The Seamaster Story from 1957 to 2014 >>> a pictorial identification guide

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Discussion Starter · Jan 3, 2015 (Edited)

This is a thread I posted on a french forum and translated for you as I could:

Here is a brief history of the diver's Seamasters from 1957 to 2014. I took in account Seamasters with an automatic movement, a rotating bezel and a size of 39mm and bigger.

Note that I do not pretend to know everything on the issue, and many points are unclear. I based my search on a maximum of sources, but it turned out that those that were supposed to be the most reliable are partly wrong (Omega by Richon, Omegamania, ..). I'd love to buy a "SEAMASTER ONLY" book, but I'm afraid that it will never be possible as the production of Seamasters was much more anarchic and less regular than Speedmasters.
I do not have the 3 older models, nor "pre-Bond" models nor the 2009 Ploprof, so pictures of these models are credit Omega (catalogs / website)

Seamaster 300

Semaster 300 from 1957-
CK2913 model: recognizable by the "broad arrow" hour hand, straight lugs without crown protection, small triangles dial, thin bezel insert missing most of the time. Movements 500, 501 or 550 no date. WR 200m. Bracelet 7077/6, remplacement 7912/506

Seamaster 300 from 1960-
CK14755 model: recognizable by the "small arrow" minute hand, straight lugs without crown protection, small triangles dial, thin bezel insert missing most of the time. Movements 550 or 552 no date. WR 200m. Bracelet 7912/506, remplacement 1035/630

Seamaster 300 from1962-
165.014 is a transitional model with either CK14755 hands or baton hands, but still with straight lugs without crown protection. Dial is either the same as 14755 or straight indexes as next generation. Thin bezel insert missing most of the time. Movement 550 or 552 no date. WR 200m. Bracelet 1035/630

Seamaster 300 from 1964-
165.024 model with Smeedmaster case (lyre lugs). Baton hands till about 1967, then sword hands. Dial with straight indexes or big triangle (military from 1966-). At least 5 differents bezel inserts. Movements 550 or 552. WR 200m. Bracelet 1039/516, remplacement 1171/633.
This one is a 165.024-64 baton hands, all original, sold in 1966:

165.0324 "NOS", New Old Stock, I'd rather call it "New New Stock", case, bracelet, dial, hands are factory new. Movement is old stock from my father in law. I love this watch as it's wearable on a daily basis like a new watch, unlike a real vintage that might fall apart. Moreover it has a very strong lume and it's a very important point to me.

Seamaster 300 date from 1967-
166.024 model very similar to 165.024, but 565 date movement.
Below 166.0324 NOS (same remark as 165.0324):

Seamaster 200

Seamaster 200 from 1969-
166.068 model, yellow dial aka "banana" ou grey dial aka "poppy". Service dial is all grey. The only seamaster with red/black bezel. Black sword hands. 565 date movement. WR 200m. Bracelet 1171/631.
"Banana" sold in 1972, revised, new dial and hands.

"Service dial" sold in 1971:

Seamaster 200 from 1971-
166.0091 model, "Pilot" case, black dial, black sword hands (sometimes with ploprof hands, but shouldn't), 1002 date movement. WR 200m. Bracelet 1162/172 or mesh 1247/237.
This "091" was sold in 1973 on Corfam strap:

Seamaster 200 from 1974-
166.0177 model, aka "SHOM", WR 200m, 1012 date movement. Bracelet 1162/172 or mesh 1247/237.
"SHOM" NOS :

Seamaster 120

Seamaster 120 from 1969-74
166.073 model aka "deep blue", blue dial and bezel, sword hands. 565 date movement. WR 120m. Bracelet 1170/634, remplacement 1162/172 or mesh 1247/237.
"Deep Blue" sold in 1971, revised, new dial and hands:

Seamaster 120 from 1969-
166.088 model. White hour/minute hands, blue second hand. Dark blue bezel. 1002 date movement. WR 120m. Bracelet 1171/650.
This one was sold in 1973, totally original:

Seamaster 120 chronograph from 1972-
176.004 model, aka "Big Blue", only seamaster chronograph from the '70 with dive bezel. 1040 chronograph date movement. WR 120m. Bracelet 1170/653, remplacement 1162/172, mesh 1247/237 or on rubber.
"Big Blue" new old stock

Seamaster 120 from 1978-
166.0250 model, aka "Baby Ploprof", ploprof hands, WR 120m, 1010 date movement. Bracelet 1162/172 or mesh 1247/237.
"Baby Ploprof" new old stock :

Seamaster 120 from 1978-
166.0251 model with 1010 date movement (1978). From 1979 it's called 366.0858 with 1012 movement. Sometimes called "baby ploprof" too. WR 120m. The only diver's Seamaster with an integrated bracelet 1321/295.
This one is totally original and never been opened (red dot on the back):

Seamaster 600 Ploprof and Seamaster 1000

Seamaster 600 from 1970-
166.0077 model aka "PloProf". 3 types of dials. 5 types of bezels. 1002 date movement. WR 600m. Bracelet 1000/0, remplacement 1162/162, mesh 1266/237 or rubber 24mm.
2 interesting ploprofs with different dials, bezels and cases, sold in 1972 and 1975, all original:

Seamaster 1000 from 1972-
166.0093 model. One-body "pilot" case. Crown at 9. Ploprof hands, dark blue dial, black bezel (unidirectional). 1002 or 1012 date movement. WR 1000m. Mesh 1247/237, remplacement 1162/172 or rubber 22mm.

"Modern" Seamasters

Seamaster 200m from 1991-94
368.1041, 2800.50 model. Mercedes or baton hands. 1111 date movement. WR 200m. Most models were quartz and smaller size.

"Bond" Seamasters from 1993-
Many models with all kind of size, colors and movements.
On the left: 2531.80 blue, steel, 2007.
On the right: 212.30.41.2001.003 black, steel, 2011.

"Blake" Seamaster from 1998-
Many models with all kind of size, colors and movements.
Left: 2231.50 titanium but black bezel, 2001
Right: 2231.80 titanium, blue dial, 2007