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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Looking at the Ulysse Nardin Classico. Any owners here who can comment on this timepiece? It would be much appreciated as can’t find a lot of info here.
 

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What happened to the first post? I like UN and have a couple of them "on my radar" so to speak... was there a question?
 

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That's a good question. It was pretty much "why don't we talk about UN" and perhaps Watchbreath's answer was taken as dismissive?
 

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I’m in the market for a gmt and perpetual. Think UN is the only one that makes a watch that features both.
 

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These are the ones I've been looking out for:

15646942
15646948



They're a little difficult to find though... I tried a blue one on once, but didn't buy it. I kind of regret it.

I'd also like to pick up one of these, though it's further down the list:

15646951
 

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UN's also done enamel over guilloche, and some porcelain dials. I also like their maritime-themed enamel dials, but they've never felt right for this desert rat.

A UN Classico would be on the list if I came into a sudden, substantial windfall...not alone, but up there with a Tonda 1950 and Senator. AND, if I wanted to go for a gold case, the gold Classicos are very nicely thought out IMO, without blowing the price through the ceiling.
 

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UN's also done enamel over guilloche, and some porcelain dials. I also like their maritime-themed enamel dials, but they've never felt right for this desert rat.

A UN Classico would be on the list if I came into a sudden, substantial windfall...not alone, but up there with a Tonda 1950 and Senator. AND, if I wanted to go for a gold case, the gold Classicos are very nicely thought out IMO, without blowing the price through the ceiling.
Oh yeah... guilloche enamel... forgot about that:

15647036
 
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Yep, that one. It has one major flaw...enamel should never, ever, IMO have a date window. BUT, that version is preferable to the center-seconds version; the date at 3 is too far from the edge for my taste. That means: use a smaller case.

The other obstacle is, my gosh, there's a collection of gorgeous blue dials. The Tonda 1950 meteoriie Abyss Blue, the GS Elegance hand wound (SBGW259), the steel Omega De Ville Tresor, and the blue-dial version of the Eichi II. There's no way I'll ever be able to afford the Eichi or Tonda meteorite, tho.
 

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...enamel should never, ever, IMO have a date window...
Are you OK with date windows in other dials? And if so, why not enamel?
 

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It’s such a cool brand! Ingenious movements, incredibly innovative in materials and movement technicalities, there’s a lot to love. A lot of their designs however are very exuberant and it’s not always my cup of tea. But I’d love to get a sporty piece from them, and some of the Freak models are grail-worthy.
Definitely a “sometime when the opportunity comes” brand to have for me.
 

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Are you OK with date windows in other dials? And if so, why not enamel?
Unless it's a perpetual calendar AND on quartz (so the date is, ya know...RIGHT...) I prefer no date. That said, I have numerous watches with a date; it's not a disqualifier per se. And some work fine.

With enamel specifically...enamel dials are by definition thick, so the hole is VERY noticeable. And it disrupts the dial flow, which is much of the point with high-end dials of any stripe...porcelain, enamel, aventurine, meteorite, semiprecious stone. The more character the dial has, the more jarring the bloody date window is.

For me, the perfect example would be the Breguet 7147 and 5177. The 7147 might be my dead solid perfect formal-dress watch, altho the original Eichi II would also be a contender. The 5177 has center seconds, which knocks off a point or two for a formal-dress watch...but it's got a date window, and that for me just doesn't work.
 

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Personally I've snobbishly ignored the Classico line as they tended to be plain, overly expensive ETA 2892 based watches, a bit like the IWC Portofino series. But then I got to try on the model you've posted, and also UN has started putting in-house movements which in my book has made the watches more interesting. Some special editions and cloisonné dial versions also seem worthwhile.
 

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With enamel specifically...enamel dials are by definition thick, so the hole is VERY noticeable. And it disrupts the dial flow, which is much of the point with high-end dials of any stripe...porcelain, enamel, aventurine, meteorite, semiprecious stone. The more character the dial has, the more jarring the bloody date window is.
I do know what you mean, however I went to the boutique in NY to try it on and the workmanship on the dial is at such a high level that you don't see the enamel flow around the hole. It's all very neat and discreet, it's a very small date window. On the other hand I found the dial as a whole was a bit too flashy for me. UNs are nice watches, but they can be quirky and large. Absolutely try before you buy.
 

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I do know what you mean, however I went to the boutique in NY to try it on and the workmanship on the dial is at such a high level that you don't see the enamel flow around the hole. It's all very neat and discreet, it's a very small date window. On the other hand I found the dial as a whole was a bit too flashy for me. UNs are nice watches, but they can be quirky and large. Absolutely try before you buy.
Good to hear. I also like the design aspect of circle in circle in circle in circle, and the appearance of the enamel on guilloche is striking. I also suspect the enamel is actually quite thin, in order to achieve that look...that's assuming the pics are accurate. Millecron (used to be Atelier Millesime) does something similar. That may well help reduce the overall dial thickness and thus the depth of the hole. I can see the point about the effective size, tho, and that many are...not to everyone's taste, or size. There are brands where I could fairly happily build an entire collection...Omega and Seiko/GS would be the top 2. There are other brands where there's only one line I like...the more basic Hublot Big Bangs are actually not bad, the Bvlgari Octo line (but not the Roma, don't like them at all) is amazing but everything else is <unprintable expression of disgust>. The B&R V1-92 comes close to being the perfect GADA, and the street price is reasonable. The square models...ugh. TOOOO BIG and do nothing for me, AND horrifically overpriced in my book.

OP, we forgive you. :) But I think pallet hit the nail on the head. So many of the UNs are very much an acquired taste that it damps the discussion of the brand overall. The Freaks draw the blogs' interest but those are for technogeek horoextremist types. And this is a Defy Lab fanboi saying that. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I do know what you mean, however I went to the boutique in NY to try it on and the workmanship on the dial is at such a high level that you don't see the enamel flow around the hole. It's all very neat and discreet, it's a very small date window. On the other hand I found the dial as a whole was a bit too flashy for me. UNs are nice watches, but they can be quirky and large. Absolutely try before you buy.
I must admit, large and flashy is maybe not for me but they seem great quality watches. I like the look of the Paul David Nardin watch though, vintage looks and 39mm case. Would love to try before buying but there is a lack of UK dealers for UN.
 
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