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As for tungsten...

It's heavy, much heavier than steel, and requires its own tooling, which is more expensive to produce than the tooling needed for steel.

And while it is much harder to scratch, it's also more brittle (hardness = brittleness), meaning it could be shattered, in theory, given enough force.

And, just as I do when we argue over ceramic, I'm providing a link to a google image search for "shattered tungsten", just to preempt anyone calling BS on me - shattered tungsten - Google Search.

Somewhere in my jumbled memory banks, I think there's also a nugget about not being able to brush tungsten, only polish it, but that may be something I imagined reading or hearing, not a real memory. I hate the idea of a polished bezel, even one that's supposedly impervious to scratches, especially if there's a chance that a hard enough impact could cause it to shatter.

We've been down this road before. The scratch-ability of steel is a by-product of its ductility, i.e, its ability to withstand abuse without breaking. I think the trade-off is a good one, as I think it's easier for anyone to live with a bezel that has a tiny scratch or dent than it is for anyone to live with one that's been chipped, or worse, shattered.

Prior to putting bezel inserts up for sale on demand, I did my level best to keep a record of people requesting inserts to replace damaged ones, and we always asked for photos showing the damage. Generally, people always volunteered information about how the damage occurred, and if not, we'd typically ask.

We didn't have too many people reporting serious damage. Most of the damage we saw was very minimal, in most cases something most people could easily live with, and yet was caused by fairly extreme abuse - things like falling out of a car onto the pavement. My Scorpene has flown off my wrist at least three times (yes, I was once that lazy about using thread locker). One of those times it went skidding across a patio of paver stones, yet it still looks brand new.

Just as it is with the Swiss brands spending a lot of money to convince people that "Swiss" = "Better", my observation is that a lot of effort has been put into making people think "Ceramic" / "Tungsten" / "Sapphire" / "904 Steel" / "Tegimented Submarine Steel" / "Ice-hardened high carbon steel" is better than "pedestrian" 316L stainless.

But, in my opinion, and based on all the objective data and information I can find, none of those materials offers up any significant benefit without also having some significant drawback, and thus just seems like a way for brands to charge customers more for something that sounds more "impressive" to people who never bother to think about it, much less actually do any research into it.

But, if "ceramic" or "sapphire" or any of the others was a better material than 316L stainless, all things considered, why don't the brands make the entire case and bracelet out of those materials, or if they do, why then would there be any value in adding surface-hardening measures? Why do we see pics of shattered ceramic or sapphire parts (including cases), but never see those pics of steel parts/cases?

If 316L is "surgical grade", meaning, good enough to be the material of choice for instruments used in life-and-death scenarios, it certainly seems to me that it's worth considering its merits for use in watch cases and other parts.

PS - to anyone thinking, "but what about titanium?" I just remembered this little gem, courtesy of horological_dicktionary on IG:

15370721


You guys know what would be awesome? If there was a readily-available, inexpensive material, which was more or less perfect for making watch cases and other parts, something that resisted corrosion, wasn't too brittle or too soft, and didn't require any special processes to make it more usable for that application.

Oh, wait, that's 316L stainless steel.

And y'all just don't appreciate how awesome it is.

[sigh]
 

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Looking at the insert I'm wondering if it's a laminate material w/ a scratch resistant face (sapphire) over a plastic (polycarbonate?) inner layer w/ the 'swirlies'.
 

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Finally got this guy back.
I like the bracelet but I liked the V1 too.
Definitely like the clasp so much better.
Interestingly I have the same number of links and exact same micro adjust hole on the clasp as I do on the subs.




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I just went to the Tag site, to see if I could figure out what those bezels are all about, but saw this pearl of completely unwarranted marketing hyperbole, vomited in my mouth, then ran screaming from the site...

15371249
 

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The internet is so bad here, it's forced my first double-post since the forum software switch.

And you know how I roll.

Double post.

Random pic.

15371253
 

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I just went to the Tag site, to see if I could figure out what those bezels are all about, but saw this pearl of completely unwarranted marketing hyperbole, vomited in my mouth, then ran screaming from the site...

View attachment 15371249
15371336
 

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What's the consensus on leather straps on divers? I'm not really a bracelet guy (and waiting for a watchgecko tropic to arrive) so thought I'd throw it on a taupe epsom leather strap and feel like it kinda works with the Barracuda


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What's the consensus on leather straps on divers? I'm not really a bracelet guy (and waiting for a watchgecko tropic to arrive) so thought I'd throw it on a taupe epsom leather strap and feel like it kinda works with the Barracuda


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I think anything goes and I think most people around here feel that way. A lot look good in photos I prefer bracelet, MN, rubber or nato but I do from time to time go leather.

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What's the consensus on leather straps on divers? I'm not really a bracelet guy (and waiting for a watchgecko tropic to arrive) so thought I'd throw it on a taupe epsom leather strap and feel like it kinda works with the Barracuda


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Acceptable. Hell, I've got a diver with OEM Italian leather.

15371438
 

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What's the consensus on leather straps on divers? I'm not really a bracelet guy (and waiting for a watchgecko tropic to arrive) so thought I'd throw it on a taupe epsom leather strap and feel like it kinda works with the Barracuda


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Cows are water proof.

Leather comes from cows.

I don't see a problem here.


Tapatalk is all natural. Wash in cold water and tumble dry on low heat. Some talk shrinking may occur.
 

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What's the consensus on leather straps on divers? I'm not really a bracelet guy (and waiting for a watchgecko tropic to arrive) so thought I'd throw it on a taupe epsom leather strap and feel like it kinda works with the Barracuda


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That's how I wear mine outside of summer. My D65 has the same WR and screw-down crown as a Rolex OP. If you consider them to both be "sport watches," leather should be suitable for both.

I also think it depends on the diver. Slim divers like the NTH Sub or D65, no problem. The more toolish and larger the design is though, the less leather tends to work. Azores or Antilles? Sure. DevilRay? Ehhh, I don't know about that. Same with other chunky tool divers like the Pelagos or a Sinn U1.

 

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I just went to the Tag site, to see if I could figure out what those bezels are all about, but saw this pearl of completely unwarranted marketing hyperbole, vomited in my mouth, then ran screaming from the site...

View attachment 15371249
Yah, gotta have that deep deep luxury prestige. Or, "Tag Heuer. How deep is your prestige, big guy?"
 

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What's the consensus on leather straps on divers? I'm not really a bracelet guy (and waiting for a watchgecko tropic to arrive) so thought I'd throw it on a taupe epsom leather strap and feel like it kinda works with the Barracuda


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As long as they are switched out when actually swimming/diving, it's all good. The psringbar holes in the lugs are there for a reason, after all :)
 

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Cows are water proof.

Leather comes from cows.

I don't see a problem here.


Tapatalk is all natural. Wash in cold water and tumble dry on low heat. Some talk shrinking may occur.
Every cow that has been exposed to water has died or is in the process of becoming dead.
 

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That's how I wear mine outside of summer. My D65 has the same WR and screw-down crown as a Rolex OP. If you consider them to both be "sport watches," leather should be suitable for both.

I also think it depends on the diver. Slim divers like the NTH Sub or D65, no problem. The more toolish and larger the design is though, the less leather tends to work. Azores or Antilles? Sure. DevilRay? Ehhh, I don't know about that. Same with other chunky tool divers like the Pelagos or a Sinn U1.

Great capture of the devil Ray. Very nice shot.

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