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Tough Solar Hydro Mod Method

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54K views 158 replies 47 participants last post by  brandon\  
T
#1 · (Edited)
Recently I decided to attempt an upgrade on my Tough Solar G-SHOCK watches through hydro modification. There are a number of existing hydro mod threads on F17 and various methods to accomplish this mod. I will breakdown the method I used, which was heavily influenced by kevio. So far, the 4 watches I hydro modded have not leaked at all. To my eye the LCD clarity and contrast is significantly enhanced. The numerals are much darker, especially in low light.

I have successfully performed this modification on the following models:
1. GW-M5600
2. GW-6900
3. GW-B5600BC-1B
4. GW-5000

I'll do my best to breakdown the hydro mod execution through step-by-step explanations including pictures of the aforementioned models. This particular hydro mod method does not include a bubble.

I have a random smattering of pics of each of my hydro mods because the mod is a messy endeavor. So taking pics with my iPhone while performing the mod was a random affair. I will include links to my flickr albums for each of the respective hydro mods at the bottom of this post. Hopefully you will find some cohesion in the following description of this mod:

Open the caseback and remove the module


Fill the case about halfway with silicone oil


I use this 100 cSt silicone oil


Use a spudger tool to push all the bubbles out from under the solar panel. I used two spudger tools, one to push the bubbles out and another to remove the bubbles at the top of the oil surface.


Once all the bubbles are gone, insert the module and repeat the process. Seat + align the module and make sure the button pushers are all squared away. Add more oil to cover the module completely. Then work on getting all the bubbles out by depressing the module with the spudgers. This process takes some time and patience, but it is worth it to remove all the bubbles.


Place and align the cushion/spacer on top of the module and add more oil. In this pic the spacer is plastic. It is the same in the GW-6900. However, in the GW-M5600 and GW-B5600, the cushion/spacer is rubber. I will address this difference after the hydro mod breakdown.


Same procedure. Spudger the bubbles out. Add more oil. Next step is to apply the caseback and seal the watch. Before doing that, seat the o-ring and add some oil to the reservoir area of the caseback. Some of the oil in the caseback will inevitably run off the caseback when it is turned over to apply to the watch case. That is fine and likely unavoidable. The key is to fill the watch case and caseback with as much oil as possible so there are minimal pockets of unused space once the watch is sealed. For the GW-5000 I finger tightened the screwback caseback until it was relatively tightened. Then I cleaned the caseback with a paper towel and tightened it to completion with a jaxa tool.


The whole process is messy at times. I used a paper plate with a paper towel on it to soak up the oil that ran over the watch case throughout the mod. All four of the hydro modded watches were free of bubbles and are leak free to date. For more views of each of the watches before and after the hydro mod, feel free to peruse the following flickr albums:

GW-M5600
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmBHDrss
GW-B5600BC-1B
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmaKmP7t
GW-5000
https://flic.kr/s/aHskPFWPgM

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Quite a bit of concern has been discussed on F17 about how the rubber version of the rear cushion/spacer absorbs the silicone oil. The rubber cushion/spacer then expands and creates problems with how the o-ring and caseback seal the watch case. I was aware of this phenomenon when I began the hydro mod and closely monitored both watches for about a week after the mod. Some advice that kevio offered to me is to leave the resin bezel and strap off of the watch for a few days after the hydro mod so one can examine how well the watch is taking to the hydro mod. Luckily, neither of my watches with the rubber cushion leaked and continue to be sealed completely. This seems to be true with solar + atomic watches, whereas models with the rubber cushion in the DW-5600 series seem to be problematic. I did take great care to seat the o-ring as I sealed the caseback on all of these hydro mods.
--------------------

I am quite happy with how the watches turned out after hydro modding. All of the watches are significantly enhanced in my opinion, specifically when viewing the clarity and contrast of various properties of the LCD. Layers within the LCD seem to be exaggerated, and numerals are darker when viewed in any environment (low light and bright light). The least upgraded watch is the GW-B5600BC-1B. In hindsight I would not hydro mod this watch since the solar panel is cutout around the area of the LCD that can be viewed. As a result, the numerals of the GW-B5600BC-1B are not really changed at all, especially compared to the dramatic difference the GW-M5600, GW-6900, and GW-5000 numerals show. Despite that, the solar panel of the GW-B5600BC-1B looks pretty cool hydro modded so I am fine with it. I am not going to bother with undoing the GW-B5600BC-1B hydro modification.

Hope this is helpful to anyone considering a hydro mod on a GW-M56XX, GW-69XX, or GW-5000.

Some pics:

Low light comparison of hydro modded GW-M5600 on the left and OE GW-M5610 on the right:


GW-6900 hydro modded


OE GW-5000 LCD on left, hydro modded GW-5000 on right


GW-B5600BC-1B hydro modded
 
#5 ·
These watches all look great Tommy! Thanks for the shout out and really happy that I was able to give you some assistance in this mod. Like you mentioned, the main point of this mod is to increase the legibility on solar watches. The main reason why many of these solar squares have poor contrast is because of the glass solar panel. The additional glass/air interfaces cause light to scatter, reducing contrast. The index of refraction of oil is closer to glass than air, allowing contrast to remain high.

I have to thank you too Tommy, as seeing your GW5000 this past weekend and your success with hydro modding this watch, gave me courage to finally hydro mod my GW5000. I'd been putting it off due to concerns with being able to get the caseback screwed back on easily. I finally took the plunge and modded my GW5000. I used the same method of filling the caseback with oil before attaching to the case. Loving this watch even more now, whereas I previously was always disappointed with the display contrast compared to my hydro modded GW-S5600.

 
K
#15 ·
Great mod, really nice writeup, thanks for posting it. I always wanted to try this but have always chickened out. A couple of notes:

1. This has been discussed quite a bit, but Sinn originally used silicone-based oil in their watches which eventually turned the hands and markers brown. I had one of those watches and it was not a very attractive shade of brown. Sinn eventually changed to a Teflon-based oil which does not react the same way. I don't know if a silicone oil will react with the writing, markers or luminous elements (if present) inside a Casio's case. I think someone here mentioned that shock oil for RC cars is Teflon based and can be had in various weights, if you don't want to go through the cost or trouble of tracking down the real-deal 3M Fluorinert.
2. I like your method of filling the case though others have had success with immersing the entire watch head in oil to make sure that there are no bubbles. Might make more of a mess though I assume that you still had some cleaning to do when done.

Thanks again for sharing.
 
G
#28 ·
1. Just curious on the 3M Flourinert - I followed some posts here referencing 3M FC-770... just checked it out and it seems it'll cost me an arm and a leg...

Any leads on other Flourinert variants, such as FC-40, if it's also useable?

2. If using Teflon RC Shock Oil, will 100cst also be good?
 
T
#16 ·
@Klesk,
Thank you for the positive feedback about the post. Much appreciated.

Your point #1:
I hope that the silicone oil does not discolor the watch LCD in any way. Luckily, there aren’t any moving parts inside the watch that could become stained like in analog watches. Something to monitor though, especially over time. Thanks for the heads up.

Your point #2:
I chose to fill the case with the silicone oil in stages rather than full submersion because the trickiest part of this particular hydro mod was getting the bubbles out from in between the crystal glass and the solar panel. Perhaps full submersion of the case would accomplish this better, but dispersing the bubbles from between those layers took a lot of consistent pressure and direction from the spudger tools. I was able to keep the case center steady since it was not submerged and was also able to pick it up to view the front of the crystal to check if all the bubbles were out.
A case could certainly be made for any of the various hydro mod methods (heating the silicone oil, using a vacuum, full submersion, etc.).
This method is simple, effective, and did not make a huge mess and has thus far yielded decent results. Hopefully the results stay as such.
 
T
#18 ·
The majority of the hydro mods threads I researched had users that reported the auto EL function would be disabled by hydro modding the watch. I do not use auto EL so I had no issue with that. However, I just checked all four of my hydro modded watches and here are my findings:

-- GW-M5600 -- auto EL functioning properly
-- GW-6900 -- auto EL functioning properly
-- GW-5000 -- auto EL functioning properly
-- GW-B5600BC-1B -- auto LED not working properly

I have no idea why the auto EL works for the three I have. Perhaps the 100 cSt silicone oil is thin enough to allow for the auto EL actuator to move freely in order to activate the light. This is beyond my scope of knowledge as auto EL is something I have not researched. Hope this helps.
 
#25 ·
Many thanks Man Tom,for this great tutorial.I hydro modded my worst negative display:the gwx-5600c-4jf.Result is very good for me and i just followed all what you wrote.I used a toothpick to chase the bubble and press the glass.Sound is very low and the auto led is not working anymore,but that's not an issue for me : )

before:

After:





The bottle (100 cSt) is not empty yet so sure,i ll try on other G's,now!
 
#29 ·
Fabulous thread. I remember a decade ago when I first joined this forum, every other thread was about Hydro modding. I was always put off doing it though because everyone at the time said it negates the EL function as the fluidity of the oil prevented the tile sensor from working. Has oil technology advanced any so that the sensor can now work with this mod?
 
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#30 · (Edited)
Good question, I'm also curious if this still works. Also if it is possible that the light function still works.

And does this mod works on a GW-9400? Is the sensor still working after filling it with oil?
 
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G
#31 ·
Finally took the plunge and hydro modded my GW-5000 today!

Thanks to tommy.arashikage and kevio for giving me the inspiration!

The only thing different on my procedure was the use of a disposable container to control the oily mess as I went to re-assemble. I also made use of a disposable stirrer to push the bubbles out 【btw, you need a bit of 'delicate force' pushing the bubbles out of the solar panel/crystal sandwhich area, merely 'sweeping' for the bubble won't do as it's glass (solar panel) on glass (crystal)】.

Auto-EL seems not working for me, but that's fine as I have no use for it. But I wonder... is the silicone oil I used heavier than advertised? (PMX-200, 100cSt, high purity grade).

Pics here...
 

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