline.


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Here's mesh bracelet. Also, with regard to the waxing, I use microcrystalline wax because its what I have for another project, but I think that common paraffin would probably work just as well and be less hassle when it comes to removing the excess after the bracelet cools off, since its less smear-y than microcrystalline.


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Thanks for the info and for posting these photos. The mesh looks good! I'll have to put one of those on my (ever growing!) list of watch related things to buy :)
 

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I first stumbled upon the Oceanus after seeing the Jody's video featuring the S5000. The idea of a high end titanium casio with independently operating subdials stood out to me, though I quickly shelved the idea after seeing the price being almost double my budget as well as feeling a bit underwhelmed watching the time it took to switch between time and stopwatch mode. Fast forward a few months and I stumbled upon his video featuring the beautifully deep green T4000C. After yet another ebay search, I learned that while the green variant was a bit too rich for me the blue T4000 came in just around $500 shipped.

When I first unboxed the watch, I was admittedly a bit nervous. Just the weekend before, I had purchased a the full metal casioak and been very underwhelmed. The rose gold polishing looked incredibly cheap as if it was a fashion watch. The bracelet had gaps you could drive a car through and jangled as if it was rattling itself apart. Worst of all the dial felt plain from the reflective indices and hands, again assuming you could even see the dial in direct light through noncoated mineral glass. It left me with a pretty bitter taste in my mouth especially after hearing casio fans showering heaps of praise proclaiming it to be a fantastically well built watch. Fortunately, I can confidently say that was not the case for the T4000.

Without forcing y'all to suffer through another couple blocks of texts:
The Good:
-Short male end links let the bracelet drop straight down from the ends of the case, perfect for those of us with smaller wrists
-The ultrafine brushed finishing on the case and bracelet contrasts the mirrored parts nicely
-Unlike the press photos make it seem, the dial seems a bit less cluttered in person with the chapter ring blue being a very subtle difference and not too in your face.

The Meh:
-My only really stylistic dislikes are the little am/pm transition dial next to the world time, and the chrono style pushers. I am growing to appreciate the am/pm dial at least acting like a tiny 24 hour dial, but I am still disappointed by how mushy the pushers feel
-The date wheel is very deep relative to the dial. Granted I imagine this was more of a design constraint due to all the internals needed to drive the hands
-I cant quite figure out how to consistently undo the bracelet without extending the microadjust. Admittedly this is user error hah.

The Surprises:
-I didn't quite understand what people meant by the dial had depth until glanced at the watch from the side. From there, you can notice the differences in height between the elevated dial hands and floating indices. It really does make the watch face much more interesting to look at and feel premium.
-I also didn't picture how the dial changed in light as it did seem to be to be more of a deep blue. It was only exposing it to direct light did I notice green iridescent starburst
-More then just the lightweight (only 20g heavier then a aluminum rubber strapped apple watch!), I'm most surprised by the lack of coldness I associate with traditional stainless steel bracelets. The back of the watchcase almost feels warm sitting on my wrist.

And of course a couple wrist shots to demo the depth effect and the sunburst. Just barely fits on my 6.5" wrist.
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Trying to pick a T4000:

  • CL-2AJF (leather) - $440. Brightest dial. But somewhat inflexible because you don't get a titanium strap with it, and I assume they are not that easy to buy separately!?
Watch Analog watch Gesture Clock Finger


  • -1AJF - $460. Comes with titanium strap, can switch it for others. I'm not a huge fan of all-silver, but this seems a bit more flexible, just add your own strap and wear it like the CL.
  • Watch Analog watch Clock Rectangle Silver


  • A-1AJF - $500. Basically the same but with black bezel.
Watch Analog watch Light Product Black


  • BA-1A3JF - $610. I think this one has the coolest face. Black strap. But it's like $150 more.
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Any thoughts?
 

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Any thoughts?
I personally ruled out the CL-2AJF as the bracelet seems impossible to source on its own, while sourcing a solid leather strap is pretty simple. Skipped the A-1AJF as the blue indices/hands on a dark blue dial seemed tricky to read.

That said, considering youre not a fan of the silver look, would suggest going for the BA-1A3JF. Yeah its $150 more vs the T4000 but you do get a more unique dial and color way. At least to me, it would be a upgrade in visuals vs just stepping up to the A-1AJF.
 

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@thelawnet something I didn't know about the BA until recently is that it's more durable DLC coating, not ion plating.

I'd love to see the CL or base model module with the BA case and bracelet...

Also, there's several differences between the A and the base model dial but I prefer the base model dial.

Between the models you've got here I'd go with the base model and look for one used in good condition. You might be surprised what a few weeks of scanning ebay turns up.
 

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I checked eBay. Base models goes for $375 to $400 in excellent used condition. Problem with that for me is I'm in Indonesia so they won't necessarily ship here and not such a big saving on new

There is a BA that sold at $450 and then relisted at $475 numerous times but didn't sell. That seems like a more reasonable price compared to $375 for a base model
 
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