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Which watch should I choose?

  • Ulysse Nardin Classico Automatic 8152-111-2/5GF

    Votes: 3 12.0%
  • Girard Perregaux 1966 Small Seconds 49534-52-711-BK6A

    Votes: 22 88.0%

  • Total voters
    25
  • Poll closed .
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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking at two watches with similar dials (enamel), size (40mm) and general appearance (rose gold case, Arabic Letters). From an aesthetic point of view, I somewhat prefer the classic UN three-hand dial vs. the GP small seconds sub-dial. UN is somewhat less expensive, but has a date function which I don't need. The GP has no date and a better movement. Unsure about the overall quality as I have not purchased many of either brand in the past.

Thoughts and comments?

cc610b8c-f04c-45a5-94d9-1d4d028bc046.jpg

Ulysse Nardin Classico Automatic 8152-111-2/5GF, $12,000

GP 1966 Small Seconds - 2.jpg

Girard Perregaux 1966 Small Seconds 49534-52-711-BK6A, +/- $18,000
 

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I like the UN's face better, but I like the GP watch better. Hard choice because I could very easily see myself wearing either watch; glad it's not one I have to make.

Is the GP an older model? I thought they'd gone to markers rather than numerals for their 1966 line of watches.

I think, though that I would probably buy the GP mostly because UN makes entertaining and unusual looking watches, watches that don't look like the Breguet Classique 5177, which is priced comparably to the GP rather than the UN. (pic below) The Breguet is a bit smaller than the UN at 38mm, but the coin edge and those Breguet hands are sweeet.



Unlike UN, GP is all about traditional, no matter which dress watch line one considers from them. The other thing I like about GP's watches is that their movements are pretty straightforward and any master watchmaker should be able to handle service. In fairness, I don't know the movement on the UN you specified. It's quite possible the same is true.

All the same, of the two you suggested, I prefer the GP. It's very good looking and represents exactly what GP does and does well.

All the best.
 

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Assuming that UN uses modified ETA for a movement, I would opt for the GP. In my opinion, if you spend this much jack, you deserve something more than modified ETA.

While they don't get as much hype as some other top brands, GP delivers on all the biggies: history, manufacture movements, precious metals, and complications. Arguably, GP merits more consideration as the top brand than it really gets...
 

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Quite ignorant about the movements but from a looks perspective I'd buy the GP, just looks cleaner and more balanced without the date aperture to my eye . . . .
 

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Slight edge to the GP for the small seconds and I like that it does not have the date. Generally l am a fan of UN and I prefer that manufacturer over GP. Tough call.

I would probably go with the GP, although at that price I would check out similar pieces from the competing brands like JLC, Breguet, etc.
 

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I am a keen UN fan but in this case choice is tought sinc both look sweet.

On the apperance side there is no big difference. I like to have a date on my watches so here UN is a winner. Since for you it is not that crucial I would really have hard time picking one as GP small second in attractive. Have you seen and tried both in person ?

On the movement side UN-815 is an ETA 2892-A2 based movement. Correct me if I am wrong. Quite easy to service. Do not know about GP movement tony20009 mentioned above that it is also easy serviceable. I read in the past that GP provides service not of the best qulity. Perhaps somebody here has up to date experience.

On the price side additional 6000 usd is a lot for a GP which does not differ that much. If I had that much available I would also consider pieces from more renowned like Breguet, JLC, etc. I guess they preserve value better if you ever consider fliping it.

If you want just one watch and have this much to spend (or can even add a few bucks) consider getting something special from well established brands.
If not get the UN and the money left you can earmark for another decent watch.
 

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I am a keen UN fan but in this case choice is tought sinc both look sweet.

On the apperance side there is no big difference. I like to have a date on my watches so here UN is a winner. Since for you it is not that crucial I would really have hard time picking one as GP small second in attractive. Have you seen and tried both in person ?

On the movement side UN-815 is an ETA 2892-A2 based movement. Correct me if I am wrong. Quite easy to service. Do not know about GP movement tony20009 mentioned above that it is also easy serviceable. I read in the past that GP provides service not of the best qulity. Perhaps somebody here has up to date experience.

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I'd heard and read of GP's service too. It's why I specifically mentioned going local on the servicing end...save some cash, save some time and avoid the PITA.

I had a colleague a couple years ask me about a GP and in light of that I called a few watchmakers -- just random ones at stores I found on the Internet along with my own watch guy -- to ask about servicing GP's. They all said the same thing: GP, not a problem on their uncomplicated movements. One guy said he was comfortable and had experience with those "bridge" watches GP have, but the rest said they'd not ever come across one. I didn't ask them for comments re: GP's service organization, but unless something really breaks, and that's very unlikely, one need not ever deal with them.

All the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I like the UN's face better, but I like the GP watch better. Hard choice because I could very easily see myself wearing either watch; glad it's not one I have to make.

Is the GP an older model? I thought they'd gone to markers rather than numerals for their 1966 line of watches.

I think, though that I would probably buy the GP mostly because UN makes entertaining and unusual looking watches, watches that don't look like the Breguet Classique 5177, which is priced comparably to the GP rather than the UN. (pic below) The Breguet is a bit smaller than the UN at 38mm, but the coin edge and those Breguet hands are sweeet.



Unlike UN, GP is all about traditional, no matter which dress watch line one considers from them. The other thing I like about GP's watches is that their movements are pretty straightforward and any master watchmaker should be able to handle service. In fairness, I don't know the movement on the UN you specified. It's quite possible the same is true.

All the same, of the two you suggested, I prefer the GP. It's very good looking and represents exactly what GP does and does well.

All the best.
Yes, GP is an older model but still available. I think my price estimate might actually be high given that fact, but wont know till I get closer to a deal.
I looked hard at the Breguet, but 38mm is just a tad too small. But those blue hands and case are awesome...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am a keen UN fan but in this case choice is tought sinc both look sweet.

On the apperance side there is no big difference. I like to have a date on my watches so here UN is a winner. Since for you it is not that crucial I would really have hard time picking one as GP small second in attractive. Have you seen and tried both in person ?

On the movement side UN-815 is an ETA 2892-A2 based movement. Correct me if I am wrong. Quite easy to service. Do not know about GP movement tony20009 mentioned above that it is also easy serviceable. I read in the past that GP provides service not of the best qulity. Perhaps somebody here has up to date experience.

On the price side additional 6000 usd is a lot for a GP which does not differ that much. If I had that much available I would also consider pieces from more renowned like Breguet, JLC, etc. I guess they preserve value better if you ever consider fliping it.

If you want just one watch and have this much to spend (or can even add a few bucks) consider getting something special from well established brands.
If not get the UN and the money left you can earmark for another decent watch.
I think I am leaning towards the GP as well. I have seen and tried-on both, the UN most recently in the Paris Boutique (its a limited edition watch).
Generally speaking, I think the lack of a date and an in-house movement is probably the deciding factor for the GP. As with all GP's, discounting is rampant and I think my final price might be closer to the UN.
By now you would think UN would put one of their in-house movements in a limited edition rose gold dress watch with enamel dial. Regardless of easy-service factor, it seems a bit odd they would stick a modified ETA 2892 in this watch.

Thanks to everyone for comments and suggestions.
 

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The GP is beautiful and would get my vote. I like how balanced the dial is and the red marker on the small seconds is a real winner for me.

The UN pales in every aspect when comparing it to the Breguet Classique (which is why I wouldn't get the UN). I'm not sure if you have tried on the Breguet but I can assure you it looks and wears bigger than 38mm. This is probably because the vast majority of the width is taken by the striking enamel dial with a very slim casing - making the watch just look a lot bigger than it actually is.
 

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I just loooooooooove Breguet numerals. And blue hands! Are you me?

I'd pick the GP (again, I've heard a few less than nice stories about GP servicing here in the UK, but that's never put me off I'm afraid), because I love the small seconds, and the little dash of red.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The GP is beautiful and would get my vote. I like how balanced the dial is and the red marker on the small seconds is a real winner for me.

The UN pales in every aspect when comparing it to the Breguet Classique (which is why I wouldn't get the UN). I'm not sure if you have tried on the Breguet but I can assure you it looks and wears bigger than 38mm. This is probably because the vast majority of the width is taken by the striking enamel dial with a very slim casing - making the watch just look a lot bigger than it actually is.
I have not seen the Breguet Classique 5177BA in person yet. We dont have a Breguet dealer in Austin (or GP or UN for that matter), so a trip to Dallas is probably in order for a hands-on look. Not opposed to a 38mm watch per se, its just that most look too small when tried-on.
 

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The GP is beautiful and would get my vote. I like how balanced the dial is and the red marker on the small seconds is a real winner for me.

The UN pales in every aspect when comparing it to the Breguet Classique (which is why I wouldn't get the UN). I'm not sure if you have tried on the Breguet but I can assure you it looks and wears bigger than 38mm. This is probably because the vast majority of the width is taken by the striking enamel dial with a very slim casing - making the watch just look a lot bigger than it actually is.
That is very true. I have Zenith Chronomaster. The case is 40 mm but dial is only 32 mm which gives an impression of a much smaller watch than it really is. In my opinion the additon factors which impacts how the watch wears is its thicknes and weight. I noticed that thiner and lighter watches tend to feel smaller on your wrist even thoug their cases are of the same size. Perhaps psychology plays here.
 

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I would pick the GP, but for that price you could get a JLC MUT which would be superior in design, movement and most likely build quality (debateable?)

Grande Master Ultra Thin {ref.135.24.20} - 40mm


c. See watermark

Master Ultra Thin Jubilee {ref.129.65.20} - 39mm


c. Hodinkee

Master Ultra Thin {ref.133.84.21} - 41mm


c. amanico on PuristSPro

I only listed some of the larger sized references since you stated the 38mm Breguet was too small for your tastes. The Master Ultra Thin Moon {ref.136.84.20 [SS] / ref.136.25.20 [18kt RG]} is 39mm, if you like moonphase watches. It does appear to be a popular complication and reference...
 

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I like the GP more. Its hard to gk another way when faced with one of the most classic dress watch brands to ever hit the watch market. Prestige, heritage and looks..

I vote GP and PM me if you want info on a reputable AD in the US.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would pick the GP, but for that price you could get a JLC MUT which would be superior in design, movement and most likely build quality (debateable?)

Grande Master Ultra Thin {ref.135.24.20} - 40mm


c. See watermark

Master Ultra Thin Jubilee {ref.129.65.20} - 39mm


c. Hodinkee

Master Ultra Thin {ref.133.84.21} - 41mm


c. amanico on PuristSPro

I only listed some of the larger sized references since you stated the 38mm Breguet was too small for your tastes. The Master Ultra Thin Moon {ref.136.84.20 [SS] / ref.136.25.20 [18kt RG]} is 39mm, if you like moonphase watches. It does appear to be a popular complication and reference...
I am a big fan of JLC and already own a Master Ultra-thin (Ref 1338421 at 41mm). I also think both the Master Ultra-Thin 1907 (ref 1292520) or the above Jubilee are both excellent watches for the money. That said, all three don't have Arabic numbers which is something I am shooting for in this particular purchase.
 

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I am a big fan of JLC and already own a Master Ultra-thin (Ref 1338421 at 41mm). I also think both the Master Ultra-Thin 1907 (ref 1292520) or the above Jubilee are both excellent watches for the money. That said, all three don't have Arabic numbers which is something I am shooting for in this particular purchase.
Well, if you liked that Breguet posted earlier, it is available in a 40mm case size, although it has a subsidiary seconds dial.



ref.5140BA/29/9W6 [18kt YG] / ref.5140BB/29/9W6 [18kt WG] - enamel dial

I assume you want a full set of arabic numerals, yes? If you're okay with 3/6/9/12, how about the Chopard LUC


 
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