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Discussion Starter #1
I like to do random projects and decided to pick up a vintage Ball to partially restore. Figured I'd post here to get some advice, knowledge and suggestions from time to time, and keep track of progress.

I have what I believe to be a Trainmaster model, correct me if I'm wrong. My doubts come from the "trainmaster" label not being present on the dial, but everything else seems identical to others I've seen with it.

Case is 10Kt. GF and is a worn away in spots (end corners of lugs, edge of case @12&6, caseback notch), there is green oxidation in some areas, and the dial seems to be a little "bubbled" (hard to see in pics) - so I was relieved when I opened the back and the movement was clean!

First step I'm going to take is clean and polish the steel dust cover and what appears to be brass & gold caseback (extremely light surface finishing and polishing).

In the meantime, would anyone be able to tell me how to remove the stem from this movement? Google search yielded no results. There isn't an obvious push button like on the ST16, so I'm assuming it's one of the 3 local screws and I'm not up for playing trial and error.

View attachment IMG_20150621_231019892.jpg View attachment IMG_20150621_230820969.jpg
 

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See the little screw next to the stem?

What are you planning to do, polish the case? If so, tread lightly to keep from polishing completely through the gold plate!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
See the little screw next to the stem?

What are you planning to do, polish the case? If so, tread lightly to keep from polishing completely through the gold plate!
Thanks, BShaw, I appreciate it! Stem popped right out!

It's gold filled, so I had a little more wiggle room for error but it wasn't needed. I used two grades of polishing paper and lots of time to even out any ridges from light surface scratches and oxidation. I wasn't trying to get it to look like new, just cleaned up a little. I was able to get rid of probably only about 75% of the green corrosion. I then used a low-power rotary tool and some rogue to give it the final shine. Did all of that on the crystal too which is as clear as day now. I used a brass wire wheel for the steal dust cover inside since there was some very small amounts of surface rust. Everything came out great so far! I'll try to post some pictures later.

The only causality thus far is (egad) the dial, but it'll be in recovery soon enough. I'm confident I can get it back to the way it was, if not a little better. In my previous post I mentioned the dial had some bubbling on it. When I removed the stem and took out the movement my finger tip swiped the "9" and I felt something sticky. I don't know how or why but the black surface bubbling is still wet/viscous and it smeared onto the white a little. I plan on tackling that this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
So it's been a while since I was able to make some progress updates. Unfortunately the original dial was unsalvageable (IMO) and luckily I was able to pick up an original replacement from the same model and era on the bay. I removed the movement, removed the hands and gave them a light cleaning (I didn't do so originally for fear of further messing up the dial) and figured out how to remove the dial from the plate and swap out (smalls screws at on the side of the movement at the 4 and 10 o'clock positions). Perfect fit and replacement! Since everything was apart I also decided to throw the case parts into an ultrasonic cleaner with some Liquinox for about an hour. There is no longer any corrosion, anywhere. Gave it one last polish and boom:

BallFront.jpg

Last thing I need is a 17mm strap. Does anyone know what the original style was that the 50's Trainmasters sold with (meaning color, material, texture, etc)? I'd like to go one of two ways: use a strap as close to the original as possible, or if I can't come across that information; go with a black leather Bund style strap. I know that style is completely different; however, the case back on these older models appear to have some kind of "vent" holes with appear to be factory (correct me if I'm wrong about that) in the case back. If I can't go close to original, I'd like to have something that would prevent sweat and moisture from getting in while wearing it. any and all questions and comments welcome!
 
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